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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone,

This is how I replaced the front motor mount on my Gen IV Duratec SEL.

Symptoms: The car didn't lurch or bump at all, but there was quite a bit of oil stains on the subframe, and at idle, NVH was slightly more than average. There was 155K on this mount when it took a dump.

Pre Cautions: DO NOT BUY ANCHOR MOUNTS. I bought two and both were defective :angry:

OEM mount cost $157 :(
NAPA mount cost $55, I hear these are alright.




What you will need:


2-4 hours (I am a former shop tech, and have a decent amount of experience). I was attacking this job at a leisurely pace at best. My guessing is that if I tried, I could do this in 45 minutes or less.

Coolant catch thingy

Phillips screwdriver (I used a #2 bit)

Flat screwdriver

8 mm allen wrench

Pliers to undo the radiator clamps

Ford Plastic Snaps (get a whole box at Autozone, they are like $4)

Jack and Piece of wood

5.5 mm
8 mm
10 mm
15 mm
13/16" sockets
Universal Joint (wobbly) adapter (Must have)
2-4" extension

I used 1/2" sockets for the most part, but 3/8" works also.



I would normally use an impact and shop tools to speed up the process greatly, but for kicks, I did it all with spanners and simple hand tools just to experience it for a change.









Now the fun begins:

1. Jack up the passenger side of the car and secure it on a jackstand.
No pic needed, if you don't know how to do this, I suggest not doing the job yourself. :)

2. Remove the wheel.

3. With the Phillips Screwdriver remove three screws that are holding the inner shield nearer to the front of the vehicle. This shield is also "stapled" to the subframe and secured by a plastic snap in the middle as well.

4. Bend the staples out, and then pry with the Flat Screwdriver at the snap. This should be fairly easy to do, and the shield should come out with little effort. After that, you should be able to see the motor mount. Say hello! I removed the 10 mm bolt holding the brake line to the car, but am not sure if it was necessary. I don't recall.





5. Now going to the front of the car, remove the plastic shield on the bottom of the car. I have no idea what it's called, so here's the picture.
You will need the 8mm socket and the 5.5mm socket for this. There were 4 8mm bolts for me and 4 5.5 mm bolts.


6. My car also had this (not sure about others) and it was held in place by the same 5.5 mm bolt/screws that were holding the front of the shield in place. It also had 4 snaps holding it in as well.


7. When the shield is removed, you should be able to see the radiator drain plug. This is what I used the 8mm allen wrench for. I don't know what the outer size is, but obviously whatever size it is, you can use a socket as well. Undo the plug and watch the car take a leak. Notice in the 3rd pic of this step that it's draining out the angled spout as well. If your car is even 1.5 - 2 ft off the ground, that translates into a foot of spraying horizontally. I suck at technical writing, but all I am saying is, get a long tray/catch can if you can like mine. Narrow trays might not catch all the coolant.








8. Let car drain, it took 5 minutes for my car to empty itself on 80 degree weather.

9. (Sorry, no picture) There is a small bracket on the opposite side of the radiator that is covering the lower outlet hose. There are 4 8mm bolts holding it in. Remove the bracket and expose the lower radiator hose.



10. Remove the hose clamp with pliers, but be careful, coolant can come out still in large quantities. :( I took a coolant bath, but for the good of the write up, I grabbed my camera and snapped a picture! Then wiped myself off and changed shirts. I'd say a couple pints landed on me.




11. (I can't find the pic, sorry) There is a small hose just in front (towards the front of the car) which is really easy to access. Remove the clamp and disconnect the hose.

12. The point of removing these hoses is so that we can stuff our wrench in there! Push the hoses out of the way so that there's a straight shot to the 15mm bolts. But, wait...

13. Undo the bottom nut (13/16") of the motor mount. (Pic shows nut removed obviously). Notice all the oil on the subframe.



14. Place jack and piece of wood under the oil pan. Jack up the motor until you see the bottom bolt of the mount move ever so slightly.



Before jacking....


After jacking....sorry, I took the picture at a different angle. Notice the white area on the bolt, it's just a tiny bit shorter now.




15. Now grab your 15mm, Wobbly, Extension and Ratchet. Feeling your way in, you align the socket on the motor mount bolts and remove both. I like to use my left hand fed through the wheel well to guide the socket and my right hand holding the wrench. I am left handed, but I still didn't have any trouble loosening these bolts with the right.







16. With the motor mount loose now, go back to the jack, and jack the engine up a few inches. You need to lift it high enough to slide the motor mount out under the serpentine belt. I wiggled the mount out of the subframe, laid it on it's side, and then scooted it under the serpentine belt.




17. There it is!



Notice how it's collapsed next to the new one. Again, don't make the same mistake that I made! Don't buy cheap mounts, the new one in the picture ruptured the moment I set the engine on it. So did the next one. I ultimately bought an OEM mount and forked over some big cash. Funny enough, it looked crappier than the Anchor mounts, but it works a lot better. I have heard of many people using Autozone mounts and having them fail in a year, so I decided this would be a wiser investment.




Installation is going to be opposite of removal. The only tips I have on installing the new mount are to feed the bolts in by hand plenty before using a wrench. I ended up cross threading both motor mount bolts, so I impacted them on and it took a good 30 seconds of impact time on each one. Also, I suggest replacing the coolant if it needs it. My coolant looked good, but for $25, you can't beat the peace of mind in my opinion.

As of now, I've only driven the car 10 miles since the write up, but it is definitely smoother than it was before, and the engine barely moves when I do the motor mount test.

Hope this helps, and happy motor mounting!
 

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Nice write-up. Thank you. 19mm (3/4in.) socket or wrench fit the radiator petcock. Retighten by hand only when finished (or youll be using an allen wrench to open and close). Piece of scrap fuel or vacuum hose over petcock tube helps redirect coolant flow. Mods, can we place this in the topic finder and/or wiki?
 

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I need to get around to doing this. I have some old OEM mounts I got from another member that I'll fill with urethane, so I never have to do it again.
 

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? on Taurus Mounts Great Detail

Thank You so Much for the very detailed decription on replacing the mount and advice on purchasing the oem. I have to do my Daughters and only want to do it once.. I do have a question. Her 2000 taurus is kinda jumping when backing up. I have replaced all 4 sway bar connectors and all 4 struts. He rengine does move back and forth but doesn't seem to jump. Not sure if Trans mount or engine. Any suggetsions
 

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if mounts are good the jumping might be trans slippage. lack of fluid and filter changes on the taurus trans are a bad thing
 

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That lower coolant pipe looks ugly in the pictures.
 

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Terrific write up. I almost got the mount out but didn't disconnect the lower radiator hose. Now I will drain coolant, drain hose and go from there.

Do you know how to remove the rear mount. Saw that one and see you can remove the lower nut on the mount but it has a long bolt going thru the mount. How do you keep the bolt from turning? Don't see how you can get a tool behind the bolt to hold it while using a socket on the nut. Can you please explain this for me. What do you do to remove it after taking the nut off the bolt and raising the engine. Should the front mount be loose when doing this so the engine will go up when jacking under the oil pan?

BIGHANK
 

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Did the front mount after removing the lower radiator hose and a bracket on the right corner preventing access to the front hose clamp.

Still a little mystified by the rear mount. Do you just take the two nuts off the bolts going thru the mount and thru the frame and wiggle the mount off the horizontal bolt or what?
 

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If you have to put a wrench on the back of the horizontal bolt how do you access it?

Did the front mount after removing the lower radiator hose and a bracket on the right corner preventing access to the front hose clamp.

Still a little mystified by the rear mount. Do you just take the two nuts off the bolts going thru the mount and thru the frame and wiggle the mount off the horizontal bolt or what?
Factory manual implies that the horizontal bolt going thru the mount is not welded to the mounting stud. Do not see where or how you can get a wrench or socket on the bolt end when loosening or tightening the nut which holds the mount tightly in the bracket. How do you do this?
 

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cross threaded mine as well

I hand started both bolts on the front right mount, and half way in hit a wall. Took the mount off, tried threading....same issue. How did you get an impact wrench up in that small space, where I could barely fit a ratchet?
Also, any chance of my catching the original thread, or am I "screwed" ? (sorry, couldn't resist). Awesome thread. Thanks.
 

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You actually don't have to pull the wheel or the small hose

but taking the serpentine belt off the tensioner makes it much easier.

I did this today with the car up on ramps and used a stubby 3/8" ratchet to thread the bolts back in and a 25" breaker bar to break torque on them when I started.

The mount still has to go out the wheel well and I'm still wondering why the Ford shop manual calls for dropping the downpipe from the front exhaust manifold.

Total time just shy of 2 hours which isn't bad considering Pep Boys labor table showed this taking 1.8 hrs.
 
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