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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 Taurus 3.0 Vulcan Flex Fuel vehicle.
I am getting TERRIBLE fuel economy. I got a check engine light code: P0401 -EGR system faulty.

When I looked on my car, I realized that the DPFE sensor's tubes are both off. I asked my mechanic friend and he said that they both came off (probably melted + age) and the connector tube for the DPFE broke off as well.

I am going to replace the tubes as well as the DPFE, but I have no idea which tube goes to which pipe. I smell exhaust gas when the car is running, and it comes from the metal tubes behind the manifold, which should go to the DPFE. Where can I get the tubes? Should I just get a regular tube from autozone?

Can anyone help me to figure out which tube goes to which port on the DPFE?
 

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What kind of fuel economy. This is sounding more like a plugged catalytic converter than an EGR problem.
 

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Just changed my plugs and when I had the Intake Manifold off I changed the dpfe with 104,000 miles. The larger tube connects to the lowest metal tube and the small tube on the sensor connects to the upper line. They are different size vacuum line. I believe the larger is 1/4 in ID and the smaller is 3/16 in ID. It is good to clean the port for the EGR while you are having fun. Just 2 bolts between the good job and not knowing. Carbon deposits are not yopur friend for economy!!
Hope this helps!
 

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What broke off? The 2 metal tubes on the exhaust or the 2 plastic (metal) tubes which are part of the dpfe? You cant screw it up, tubes are different sizes on both the dpfe and exhaust. The larger tube on the dpfe is marked HI, the smaller tube is marked REF (reference).
 

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^ If youre replacing the dpfe sensor, get the borg-warner one from oreilly or advanced auto. Stay away from the duralast (wells) one from az. They probably carry the silicone sampling hoses as well. Youll want part# egr155 or #egr631 depending on the style your 2000 ffv has.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What broke off? The 2 metal tubes on the exhaust or the 2 plastic (metal) tubes which are part of the dpfe?
The plastic port broke off the dpfe. The tubes are missing along with he ports. My mechanic friend say they probably melted off and fell off.

^ If youre replacing the dpfe sensor, get the borg-warner one from oreilly or advanced auto. Stay away from the duralast (wells) one from az. They probably carry the silicone sampling hoses as well. Youll want part# egr155 or #egr631 depending on the style your 2000 ffv has.
Thanks. I got the hose from the dealer, and I got the part from Advance Auto instead of Autozone, despite Autozone being cheaper.

I am about to change the dpfe with new tubes and clean the EGR valve.

It has 159k miles. The gas light turned on after a full tank and 295 miles. That is terrible compared to what it used to be. Its my wife's car, so I am not sure. I am about to change the rear spark plugs. I changed the fronts over the weekend. The gap was greater than 0.1". The recommended range is 0.042-0.046". The air filter is clean.

Is there anything else I can "tune up" for this fuel economy issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My wife is getting really bad fuel economy now. She is getting about 250 miles to the tank whereas she used to get 330-350 before. What else could I check to repair for this fuel economy problem?
 

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Look at fuel trims with a good scantool. No point in any more guesswork.
 

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^^^^ +1!
 

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Fuel trims are the percent of fuel the PCM is adding / subrracting from the base fuel map to keep a stoich air fuel ratio as determined by the O2 sensors. There is a short term and a long term fuel trim value for each cyl bank. Trims change somewhat under different engine loading.

Most moderate priced scanners (> $150 or so) will read basic PIDS, such as fuel trims, RPM, ECT, IAT, timing advance, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fuel trims are the percent of fuel the PCM is adding / subrracting from the base fuel map to keep a stoich air fuel ratio as determined by the O2 sensors. There is a short term and a long term fuel trim value for each cyl bank. Trims change somewhat under different engine loading.

Most moderate priced scanners (> $150 or so) will read basic PIDS, such as fuel trims, RPM, ECT, IAT, timing advance, etc.
What type of shop would I need to take my car to, in order or them to have a knowledgeable person read this sort of stuff? I am thinking it will take advanced knowledge to be able to interpret this data.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Today, I cleaned the EGR. I did not find any gunk it in. I sprayed in carb cleaner and it barely came out dirty.

Last week, I had cleaned the trottle body butterly, where the intake tube attached. It is sparkling clean. I also cleaned the IAC valve. The both had decent amount of gunk in them.

I tried to get off the throttle body butterfly section in order to clean it, and find the area for the ERG holes (which I realized might be blocked with carbon deposits). I could not get the butterfly section off. I pulled the 4 bolts but I got stuck. There was another one under this big metal black plate that holds up parts of the EGR tube/sensors system below the air intake tubes. I was able to unbolt the plate from the engine, but I could not unbolt 2 bolts from the plate to a mushroom shaped sensor which is connected to pipped that goes to the EGR.

Is this what I would need to clean when I clean the "throttle body" or do I need to take off the entire silver thing which is connected to the engine?
 
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