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On my 2010 Ford Taurus ....I have read several threads on this board about this same issue with other models and I think I need to replace the blend door actuator located under the glove box. I saw the part when replacing the blower motor a few weeks ago. Is this the correct picture of the part I should replace? Also, is there anything I need to take particular note of when installing it? Thanks in advance!
 

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That's the part, but there is more then one. The one that controls the passenger side heat is to the left of that behind a pipe and a wiring harness. I'm not sure where the drivers side actuator is located. Possibly on the other side of the center stack.
 

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I'm dealing with this same issue right now on my 2008 Taurus SEL. That actuator in the pic is actually the one that controls the fresh/recirculate function of the ac. It will do nothing for your temperature control to replace that one. If you look to the left of that actuator (just behind the white hose and black plastic wire harness shield in the far left of the pic) you'll see another actuator, its held in by 2 screws just the same as the white actuator in the pic. This is the passenger temp control actuator.

First though... you need to figure out if its the passenger side or driver side that's messed up. Simple to do. Crank your car, turn on the ac, take both sides through a hot/cold test and see which side stays stuck at either hot or cold. That'll be your problem side. Cause I believe theres actually 5 actuators:

Passenger temp
Driver Temp
Fresh/recirc
Defrost
Blend door

Most likely gonna be pass or driver temp. I dont know exactly where the driver side one is, I have not had to replace that one yet...
 

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Just fixed this

I just fixed the issue today with the passenger side blowing only (very) hot air. It's a stuck blend door so the same issue would cause it to only blow in colder air, depending on where it got stuck.

I got some vague info from various forums (FYI, the dash on the Flex appears to be the same), I'm sharing what I learned for the next victim.

You'll need to take the glove compartment out. That part's easy. Bring it down, and disconnect the damper on the left side (it's easy to forget), then squeeze the sides together and it will come down. Bring it all the way down then the U-shaped brackets at the bottom can come up and loose. If you forget to take the damper off, it will come apart (but you should be able to reassemble it unless it completely breaks).

Now look inside behind where the glove box was. There are two actuators (motors) on the right side that control air direction. The one directly in front controls the re-circulation (it is the one that usually results in the thump-thump problem, and is easy to replace). There is another of exactly the same model on the left, facing inward toward the console - it controls the temp for the passenger side.


If you can't change the temp on the passenger side, it is probably the actuator near the center. As you can see, it is mostly covered up by a wiring harness making it very difficult to replace. There is also the possibility that it is a control circuit so replacing this isn't a guaranteed fix, but usually the motors go first so it's by far the likely culprit.

FYI, if you look under the driver side, there is a similar one facing inward toward the center console on that side as well. I assume it controls the driver side.

You can get your part from a dealer or a parts store now, or after you've verified that it's broken. Since there are multiple blend door actuators, you will need to ask for a right hand blend door actuator.

OK, now to the tough part.

There are instructions for replacing the passenger blend door actuator here. If this link dies, don't worry - there aren't any special tricks. I detached the wiring harness pin at the bottom per the instructions, though I don't know it helped much.

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/7ai97-taurus-2010-ford-taurus-heat-driver-side-no-heat-right.html

The front screw comes out easily. The one in back is hard to even see, and very hard to get out. Probably the best advice I read (on a Flex forum) was to use a knuckle joint (i.e. universal joint) adapter for a 1/4 inch socket wrench. I made no real progress for over an hour until I bought one. It only took a few minutes to get it out holding the adapter by hand (no wrench), using the 90-degree angle of the adapter as a lever. I tied the knuckle joint adapter to my hand with a stretch of dental floss in case I dropped it (which I did). Why dental floss? It's strong and wouldn't get in the way. And I had it on and. It also made my handy work minty fresh.

I worried about losing that back screw, as I'd barely have a hold on it. My wife couldn't hold onto it with her small hands either. I took a refrigerator magnet and wedged it above the lip that runs underneath the actuator. The screw fell onto it and stuck.

If you like, you can test it now. Turn on the car and turn the passenger temp up and down slowly. It should move. It probably won't. Keep in mind, it could be something else that is the problem. Turn the car off.

Now you have to disconnect the wiring connector. Fortunately it doesn't have the red safety-lock like the recirc actuator. Unfortunately it is so short that you'll be working nearly blind. It's up at the top (keep in mind, this is exactly the same as the recirc actuator in front of you). I had the best luck moving it so the connector was visible to the right of the wiring harness, where I could get a screwdriver in there to click it loose.

Now you can really test it using the cable for the recirc actuator. Disconnect the wiring connector - you'll have to pull the red tab up first, then you can click the black tab. Put the wiring into the actuator you just took loose. Turn the car on, and turn the main temperature knob up and down. If the actuator doesn't move, it is broken. Turn off the car and put the connector back into the recirc actuator.

Wriggle the new actuator close to it's intended position. Getting the cable connector back on was a struggle; the only thing that worked was just doing it blind with the actuator in one hand and the cable in the other.

The plastic gear shaft isn't symmetrical, and if you try to just stick it in the hole it probably won't line up. You can make the line up by turning on the engine and turning the passenger temp up and down one click at a time. The gear will move a bit, so move it until everything lines up. If the open part is facing away from you it might be easier to stick something flat into the hole and flipping the blend doors the other way (facing you). They should move easily.

Once the shaft was in, it almost lined up but not quite, until I wriggled with it to make the hole at the top line up with whatever goes into it (is isn't visible). Then it lined up perfectly.

The front screw goes on easily. I taped the back screw to the socket so it wouldn't fall out, and it went in fairly easily as well.

The instructions say you need to calibrate it. Take out fuse 15 (under the drivers side dash - see owner's manual) for a minute, turn it on for 30 seconds, then put back in fuse 15 and turn it on again.

I realize this is a long post...I hope this helps someone!
 

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Great pics & write-up, BD.
I realize this is an older thread, but I have a similar problem and have been reading all of the actuator threads before I proceed with my repair.
 

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Which actuator controls the "face" zone? I have tested the driver's side (temp control) and tested the one straight inside the glove box (feet or defrost). I cannot get my A/C to blow out of the face vents. Please help!
 

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Replaced the easy one first, recirculating door actuator but no change. Still hot air always blowing out the passenger side vents. Took the new actuator back out and reinstalled the original one. Then replaced the harder to get passenger side actuator with the new one and the climate system works perfect again. The second screw was hard to get to but managed with 1/4” drive ratchet and 8mm socket. Both actuators are the same part #YH-1779, about $42 can. 2013 Taurus
 
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