Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

Did you find this video helpful?

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently replaced the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) on my 99 Duratec 3.0L and I recorded a brief video on how I did it and uploaded it to my YouTube channel to help others.
You guys came through for me when I posted the symptoms and you were right on as far as the cause.
I just wanted to give back to the forum in thanks...
Here's the video:

I have other Taurus repair vids on my channel too if you need some visual repair advice on other problems....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
547 Posts
All this shows is the location.Not how you managed to remove it in such tight quarters.That's what I need to know cause mine is glitching every now and then.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,415 Posts
For the low coolant light...it's the coolant tank. It either needs to be cleaned out or replaced. or you can unplug the sensor under the tank. There is a float sensor in the tank that gets sticky with age.

But nice job on the repair! Pretty rewarding when all you are out is the cost of the part.

But yes, do tell...how did you remove it!? Any post I've read about VSS removal involves it coming out as a two piece unit (parts breaking/snapping off inside).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Thanks! I had so much trouble trying to find mine. I only have 2 ramps, so I was in a real tight squeeze trying to find that sensor. I never did find it, but the problem fixed itself. At least now, I know it's behind a heat shield! That information would have helped haha.

Please keep making more Taurus videos!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All this shows is the location.Not how you managed to remove it in such tight quarters.That's what I need to know cause mine is glitching every now and then.
I used a large screwdriver to push the insulator up off the sensor. It seems to have a platic or hard cardboard shell but it is kinda brittle so use caution not to rip it.

Using two fingers, I eased the short 10mm wrench, box end, up into the opening and "jiggled" it onto the head of the bolt. I was then able to push with two fingers on the wrench and used the converter brace as leverage for the back of my hand. Once it broke free it was just a matter of repositioning the wrench over and over until the bolt was free enough to unscrew between my index and middle fingers. It was awkward at best and a good workout for my fingers for sure! I was only able to turn the wrench less than 1/8 turn each time.

I removed the bolt and then jammed my hand up in there and wiggled the sensor out of the cavity. It came out with no problems even after being in there 197,000 miles. Once removed, I lowered it down and then unplugged the connector where I could reach it.

I then cleaned the mounting hole and area and then coated the sensor body and rubber o-ring with trans fluid that I got by dipping my finger in the sensor hole. I wiggled the sensor into place, had to twist it a little to get the gears to mesh and line up. I then positioned the lock tab and was able to start the bolt with my thumb and finger. I used the same wrench procedure to tighten it down. I then plugged in the connector and slid the insulator down over the sensor and thats it.

It actually was easier to put the new one in than it was to remove the bad one. Most likely because I was oriented to the space by that point. It could be done from up top but working blind would be very difficult and cramped. Having two people, one up top with a long extension and one under the car to guide it onto the bolt head would be optimal in my opinion. It is certainly in a tight cramped, very limited access area and I can see why the manual says remove the exhaust to get to it!!

Hopes this helps clarify better? If needed, I will jack the car back up and take pictures of the wrench on the bolt if you need to see it for yourself.

Take Care
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks! I had so much trouble trying to find mine. I only have 2 ramps, so I was in a real tight squeeze trying to find that sensor. I never did find it, but the problem fixed itself. At least now, I know it's behind a heat shield! That information would have helped haha.

Please keep making more Taurus videos!
Your welcome. i have more Taurus repair vids on my youtube channel, check them out?
YouTube - AllThingzVideo's Channel

Regards...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
About to do this myself and have the same part..The one with the white cap on top instead of the clip the cable in type.Now since I'm not sure,I know the electric part goes to the plug but what about the other round part next to it.Does a cable go in the or am I assuming when the say electric they mean a plug in only type and not refering to the dash is electric or not. Any help would be appreciated. Haven't posted in a while cause let's face it.Seems everythings been covered quite well here.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top