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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got back from the alignment shop after lowering the front of my car. They said the problem with my alignment that they can't fix is caster and camber. The measurements for caster on the front is L = 5 degrees and R = 5.2 degrees. For caster the closest they could get was L = -1.3 degrees and R = -1.4 degrees. The back is fine. Is this amount of caster and camber a problem? They also said that in order to fix it i would have to lower tha back too. Keep in mind that because of my stereo the back of my car is still about an inch lower than the front. I lowered the front to match the back. I used H&R springs and KYB struts if that helps.
 

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You said "caster" for both measurements, so I'm not sure which is which :D I assume the first is caster and the second is camber. For my gen 3 the pass range for front camber is -1.1 to +0.1. Caster is +2.8 to +4.8. You did not say the year of your car.

At least on the gen 3, level does not mean the same gap front and rear. There is more gap in the front.

I just put Eibach springs in my car. I cut the welds on the camber adjustment plate on top of the strut tower, but on the left front they were only able to get camber to -1.25, so still a bit off. I'll need to enlarge the alignement holes in the top of the tower for them to get it all the way in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i have a gen3 and the second is camber. But are these alignment specs an actual problem or are they just out of spec.
 

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The problem is that the Taurus was not designed with lowering in mind. Its a family sedan and ride comfort was most important.

The camber can be corrected with camber plates, or simply cutting the welds on the strut tower top plates. Find a reputable shop that will do it, or do it yourself and return to the aligmnet shop.

Search the Suspension and Brake forum for more answers.... this is an old topic that has been beaten to death.
 
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Mine are still off, but it's fine with me. Im going to correct it (like spridget said) by drilling through the spot welds at the top plates.


Sal
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is anyone familiar with the Mr. Tire chain. They are the premier alignment/tire/suspension shop around here and they suck. They attempted to do what you are saying. In the end i waited 4 hours and nothing was accomplished. They couldn't fix the camber, scraped off all the paint from the top of the plate, and burnt my passenger side cowl until it turned white. At least they didn't charge me. I've had enough of reputable shops.
 

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Originally posted by spy2520@Aug 13 2004, 07:44 PM
Is anyone familiar with the Mr. Tire chain. They are the premier alignment/tire/suspension shop around here and they suck. They attempted to do what you are saying. In the end i waited 4 hours and nothing was accomplished. They couldn't fix the camber, scraped off all the paint from the top of the plate, and burnt my passenger side cowl until it turned white. At least they didn't charge me. I've had enough of reputable shops.
Sorry to say it, but that "reputable" shop probrably had a 17 year old kid working on your car. I've known a few people who worked for those chain stores, they all had plaques on the wall saying ASE certified techs, but almost all the employees doing the work out back had just gotten home from high school, and where not very smart either.

Try to find a local independant mechanic that knows what you're talking about, a place like pep boys, sears, or any other general auto center is not the way to go, as many of their employees are either dumb, or the shop will not have a clue what you're talking about and they'll just toally screw it up any you'll be at a loss.

Look for a small local machanic with older employees, they will most likely be able to do it correctly. Or better yet find a friend who's good with tools.
 
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