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I have a 1998 Ford Taurus SE with the 3.0L Duratec DOHC. The Crank pulley has crapped out on me and the outer ring is slipping against the inner pulley. I know that this is a common problem after having the AC compressor seize (which I had replaced in the fall of 2009). I have read through the other forms and bought the factory service manual to make sure that I know what I am getting into before I take off the pulley. This has still left me with some questions:

1. Where do you actually get the "flywheel holding tool 303-544" ? I have not been able to find it anywhere online. I think it is a rotunda tool. (Also if you are in the Indianapolis area and want to lend or sell it, that would work)

2. The crank pulleys I have found online do not look like the one on my car, but I read somewhere that they were switched to a bracket less design. I was thinking about buying this one, because it is the only one I can find online: Dorman/Harmonic Balancer (594-050) | 1998 Ford Taurus 6 Cylinders S 3.0L EFI DOHC | AutoZone.com

Do these pulleys seem to work and last? Right now my car needs to be rev'd for the belt to turn.

3. I can replace the crank pulley without replacing the harmonic balancer right?

4. Is there anywhere to buy good OEM parts? I have looked online and not find much luck.

Any other advice from people who have had the same problem would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your time and help.
 

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The tool inserts into the area where the torque converter inspection shield is (plastic). Bolts in and locks the engine in place while you remove the crank pulley which is reverse threaded.
 

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How do you removal the pulley off ? What the special tool to use ?

Thanks
From Ford TSP:

35. Install Flywheel Holding Tool T74P-6375-A to cylinder block (6010) and engage flywheel (6375).

Use suitable spacers to ensure proper alignment of tool to flywheel.

36. Note: Crankshaft accessory drive pulley shaft has a left hand thread. Rotate pulley shaft clockwise to remove. Use a 24 mm open end wrench on the inside nut to remove crankshaft accessory drive pulley shaft.

Remove crankshaft accessory drive pulley and bracket assembly from the engine front cover and crankshaft damper.
 

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From Ford TSP:

35. Install Flywheel Holding Tool T74P-6375-A to cylinder block (6010) and engage flywheel (6375).

Use suitable spacers to ensure proper alignment of tool to flywheel.

36. Note: Crankshaft accessory drive pulley shaft has a left hand thread. Rotate pulley shaft clockwise to remove. Use a 24 mm open end wrench on the inside nut to remove crankshaft accessory drive pulley shaft.

Remove crankshaft accessory drive pulley and bracket assembly from the engine front cover and crankshaft damper.



so dont bother with the outside nut ? just the inner one ?
 

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Venxxx,

I went through this with my son's car. My pulley seemed a little different from yours. It had a rubber insert which separated so when the engine was running the belt did not turn. If you are going to try a regular wrench, you will need the holding tool. If the picture is a file photo and your nut is still good, use an impact wrench. A really, really, really good impact wrench. I have had to remove two of these and they do not come off easy. Remember to turn CLOCKWISE to LOOSEN. The first one I got off with an electric impact wrench. The second was a serious pain. My impact would do nothing on it. Borrowed a bigger one and wrung off the top bolt head. I could then remove the pulley assembly, but was left with the pulley assembly shaft still attached to the crankshaft damper. we had to cut the shaft down to that inner bolt looking piece so we could get a socket on it. I found a guy who had a mobile heavy equipment servicing truck who worked on cranes and dozers. He got it off with his heavy duty impact wrench. Hope you have better luck and your's comes off okay.

Ed
 

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Thanks for your reply Scout1. I did browse through your post on that... sounded scary enough. I hope I dont have to go through the same... my head bolt is stripped badly, I put a 5/8 deep impact socket and had to hammer it in, still didn't turn... and stripped again.

I might have to get a big wrench and try to get to the bolt on the shaft.
 

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Venxxxx,
I don't think a wrench will work, maybe a pipe wrench. The problem then is you need the locking tool to keep the crank from turning. Also you will need to put a piece of pipe on it to get more leverage. Can't do that from the top (no room). If you can lock the motor and get the car up on a lift and come up from the bottom and use a 4 foot pipe you might get lucky.

Ed
 

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What I did was jam an S hook from a tight down ratchet, then tied the other end to the AC column in front of the engine. It held the balancer in place from moving any, so that i can put in the socket and extend it a good foot out then rest on a car stand and on top of the tires. SO that give it some leverage and suspension. Then I got a 5 foot metal pipe going into the socket ratchet and turned it that way.
But the bolt stripped.

I guess I will try the pipe wrench and the 5 foot metal bar extention. As far as the locking tool, where can I get one ? My set up seems pretty solid though. It might just work w/o the locking tool.
 

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Venxxxxx,
If your motor is not turning while you are wrenching on it, then I think you have it locked pretty good. I originally looked for one of those holding tools and they were kind of pricey. Also the amount of force I needed to get mine loose I would have been afraid I would damage the flywheel. I don't have any more suggestions. When I was at your stage I considered putting a torch to it to loosen it up. Then you will ruin the harmonic balancer because it has rubber in it and the crank seal. If all else fails you could maybe cut the conical shaped part with a cutting wheel. It is hollow inside. It would be tight but I think you could get a socket on the harmonic balancer crankshaft bolt and then remove the harmonic balancer. This also increases the cost because you would probably have to buy new parts because junkyard parts would be just as hard to remove. Probably $300.00 plus on parts. I have been where you are and feel for you. What was really odd when I finally got mine off, it looked like brand new on the thread surface. No rust or loctite. Because it is reverse thread, I guess everytime you start the engine it tightens more. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Ed
 

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I set some JB weld epoxy onto the 16mm impact socket and letting it become one solid piece then I'll try turning it again. IF that doesn't work, I bought a 21" wrench that might just do the trick. Already tried the pipe wrench/cheater bar, it eats into the bolt and still nothing.

Last resort if it doesn't come out I will have to go your way and cut it out.

Once its cut out, how do you remove the thread to re-use the harmonic balance ?
I saw a pulley is about $56. But dont wanna pay for the harmonic balance if i can remove the pulley parts and reuse it.
 

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Okay,

JB weld epoxy didnt do a darn thing. It slipped right off. So I had to get down and nasty with it. I cut the shaft right before the 24MM bolt is, then put in a 24MM impact socket and with some extension as the same setup as before then it popped right off. It was loud like a gun went off. I thought I broke something, but it came loose.
I just gotta buy a new pulley, the harmonic balance is fine.

Here are some pics





For those of you guys who might run into this problem in the future. I want to address a few things:
1. The pulley is made of aluminum, so the 16mm first bolt is very likely to stripped.
2. IF it does strip, then the next logical thing is to cut off the shaft at the 2nd bolt which is 24mm
3. If that also stripped, then you're about to get some serious work ahead of you and that is to cut as deep into the pulley as possible and that base part is made of solid steel.
4. Dont go spent all your money on the flywheel holder special part, just simply take an S-hook from a tight-down ratchet and stick it in there, tight a few loops around the A/C / engine support brackets, then loop the rest under the car's suspension frame. It will move a little at first, but once the tension tightened up, that did the trick for me.


Im glad I got it out by just cutting the shaft which is aluminum alloy.
G'luck
 

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Thats exactly how I got mine off. We cut it right where you did and used the strongest impact wrench we could get. Congradulations for not giving up.

Ed
 

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Thats exactly how I got mine off. We cut it right where you did and used the strongest impact wrench we could get. Congradulations for not giving up.

Ed
:mike: THanks Scout1. HOw about popping the front engine cover to get to the timing chain? Thats where I'm at today. Manual said to remove the A/C but I can't get one last bolt out because it stripped also.

Should I just take the engine support off ? And put a jack under to support the engine ?

Btw, im doing all this with the engine in the car so its a bit tight.
 

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Ven,
Can't help you there. I didn't know you were going that far into it. I think if I was going to do a timing chain change I would have dropped the whole engine cradle assembly. You are half way there and I am sure others will help. Good luck. Now you know they did not design the Taurus for ease of repair.

Ed
 

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It was designed for ease of ASSembly, not DISassembly unfortunately :lol:
 

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Oh ok, no problem. Thanks for your help so far. Im glad to have someone who done it before and share the experience.... many ppl give advices from the manual, and im a hands on type of guy. Talk is cheap, action counts more.


lol yea, this is by far the most Pain in the Arse car i've ever worked on. I had to take the whole front bumper/radiator assembly off yesterday just to get to the darn stripped bolt.
Haven't gotten it out yet, gotta swing by Harbor Freight for the bolt extractor sockets.
 
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