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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here i am again.

We have a 2000 ford Taurus with keyless remote and 35k miles on it ONLY....otherwise in excellent condition besides the intermittent driver's side window funtion. We have replaced the switch, the motor-twice and the window seems to work more when it is cold outside ( go figure?). Jerry's ford says as a last resort tracking the problem down to the GEM module (yf1Z-14B205-HA ). We the GEM module is a discontinued item of course.

The car just failed inspection because of the window.

It is a shame to sell the car because of the window issue.

MY QUESTION(s):

  • Does anyone know of an aftermarket solution for another GEM module or cross reference to another GEM module that would work (fat chance).
  • Could we rewire the door, from the GEM module, to enable THAT window to work while disabling one of the other windows?
  • Anyone have a source for GEM modules?
Your responses will be appreciated.
 

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So here i am again.

We have a 2000 ford Taurus with keyless remote and 35k miles on it ONLY....otherwise in excellent condition besides the intermittent driver's side window funtion. We have replaced the switch, the motor-twice and the window seems to work more when it is cold outside ( go figure?). Jerry's ford says as a last resort tracking the problem down to the GEM module (yf1Z-14B205-HA ). We the GEM module is a discontinued item of course.

The car just failed inspection because of the window.

It is a shame to sell the car because of the window issue.

MY QUESTION(s):

  • Does anyone know of an aftermarket solution for another GEM module or cross reference to another GEM module that would work (fat chance).
  • Could we rewire the door, from the GEM module, to enable THAT window to work while disabling one of the other windows?
  • Anyone have a source for GEM modules?
Your responses will be appreciated.

Auto Parts Cheaper Home page. Dealership Auto Parts at Low Prices. Reasonable Shipping Charges with no Hidden fees.

FYI

-chart-
 

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Are you sure there isn't some kind of fault in the wiring (ie a broken wire?)

When you say GEM do you want the GEM box that attaches to the central junction box (aka fusebox and soldered on circuit board relays) or that whole setup?

I can always grab an assembly from the junkyard if you want (iirc around $25-30) but I don't really have an easy way to test, just can give you a 30 day warranty from the yard.
 

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+1 ^ "Are you sure there isn't some kind of fault in the wiring (ie a broken wire?)"

Go ahead with replacement GEM. Hope it works.

One thing I learned recently is that dealers don't like to open electrical wiring diagram and locate broken wires. Their preference is to switch parts and make quick money. Apparently, dealers have difficulty to have customers pay for diagnosis labor.

What I am trying to say is that Jerry's Ford's giving up doesn't diminish the probability of wiring fault at all. I bet they spent insufficient time on wiring diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you sure there isn't some kind of fault in the wiring (ie a broken wire?)

When you say GEM do you want the GEM box that attaches to the central junction box (aka fusebox and soldered on circuit board relays) or that whole setup?

I can always grab an assembly from the junkyard if you want (iirc around $25-30) but I don't really have an easy way to test, just can give you a 30 day warranty from the yard.
All I know is my MILs car window would work when it wanted. this started 6 yrs. ago. I replaced the switch in the door...thought it worked. then they replaced the motor in the door, twice...Then FORD traced the problem to the GEM Module: general electronic module.

I appreciate the effort but unless it is exactly this part: yf1Z-14B205-HA
I do not dare risk it. For one thing the dealership has to install and program this unit at the modest cost of an arm and a leg so I don't really have or want second chances for installs you understand.

So if you can somehow verify the EXACT part number above coming from a narrow group of FORD models with keyless entry I may be able to use your part. This problem of mine has a very specific solution unfortunately.

:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
+1 ^ "Are you sure there isn't some kind of fault in the wiring (ie a broken wire?)"

Go ahead with replacement GEM. Hope it works.

One thing I learned recently is that dealers don't like to open electrical wiring diagram and locate broken wires. Their preference is to switch parts and make quick money. Apparently, dealers have difficulty to have customers pay for diagnosis labor.

What I am trying to say is that Jerry's Ford's giving up doesn't diminish the probability of wiring fault at all. I bet they spent insufficient time on wiring diagnosis.
Thanks...I am new to new fords but have had OLDER fords all my life.....

anyway, I think I paid for something called a point test or point testing to pinpoint the wiring problem. There is no wiring problem there is an issue with the GEM module. ( I hope ).Christ all I know is that up until 3 weeks ago we had 2 identical 2000 ford taurus SEl one grey one white. After my MIL past away we got her car. My wife just sold her car with 80K on it but it worked just fine. She just had the gray one inspected and it failed because of that [email protected]$&^$&&* window..... So here I am.....

I wonder how hard it would be to rewire so this window would work instead of perhaps a rear window....

thanks for the response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What is the dealer programming for?
I do not know. If it has to be programmed then it has to be programmed since I may be getting a GEM from a different car altogether and the GEM is the heart of the electronics; probably would have to re-learn all the keys associated with the car? dunno.....sounds plausible.
 

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Do other windows work? Just the driver's window? If so, I am not sure how GEM can be the cause. I am looking at the wiring diagram (my '05). If all windows work and only the driver's window is not, either the switch is faulty or the connector is. You already replace the switch. It's gotta be the connector/wire to the next connector.

Re-wiring of driver's winder seems to be as simple as splicing a wire from the connector. At least on the paper I am looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do other windows work? Just the driver's window? If so, I am not sure how GEM can be the cause. I am looking at the wiring diagram (my '05). If all windows work and only the driver's window is not, either the switch is faulty or the connector is. You already replace the switch. It's gotta be the connector/wire to the next connector.

Re-wiring of driver's winder seems to be as simple as splicing a wire from the connector. At least on the paper I am looking at.
Yeah man!!!! all 3 windows work. SERVICE has had the vehicle completely torn apart and well you know the rest. They would have tested the obvious stuff of course...they did replace the motor and the switches.....

thanks for helping us think this thing through.
 

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Since I cannot show you the wiring diagram, let me explain in words.

This rectangle area includes 3 window switches, Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passenger. All 3 get power through 1 wire, LB/BK, through Connector C504b. This single wire comes from GEM (or Smart Junction Box), C2280c. How can GEM be faulty and other doors work?

I am assuming my 2005 is not different from you 2000.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Since I cannot show you the wiring diagram, let me explain in words.

This rectangle area includes 3 window switches, Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passenger. All 3 get power through 1 wire, LB/BK, through Connector C504b. This single wire comes from GEM (or Smart Junction Box), C2280c. How can GEM be faulty and other doors work?

I am assuming my 2005 is not different from you 2000.
Thanks for that.

I found a Gem MODULE . THE SELLER SAYS
that the cuurent FORD part number for the GEM is the new number:
yf1Z-14B205-HA

which replaced the OLD partnumber :YF1T-14B205-CE

Is there some way I could verify that these 2 part numbers are for the same part???
 

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Thanks for that.

I found a Gem MODULE . THE SELLER SAYS
that the cuurent FORD part number for the GEM is the new number:
yf1Z-14B205-HA

which replaced the OLD partnumber :YF1T-14B205-CE

Is there some way I could verify that these 2 part numbers are for the same part???
best way is to call the dealer. a couple of them. if the part does replace the old one they will see if when they enter it into the computer.
 

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That part will work on a 2000...I had the same part # before I put in a 02-03 GEM module.

The GEM module does not require programming at the dealer. The only programming you will have to do is reprogram your remote clickers (easy). The key programming is stored in the car's PCM. You can hot swap GEMs all day long.
 

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vdotmatrix----------Wife's 2K, non-keyboard entry, DS window in the down and dead position:

Remove screws and door panel. Remove four screws and door speaker. See motor, peel/remove several inches tape from two wires leading to the plug on the side of the motor. Reach up and detach two wire plug connector from window motor (bitch). Cut both wires at 2 inches from plug connector. Apply 12v to one wire of the plug connector and ground the other wire. If window motor does not move window upward, reverse the wire connections. Window should move to up position and stop. If not, motor is faulty.

Install new DPDT, center off switch, connecting 12v and ground for a bypass power arrangement to manually operate the window. Tape off the two wires coming from the in door wire loom.

Worked for me, your mileage may vary.:)

Joepa
 

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vdotmatrix----------Wife's 2K, non-keyboard entry, DS window in the down and dead position:

Remove screws and door panel. Remove four screws and door speaker. See motor, peel/remove several inches tape from two wires leading to the plug on the side of the motor. Reach up and detach two wire plug connector from window motor (bitch). Cut both wires at 2 inches from plug connector. Apply 12v to one wire of the plug connector and ground the other wire. If window motor does not move window upward, reverse the wire connections. Window should move to up position and stop. If not, motor is faulty.

Install new DPDT, center off switch, connecting 12v and ground for a bypass power arrangement to manually operate the window. Tape off the two wires coming from the in door wire loom.

Worked for me, your mileage may vary.:)

Joepa
On my Lin Cont it just quit. I opened the panel and used a portable jumper battery and hot wired the motor connector. It ran fine. Checked the power connector and it had 12V. However the connector was just loose. I used a scribe and bent the female connector to tighten it and has been running fine for a year. No parts required. :lol2:

Analysis, testing, and diagonistics beat putting on parts. Loose and corroded connections are common, especially inside a door.

I am guessing now: the dealer had the panel off couple of times to replace the keypad. I think they let the panel hang from the wire and damaged the connector. Your connection may varry.

-chart-
 
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