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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You guys ever hear of Duralast Rotors from Autozone? I see the posts for Aimco but all my Autozone has is Duralast ($35) and Valucraft($20) and I want to see how the Duralast performed. Thanks...
 

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I use Duralast Gold rotors and Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads (all aquired from Autozone). Several people have had very good things to say about them, including teh Bob. I've not had mine on all that long, but they are working great at the moment!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by Mantioch@Oct 18 2004, 01:22 PM
I use Duralast Gold rotors and Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads (all aquired from Autozone). Several people have had very good things to say about them, including teh Bob. I've not had mine on all that long, but they are working great at the moment!
Thanks... I'll have to see if they're the Duralast Gold (is there another type ?) but when I asked for the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic Pads they said "Yes", they're always in stock for the Taurus as they're a very popular replacement pad.
 

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I just put some on the front of my SHO, if you are at all mechanically inclined you can chage your brake pads and rotors yourself pretty easily, it took me 1 hour to do one side (becuase I didn't have a c clamp) but once I got a C clamp it took me 10 minutes to do the other side.

Just have the appropiate sized wrench (15mm or 13mm I believe, some penetrating lube, a C clamp is a MUST! and a little bit of patience. If you are doing the rears RELEASE the Parking brake when you are doing them.

Becareful, and good luck.
 

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As for pads, I've had great luck with Wagner Thermaquiet. They're, well, very quiet. The don't have a shim, so they don't make any squealing noises when you first apply the brakes.

As for the rotors, I got rotors cheaper than that last year. I'm not sure what brand they are, but they were like 24 for the fronts and 28 for the rears.

JR
 
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I have the Valucraft rotors and Performance Friction pads on the front of my wife's car. This car was run HARD on a road track earlier this year, and we've put at least another 5k miles on it since then. Still have the same pads and rotors, and no signs of warpage or other damage. Screw the expensive stuff! :)

The PF pads do tend to dust the wheels a little more than regular pads, however it's a small price to pay for the stopping power of these pads.

You'll need a 12mm wrench for the caliper bolts, and a 15mm for the bracket bolts. C-clamp, as Kermit mentioned, is something you can't do without.

Also, when clamping the piston back in, crack the bleeder open. The ABS units don't like getting dirty fluid pumped back into them.
 

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Also, when clamping the piston back in, crack the bleeder open. The ABS units don't like getting dirty fluid pumped back into them.
Oh, snarf. I didn't do that. I guess I can expect an ABS unit failure in the near future?
 

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I don't think it'll mean failure...I've never heard of anyone cracking the bleeder screws, so it's probably more of a precaution than anything else.

JR
 
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I don't think it will cause failure immediately, I did at least three brake jobs on Anonda's car before finding this out, and it's fine.

It definitely helps on the rears though, to make screwing the piston back in a little easier.
 
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