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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2003 Taurus SE sedan. I just replaced the rear drum brakes on it. This is the first time replacing drum brakes. All went well on the replacement. I am not 100% confident that I have adjusted the shoe/drum correctly. I have looked on a bunch of different sites to find out the "correct" way to know that the drag is set right. I know how to adjust the shoes in and out. I am just not sure how I know the drag is set where it should be. When I spin the dew drums, I can hear a slight grinding noise.

After the completion of the brake job when taking the car for test drive, I can hear a slight rear grinding noise when the brakes are being applied. The noise slows down as the car speed slows. Is this the way that drum brakes sound when adjusted correctly?

Thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I should of said a rubbing noise not grinding noise. I know there is a big difference. Thanks
 

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There really shouldn't be grinding noise. I adjust until when spinning the wheel you hear a little drag and then back off a click or two. Did you replace the springs and lube the self adjuster ? Self adjuster should adjust when you back up and apply the brakes a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I replaced everything. I didn't lube the self adjuster, What kind of lube?
 

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I use either bearing grease or anti seize I lube the both ends of the star wheel. If you installed a new one then you should be ok. Your shoes need to wear into the same arc as your drums but I just set the adjuster so I don't get the rub, a click or two back from the rub.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
To be clear, when checking the drag, when I do hear the a drag I back off a couple of turns or so and then I shouldn't hear or feel any kind of rub at all or barely at all?
 

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Not turns but a few teeth. I adjust when drum is off and install the drum and test. You don't want drag but you want the shoe just barely off the drum so you have a high pedal when braking. That's how I have been setting them for forty years and learned from my father. I have never looked on the web to see how others do it. Is it different from what you have read or seen?
 

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I have a 2003 Taurus SE sedan. I just replaced the rear drum brakes on it. This is the first time replacing drum brakes. All went well on the replacement. I am not 100% confident that I have adjusted the shoe/drum correctly. I have looked on a bunch of different sites to find out the "correct" way to know that the drag is set right. I know how to adjust the shoes in and out. I am just not sure how I know the drag is set where it should be. When I spin the dew drums, I can hear a slight grinding noise.

After the completion of the brake job when taking the car for test drive, I can hear a slight rear grinding noise when the brakes are being applied. The noise slows down as the car speed slows. Is this the way that drum brakes sound when adjusted correctly?

Thanks for the advice.
If you adjust with the drum off then push the drum on, you can't get them too tight. If you adjust till you can get the drums on with minimum effort you are fine. If you are replacing the shoes with the old drums there is a ridge around the inside edge. If you can get them on over that ridge, they will be a bit loose until the new shoes wear the high spots off. Some noise is normal. Dive around the block and check for excess heat.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not turns but a few teeth. I adjust when drum is off and install the drum and test. You don't want drag but you want the shoe just barely off the drum so you have a high pedal when braking. That's how I have been setting them for forty years and learned from my father. I have never looked on the web to see how others do it. Is it different from what you have read or seen?
From the web there are so many different suggestions. "Most" say to that there should be a slight drag between the shoe and drum. To me, slight drag, leaves it open to a lot of discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you adjust with the drum off then push the drum on, you can't get them too tight. If you adjust till you can get the drums on with minimum effort you are fine. If you are replacing the shoes with the old drums there is a ridge around the inside edge. If you can get them on over that ridge, they will be a bit loose until the new shoes wear the high spots off. Some noise is normal. Dive around the block and check for excess heat.
-chart-
I am replacing with new drums. Should the new drums be cleaned before installing much like new rotors or does it not matter either way?
 

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All brake surfaces should be clean and free of any grease or anti rust stuff. Drums get larger when warmer and thus get looser when used. My experience with G-4 bulls. By the time you need new shoes, the wheel cylinder is starting to leak. New shoes push the cups back on rusted center of the cylinder, then they start to leak. For me, being old school, I hone and put in new cups.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All brake surfaces should be clean and free of any grease or anti rust stuff. Drums get larger when warmer and thus get looser when used. My experience with G-4 bulls. By the time you need new shoes, the wheel cylinder is starting to leak. New shoes push the cups back on rusted center of the cylinder, then they start to leak. For me, being old school, I hone and put in new cups.
-chart-
I replaced the wheel cylinders as well.
 

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Congrats. Here in the rust belt, highly unlikely to get the tube flare nut off the tube to the cylinder. So for me, quick fix hone and new cups on my '03 Taurus. I have pictures of both sides as I see drum bks as a jug saw puzzle with some colored parts if the color is still visible. And then special tools. Rear discs are not much fun either.
-chart-
 
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