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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 99 sable with a duratec v6. the alternator is done (over 117000 miles) and I am having trouble removing it from under the car. I have tried to remove the funky looking nut from the crank pulley but even with my impact air wrench it won't budge! the nuts wacky shape and holes around its perimiter lead me to think that its pinned on the threads? the alt will not come out with this pulley on the engine. anyone know whats going on with this? the manual i have says nothing about this. replys will be greatly appreciated!
cliff
 

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It is a PITA it looks like just as is the one on the SHO. I had to remove the subframe bolts on the right side and let the subframe down to get mine out.
Here are the Helm instructions.
  • 3.0L (4V)

    Removal

    Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 14-01 .

    Remove the accessory drive belt from the generator pulley. Refer to Section 03-05 .

    Remove the power steering line bracket and heater hose support bracket from the generator.

    Remove the upper generator bolts.

    Partially raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .

    Remove the right front wheel. Refer to Section 00-02 .

    Remove the lower fender splash shield retainers and position the shield out of the way.

    Remove the generator splash shield.

    Raise the vehicle.

    Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the battery positive cable from the generator.

    Position an adjustable stand to the subframe.

    Remove the right subframe bolts.

    Remove the lower generator bolt.

    Lower the subframe to provide clearance.

    Remove the generator.



    Installation

    NOTE: Do not tighten the lower bolt.

    Install the generator and the lower bolt.

    Raise the subframe and install the subframe bolts. Tighten the bolts to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).

    Remove the adjustable stand.

    Lower the vehicle.

    Install the upper generator bolts and tighten them to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

    Install the power steering line bracket and the heater hose support bracket. Tighten the nut to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).

    Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to Section 03-05 .

    Partially raise the vehicle.

    Tighten the lower generator bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

    Connect the generator electrical connector.

    Install the battery positive B + cable and nut. Tighten the cable nut to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

    Install the generator splash shield.

    Install the fender splash shield and the retainers.

    Install the right front wheel.

    Lower the vehicle.

    Connect the negative battery cable
 

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When I did mine, it was quit tough. All I had to do though was, dissconnect the battery (of course). Take the belt off, by means of the tensioner pully ( this is a b****, due to the one inch of space to put a box end wrench and push ever so slightly so the wrench dosen't slip off and you bang your hand on something). Than just take the 3 bolts or how ever many you have, off. And pull the alternator out. This is way easier sounding than it is. The CV boot it right in the way, so their is a lot of adjusting and pulling and pushing and swearing involved. Unless you drop the front subframe like Paul says, than it's right out. And for some reason getting the bolts back in, with the rubber sleaves that go around the bolts, never seem to screw back in right. Like it wants to cross thread, but after a coulpe trys it will go in correctly.

I did mine myself cuse', the Ford dealer wanted $450+ tax for the alt and install. SO I just paid $80 or what ever it cost for the new alt. I would have bought a new gator back belt, but my belt was about a year old. It was put on when the SHO shop UDP was put on. All in all it a good project for a begginer.
 

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Just turned 130k....all original.....cant wait 'till i have to do that
 

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im gonna have to replace mine when i do my stereo, i will be putting in a bigger alt. i am not looking forward to that, the alt is really cramed in there
. im just going to let a shop do it, it looks like too much of a hassle to do it alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input. I wrestled with the #@$% thing for an hour and then read the post from SHOZ123 and dropped the subframe. Once I did that it came out easily. I then installed the new alt. and the car would not fire up. it just turned over and over.... My lovely wife read in the manual that the crankcase position sensor is one of the items that will affect the engine running. Upon close inspection we discovered that I broke the position sensor with the alt.from all the moving in and out and sideways! So be careful out there. Bite the bullet and drop the subframe. Total cost $180 for new alt from Autozone. thanks again.
 

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Originally posted by hoss@Dec 7 2003, 02:07 PM
I'm gonna have to replace mine when i do my stereo, i will be putting in a bigger alt. i am not looking forward to that, the alt is really cramed in there
. im just going to let a shop do it, it looks like too much of a hassle to do it alone.
Before you upgrade your 130A alternator, I would suggest you see how much of your 130A you are using. I bet it's not more than 70-80 Amps. Just a suggestion.
 
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