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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I discovered the source of my leak this weekend while changing my oil. It looks like it is leaking from between the upper and lower block halfs (just above the oil pan).

I am assuming that it would be a pretty involved to fix the leak. Has anyone attempted or had this problem?
 

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Cake monster
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I discovered the source of my leak this weekend while changing my oil. It looks like it is leaking from between the upper and lower block halfs (just above the oil pan).

I am assuming that it would be a pretty involved to fix the leak. Has anyone attempted or had this problem?
I'm a little confused, so please forgive my ignorance.

It's leaking from the upper and lower halves of the block? Is there a seal around where you're talking about? Are you talking about the seal between the head and block? Where physically on the engine is the leak? Front, back, left or right?

Is it possible that you could post a picture of it, or find a picture of a duratec online and pinpoint the location on the block? There's plenty of front engine pics online for it.
 

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It's a two part block, sealed at the factory with permatex, no gasket. Unfortunately it can only be disassembled upon pulling the engine. I would live with the leak, it's just too hard to isolate anything in that area. Could be leaking from anywhere, really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The Duratec uses a integrated main cap, stud girdle, and the traditional upper 1/2 of the oil pan where the spinning crank is. The oil pan is barely deep enough to old the 5 qts of oil.

The leak appears to be on the side closest to the radiator. I think i will switch to high mileage oil and to 10w30.
 

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A high mileage oil will not help as there is nothing to swell up to stop the leak. You just have to live with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
is there pressure at the split?
I was thinking of RTVing on the outside of the block.
 

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There would be crankcase pressure. How's the PCV system working?

If I would ever to try and seal something from the outside in like circumstance I would use some stretchy silicon fusion tape used for sealing underground electrical splices. Most large hardware stores should have it in the electrical section. It has to be slightly stretched when applied.

But that is a seal fix destine to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did have a to replace the PVC elbow not that long ago, I wounder if i had a build up of pressure while the elbow was collapsed. I think I might replace the PVC valve now. While everything is apart it would be a good time to replace the last of the old rubber vac hoses and gound cable.
 
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