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Hey guys,

I don't know about anyone else's opinion... But I personally think that Draxas Performance is taking WAY too long in making this Cold Air Intake for the GEN3/4 Duratecs and Vulcans. I think it's time for us to come together and make one thats affordable, but yet great in quality.

I see that some of us on here have some CAIs fabricated. But mainly its the Vulcan guys. Now... I have a Duratec, and the MAF adapter from Draxas is a 3.5" opening (when you purchase the Short Ram Intake). This is going to pose a problem... seeing that mose filters and piping offered on the market is 3" and the opening on the fender wall barely fits a 3" tube, so in this case... we all have to pitch in, and figure a way to make a TRUE CAI for the Duratec, and for you Vulcan guys... (which I believe will be easier) lets figure a great way to make one for you too...

Who's with me?!

Thanks in advence to all the replies...

Sorry Draxas, but... I dont think a CAI should take near a 5 months to fabricate

(but once again, this is only in my opinion)

SableSal
 

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onto your MAF adapter get a silicone boot (3"-3") and order the universal "J" bend from Matrix motorsports (tunedbymatrix.com). It costs like $20 something and this will put the filter into the fenderwell. I have this on mine so if you have questions check out the pics @ my cardomain site. I am als currently awaiting one of these to make one for a friend's vulcan.

-Z-
 
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Nice Taurus BTW.

Also I have to correct myself, the adapter that Draxas constructed has a 3.25" opening.. so a 3" coupler (adapter) should fit quite well. Anyhow.. thanks for the replies.. keep em coming!


SableSal
 
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Ok guys, I have fitted a new CAI for the Sable/Taurus'... It's looking GREAT! I think it's going to go into production soon... Seriously, I think that this will look great, and work great! I cant wait to show it to you all. This will also be powder coated. and include a K&N Filter, Let me know on some more ideas on a Cold Air Intake for the Duratecs and the Vulcans. Thanks guys,

SableSal
 

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Nice work so far. Are you going to do a tutorial or are you going to be making some of these for purchase? I agree that Draxas seems to be taking forever. They haven't even been replying to posts in the thread they started on their CAI. Good work sablesal. B)
 

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Hey Sal, how much is that powder coating costing you? I've never had anything powder coated before so i have no clue on something like that.
 
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I'll do a Turtorial, and if someone thinks it's too much to handle. I will get the parts powder coated and sell then to the customer. Easy as that. As for Powder Coating... thats simple, I have a friend who owns the "Iron Hog" in Fresno. He powdercoats in the rear of the shop. So it'll be fairly cheap for me to do something like this in a mass quantity. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks again!


SableSal
 

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Hey SableSal, use calipers when measuring diameter. It may seem anal of me to say that, but a tape won't be accurate for those kind of measurements, and it doesn't look professional.
 

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Originally posted by silvapain@Jun 9 2004, 09:29 AM
Hey SableSal, use calipers when measuring diameter. It may seem anal of me to say that, but a tape won't be accurate for those kind of measurements, and it doesn't look professional.
Any suggestions for a good general purpose caliper? I have none and would like to get one (some) but have no clue what brand/type to look at or if it matters. I'd prefer something good that will last for some time but wouldn't need anything professional as it wouldn't be used frequently.
 
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These are all rough estimates. Nothing is for sure. I know I should measure with a caliper. I intend to.
 

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I use stainless steel Imperial dial calipers. Brand is not really important, as long as they are steel and you can recalibrate them if they loose calibration. Digital ones are nice too, but they are expensive and not really necessary if you know how to read a regular caliper.

SableSal, the Vulcan TB inside diameter is 65mm, or 2.559". If you need anything measured on the Vulcan I could measure mine for you.


My calipers look like this:
 

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Cool, then could you measure all that I have measured? I believe they might be near same... But who knows? Thanks
 
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Great news, all the parts are now ordered. All I have to do is wait til I get them installed on the car. Give me about a week to get it going. I'm trying to keep you as posted as I possibly can. I'll let you all know, thanks for the support and the PMs. I'll take pics as soon as I get the thing together. Should be one week from today. Thanks a Million.


SABLESAL
 
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Good news then! For calipers, I bought a digital pair for the shop a couple years ago for about $25 on Ebay. Sure, they're cheap Taiwan stuff, but they still work. I have them calibrated every six months at work.
 

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Instead of just making some CAI for yourselfs. Why don't you guys build a design and then sell it or however you want to get it to draxas (of whoever) so it can be put on the shelves. I know that Cantide_97 has a very nice custom CAI. If U guys are also in to performance then you know a CAI will do almost nothing alone. So why not get one of those $280 catless y-pipes from Draxas. Think if you had a CAI, got your headers & upper/lower intake manifolds Port and Polished, opened your high rpm runner up to 37mm and replace their butterflys too, 75mm TB and 75mm MAF also And a chip. If you really want to replace your pistons & rods with stronger and high compression ones and get the Vortec charger for a cougar. The SC will work on the 3.0 I have seen it done. Lets get these beast up to 250 mabe 300 or over.

What I am trying to say is that there is plenty out there you just have to know how to find it. It may seem that there is nothing for the Taurus but if nobody buys the anything, then nobody is going to stock anything and it we put down those who try then what do we expect. There is a supply we just are not showing the demand. Things are expensive for the taurus right now I know it sucks. But that is supply and demand. I am sure that most of us if not all understand that concept so don't think I am talking down to any of the lot of ya. Well maybe I am to the red necks. But hey you don't learn everything by the end of fifth grade. Just Kidden.

Have a good one Guys! - Spitzer
 

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well...i agree with you other than the fac that draxas does not make a y-pipe anymore. To my knoledge, only 4 were made, and i have the only working one.

As a result...they stoped making them. I have a real nice CAI...heres the link

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6342

We already have 75mm mafs....plus, larger ones arent gonna help anyways. I know you did not list injectors, but im sure youll mention that next...we already have 24lb injectors which are overkill. They support up to about 280 hp.maybe more.

Also...yes, the cougar and contour turbo and supercharger kits work on the 3.0 block....WITH A 5-Speed!, the tranny is MUCH smaller allowing for these items to be used. Also the accesory positions are diffrent making the supercharger custom mount. Also the superchargers were discontinued for quite some time.They arre now availible, but the jack shafts, just slike the shos are GUARENTEED TO FAIL PREMATURLY. Plus the cost of forced induction is much more than 250$.

I think the best option you listed was a chip. I have one and on 89 octane, i gained quite a bit on the dyno, let alone if i were to run 93 like the chip was designed for!

I want to stress that i totally agree with most of what you said. But "alterinatives" you listed are not too feasable for most. There are alot of thigs we can do, but most people dont want to shell out the cash.


Brad
 

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On my last post I am not saying that persons should not do anything themselfs. But when you guys get done try to see about getting the product on the shelfs. If we have to set up threads and get these parts built ourselfs then so be it. Maybe Draxas or another maybe a rival company would be willing to give a few here on the board curtain resources to do the research and design these parts/mods. Has anybody thought of that. If they are to busy and or just don't want to waste their time. Let do it ourselfs and prove that there is a market. We can show what a few can do and if there are a few who want it anuff to build it then there will be a many to buy it. Well it sounds good. - Spitzer
 

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We do have 75mm MAF but not 75mm worth of airflow. Look at the hugh obstruction. The y-pipes are still listed for $280 maybe only three were made becase cost prohibits stocking them and they are made on demand. Sorry I did not read the site all that well they are listed but not being "sold becuase they are waiting to a design revision". Also of I never ment that the SC was $250 since that is nonsense unless you put another zero at the end of it. However I know that I did not list injectors or Ignition system (not including wires or plugs) becase both are more then overkill - becasue of emission laws i believe. And yes like I said "Things are expensive for the taurus right now I know it sucks. But that is supply and demand".

I think the best bet is the Chip as well.

What ever happend to P&P. $600 is average and if that is getting done take care of those high rpm runner too. That should only be around another $100 - 200. For those prices that I mostlikely the biggest NA gains our motor will get minus exhaust. P&P with High rpm runner work. I would think that would come out to around atleast 50hp if not more.
 

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Simple step by step CAI instructions. Works on GenIV, try at own risk on other gens.

01. Park car on flat surface.
02. Set parking brake, chock rear tires
03. Follow directions on the modifications page detailing how to remove the intake silencer.
04. Pop hood
05. VERY CAREFULLY disconnect your battery terminals
06. Remove battery shield
07. Unscrew the block and bolt that hold battery in place
08. Remove battery
09. Remove drivers side headlight by removing the 1 screw and 2 metal tabs
10. Remove the 4 battery tray screws, remove battery tray
11. Remove the 2 screws that hold the lower portion of the airbox in place, remove lower airbox
12. VERY CAREFULLY wiggle the long black pipe that heads under the drivers headlight mount to release the plastic gasket, remove that piece of plastic, place on a hard surface, smash with sledge hammer
13. Replace battery tray, reinstall the 4 screws
14. Reinstall drivers headlight
15. Put battery back on tray, replace block and bolt, replace battery cover
16. Reinstall lower air box
17. Make sure everything is tight
18. Reconnect battery terminals
19. Unchock rear wheels, close hood
20. Start car, place in reverse, leave parking spot, turn off All Speed Traction Control (if installed), align car onto the longest, straightest piece of ashphault available
21. FLOOR IT FLOOR IT!
22. Laugh as neighborhood mothers have a new reason to hate your very existance

All done. CAI complete. Screw Draxas, AEM, and all the rest of the idiots who want to charge 6 times as much as it would cost to get the same stuff on line and at the local harware store.
 
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