Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Car - 2003 Sable, DOHC, bought recently at 84k miles. Good car and very very clean.
1. So, here's my story with the PCV, and hopefully it will help someone in a time of need:
  • Due to home isolation and a massive need for projects in order not to go crazy, I replaced the IAC and TPS with Motorcraft ones (seemed like I had a surge of some sort), all vacuum elbows and hoses, spark plugs and wires, and UIM gaskets. Got a K&N air filter, and cleaned the MAF with correct spray. Also cleaned throttle body, but it was very clean to start with.
  • I decided to also replace the PCV and hose with Motorcraft ones (I had some oil in the UIM, and wanted to be safe). I bought a 7/8 deep socket to assist me.
  • Upon inspection of the PCV, I realized that probably someone tried to replace it before, because the square corners were completely rounded :oops:. I could actually fit a 17mm socket on it, which didn't do anything.
  • 1 hr later, 11pm, after trying all sockets I had, I remembered the hose technique. I didn't have a 5/8 hose, but I cut a PCV new dorman elbow I had in a drawer. I attached it to a 1/2 extension. It snugly fit the PCV on the car, but, to my desperation, didn't have enough grip to turn the valve.
  • I was ready to remove the UIM, when I had another idea. I smeared the inside of the "hose tool" I had made with superglue, put it on the valve, then waited 15 min. I was able to remove the valve in 1 turn! See pics of the tool and valve, with obvious previous attempts at removing it.
  • I used the 7/8 to install the new one, and 10 min later everything was back together.
Part 2 with questions:
This also happened randomly before replacing PCV. It may be normal, but I am paranoid about idle and stalling.
  • In park and drive, with AC OFF, idle stays put at about 670. No oscillations. These idle numbers I am throwing here are from Torque Pro, not the tach.
  • When AC kicks IN, idle drops to 550 for 1-2 seconds, then goes back to about 650. There's also a very slight dimming in the dash lights for a second.
  • When AC cycles OFF, idle jumps to about 800, then slowly goes back to about 700. I feel a slight whole car jerk when the ac turns off, as the rmp goes higher. Engine never stalled, and doesn't feel like it's going to, but I feel a change in vibration every time AC cycles ON or OFF.
Also, AC cools beautifully. It stays at about 48F when idling, in 88F Florida weather.
Are these normal reactions to the AC? I am so caught up in my mind that I don't know what's normal or not any more.
Any input is appreciated, and I hope this PCV superglue last resort will help someone in the future :)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,912 Posts
I have 3 '03's DOHC in my herd, and had '01. I made the tool using a wood 3/4" square and whittling the end to a taper. Heated the pipe coupling with a hot air gun and used the wood to shape it along with channel locks to square it up. Tape makes the PCV stick in place for install. PCV is critical for idle speed. I have had low idle due to stuck PCV and high idle due to quick and dirty Autozone one.
As to idle speed in general. Assume OE PCV in good condition. When A/C clutch is engaged, the "blind system" adds a fixed amount of added volts to the IAC to match the anticipated load of the properly working A/C. If the IAC does not react proper, or the A/C uses more/less load then the idle will run high/low, maybe for a few seconds, or on and on. The PS also triggers the idle to step up to match that load. Idling in gear, turn the steering wheel hard and if the idle slows or speeds up, then the IAC is not working right.
-chart-
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,008 Posts
Might try cleaning the IAC with MAF cleaner and put a drop of oil in the shaft where it enters the solenoid body.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I have 3 '03's DOHC in my herd, and had '01. I made the tool using a wood 3/4" square and whittling the end to a taper. Heated the pipe coupling with a hot air gun and used the wood to shape it along with channel locks to square it up. Tape makes the PCV stick in place for install. PCV is critical for idle speed. I have had low idle due to stuck PCV and high idle due to quick and dirty Autozone one.
As to idle speed in general. Assume OE PCV in good condition. When A/C clutch is engaged, the "blind system" adds a fixed amount of added volts to the IAC to match the anticipated load of the properly working A/C. If the IAC does not react proper, or the A/C uses more/less load then the idle will run high/low, maybe for a few seconds, or on and on. The PS also triggers the idle to step up to match that load. Idling in gear, turn the steering wheel hard and if the idle slows or speeds up, then the IAC is not working right.
-chart-
Much appreciated. Will try
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have 3 '03's DOHC in my herd, and had '01. I made the tool using a wood 3/4" square and whittling the end to a taper. Heated the pipe coupling with a hot air gun and used the wood to shape it along with channel locks to square it up. Tape makes the PCV stick in place for install. PCV is critical for idle speed. I have had low idle due to stuck PCV and high idle due to quick and dirty Autozone one.
As to idle speed in general. Assume OE PCV in good condition. When A/C clutch is engaged, the "blind system" adds a fixed amount of added volts to the IAC to match the anticipated load of the properly working A/C. If the IAC does not react proper, or the A/C uses more/less load then the idle will run high/low, maybe for a few seconds, or on and on. The PS also triggers the idle to step up to match that load. Idling in gear, turn the steering wheel hard and if the idle slows or speeds up, then the IAC is not working right.
-chart-
Idling in gear, tried turning hard with AC on and AC off. Idle doesn't move
 

·
Has It Been That Long?
Joined
·
12,056 Posts
Everything seems normal to me. I think some of the prior responders saw keywords and just responded on autopilot since we see a lot of questions. You're not feeling any unusual kicks or power loss with the AC on, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Everything seems normal to me. I think some of the prior responders saw keywords and just responded on autopilot since we see a lot of questions. You're not feeling any unusual kicks or power loss with the AC on, right?
I feel a different vibration when the AC kicks in, and the RPM's drop for 2 sec. I also feel a jolt when the AC cycles OFF, and the RPM goes up to 800, before coming down to 700.
Other than that, no power loss when driving or idling, nor anything else unusual. I believe you are right - everything is normal, other than my paranoid attempt to fix problems that probably aren't there :)
Thanks for the reply :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Well, that's good, and that IAC is new. Makes my brain wonder about that clutch assy. on the compressor. (or just that compressor). That surging isn't "normal" no matter what anyone says/thinks. Oh yea, I had some rounding on my PCV as well but since it's just a twist lock it was nothing a small pair of old craftsman robo-grip pliers wouldn't take care of! (no marring and actually put the new one in with them, that's good fiber reinforced abs!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Well, a couple of days ago everything seems to have settled somehow :(. Maybe the TPS was still being "broken in"? I don't know, but here's a video of what the idle is in gear, with AC on. Seems really good. Under the hood, I can hear that the compressor is rattling a bit. Other than that, it seems to have calmed down and runs and idles very well...
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top