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Well RJ, I have not altered the fluid level. A little leaked both times I removed the pressure port plug to check for pressure (before I got the test kit). My understanding is that if the fluid isnt circulating it will show overfilled (same as if the car is off) which, im told, is why the fluid is checked while the engine is running.The fluid is kidna redish-brown. I dont know when if ever the fluid has been changed. My mom got this car at 30k miles, and it has 80k on it now.

I will test the solenoids this afternoon.

wait.. coffee... ok

Hey Azazel, I certainly hope there is information here that other could use. I know there is some very experienced people on this forum. I read alot of it before I made my post, but, as it turns out, I dont think my transmission problem was very different at all...
Anyway, I'm certainly no transmission mechanic, but I did stay at a holiday.. no wait ;) I did obtain a service manual for the transmission. I hope this helps.

Line pressure Diagnosis Chart:
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HIGH at IDLE - ALL RANGES Possible Source:
Wiring Harness
EPC Solenoid
Main Regulator Valve
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LOW at IDLE - ALL RANGES Possible Source:
Low fluid level
Fluid inlet filter/Seal
Main Control Body
Cross leaks
Gaskets
Pump
Separator Plate
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LOW in PARK ONLY Possible Source:
Valve Body
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LOW in REVERSE ONLY Possible Source:
Separator Plate
Reverse Clutch
Valve Body
Forward Clutch
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LOW in NEUTRAL ONLY Possible Source:
Valve Body
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LOW in OVERDRIVE ONLY Possible Source:
Forward Clutch
Valve Body
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LOW in DRIVE ONLY Possible Source:
Forward Clutch
Valve Body
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LOW in MANUAL 1ST ONLY Possible Source:
Forward Clutch
Valve Body
Oh sweet, yeah that does help me. Thank you. I found that the pressure sbould be between 20-30psi. Anything under or over is a bad pressure switch ( solenoid) and being that you have codes, that's probably going to be your case.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I obtained the manual because the reality it seems with these transmissions is that the torque converter will need to be changed. I sincerely hope not, but would like to be prepared.

Sorry RJ, all I saw in your post was DTC code numbers and descriptions. Possibly the 'pinpoint' test procedures are not displaying correctly on my screen...

I will perform some tests on the solenoids this afternoon, and post the results.
 

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I obtained the manual because the reality it seems with these transmissions is that the torque converter will need to be changed. I sincerely hope not, but would like to be prepared.

Sorry RJ, all I saw in your post was DTC code numbers and descriptions. Possibly the 'pinpoint' test procedures are not displaying correctly on my screen...

I will perform some tests on the solenoids this afternoon, and post the results.
I sent the Pinpoint test PDF in a private message.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Oh crap Rj I'm so sorry. I've been a bit grouchy, and distracted today. I will look at them tonight. I pulled the harness connector and it had petina on pins 2 and 10. I got a bit excited for a minute. I cleaned the connector and jack thoroughly, and retested. Same result no drive any gear.
The pressure is really zero all the time on the main line. I tested the epc port, no pressure there either. I tried testing several of the pins on the jack side of the transmission. I'm not really good with electric stuff, but the ohms between pins 9 and 10 was OPEN, and between 9 and 3 OPEN. The manual I have says pin 9 i signal return (??ground??) pin 3 Torque converter clutch, and 10 Electronic pressure control solenoid. I got low ohms on 2 of the 3 shift solenoids.

I MAY have tested wrong I need to look at the pdf RJ has sent.

The whine is going away, it pops in and out intermittently. mostly out now. The new meter is good. It has alot of information. I cleared the codes, and none returned.

I ran the the two tests for ford. engine off, and engine on. P1000 unable to perform system readiness test I think it said.

Anyway, I was unable to open the oil pan because I need the car in the garage to do that, and I need help to do that. I only have one class tomorrow, and I am going to skip that. I have 3 days to get this fixed!!

If I havent said it lately, I really appreciate the help. Thanks :)
 

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If those codes haven't returned and you have near zero pressure, then your initial diagnosis of a converter spline or pump issue may be correct.

Since you want to be definitive before pulling the transmission, the correct procedure is to check both the line pressure tap and the EPC pressure tap. See attached.

Ignore P1000. That's emissions related and needs drive cycles to clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
if the trasmission needs to be removed, what other things should I replace, She has deciced to drive the money out of the car. Should we replace the pump seals?

What other things would you guys do while you were there ?

:)
 

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Well it
if the trasmission needs to be removed, what other things should I replace, She has deciced to drive the money out of the car. Should we replace the pump seals?

What other things would you guys do while you were there ?

:)
Well if it were me and i had trouble codes to at least go off of like you do, i would take the side cover off and replace the torque converter pressure solenoid at minimum. But if i had tge cash, I'd replace them all. Then I'd drop the main pan and put in a new filter. From what i gather, the clutches used are not good quality so they wear out fast which clogs the filter faster and starts the chain reaction of stressing the pumps and solenoids.
I'd much rather do that first before i HAD to drop the tranny. Especially from a short term financial cost and what will probably be days of labor DIY.
Since i don't have electrical codes, I'm not replacing my solenoids. Im going to just change the filter, use some Lucas and send it on its way.
Even if your tc and solenoids are bad, you may have burnt clutches and a new tc and solenoids may not help much sooo....personaly i would fix what you KNOW is wrong and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Sorry I havent updated. I was a total b*tch friday, and everyone was miserable...

So, AFAIK all the solenoids are good. they all passed voltage, and resistance checks. I did not test the temp sensor, PCM, or, wiring harness.

I opened the oil pan there was ALOT of fluid. close to 7 quarts I think. (I measured) The filter did not seemed to be clogged because fluid poured into it ran through.

I figure, with the help I have received here, that it will be the same problem as the rest. we will find out today.

We spent about $600 on tools, and jacked the car up eleventy feet in the air, so it all ready to come out.

I'm sure we will have it back in by lunch ;) LOL
 

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I did my service yesterday and had to put 7 1/2 qts back in. Magnet had little broken pieces of pump shaft im assuming caused by me im sure after i first bought the car. Lots of clutch material on magnet. New filter in and resued the old gasket. Pan even says its a reusable gasket.
I supplemented a qt of fluid with a full bottle of Lucas. I drove it around last night for an hour or so and there was a remarkable improvement. 1rst gear clutch is still a little weak till 10mph or so, grabs with light acceleration and a little pedal feathering till it fully grabs, but strong after that.
Sorry you're having to drop yours out like that. That sucks😒
 

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Discussion Starter #30
We spent about 2 hours yesterday removing the transmission. I got real sick and slept most of the day away. got back up last night and finished pulling it out. Around 4 hours total. Not bad really, the top bolt on the back and some bracket on the top were the most annoying.

Anyway, the splines on the torque converter are clearly stripped. I got some pics I will post later. I am at school. I have a math test today I did not study for this weekend :(
 

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Glad you were able to confirm the problem and your car will soon be back on the road!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
we got a new torque converter & seal, seal kit. Pump shaft, seal, bushing, and bearing. Also a new filter and 3 gal fluid. About $200. Not bad I think.

My plan is to work on installing the parts at night this week, and hopefully get it reinstalled this weekend. I will post later this week and let you guys know how its going ;)

Here is a pic of the converter. I'm sure everyone here has seen this before, but the teeth in the center are certainly rounded.

215801
 

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Make sure the fluid is Mercon V. The capacity is 13.6 quarts so you'll need another gallon.

It's recommended to flush the cooler lines to remove any remaining debris.

Good luck with the work!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
groan I got Dextron III I think. Thats what the parts store guy recommended... Dad put +4 in EVERYTHING automatic....

The converter is larger somehow. thicker? I think. When I took it out of the box I was unsure it was the right one. I still have to take the core back. maybe I could return the fluid?

I have some time this morning, I will snap a pic of the two converters.

Thanks for the help guys :)
 

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Yes return the fluid. The parts store guy was wrong. Order Supertech Mercon V for order pickup at a Walmart who has it in stock. It's licensed and the best price you'll find. Get extra and you can return what you don't use and also refresh the power steering fluid.

Let us know what torque converter you got and from where. Maybe someone can help verify if it's correct.
 

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I remember when I was looking for a new torque converter for my '02 I was finding different part numbers on the websites of a couple suppliers so I just called Dacco directly and they confirmed the part number for me and said they were working with a couple auto parts stores to fix the errors.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Sorry I have not updated lately. CRAZY week! I almost failed my math test because I didnt study, I had to goto the dentist, Oh yeah, and the transmission had to come back out!

Yep, we had the transmission all installed with the frame up, still the wheels and exahust taken apart, and discovered that the speed sensor or some sensor was not installed. Try as we did we could not get it back in. Even my girl arms were too big to fit between the exahust manifold and the top of the transmission!

Of course you cant lower the transmission while its attached to the engine (it would follow it), and you cant lower the transmission without removing the subframe.... So, yeah, basically we had to take it all back out. Sucked

So I still have the wheels, and exhaust, then all the little stuff, air filter, battery etc. I am anxious to see if my repair work! I have never done one without dad...

I will let you guys know how it turned out in a few days. Also I will repost pressure tests! :)
 

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groan I am soo sore... Everything but the hood is back on. I put the fluid in, but I think between what spilled out, and not having enough its still too low to do much.

I ran it for about 5 min idle. drive and reverse want to pull, but I really want to get proper oil level. It needs coolant too, a little leaked during the process...

FWIW I did flush the cooler. I used transflush. I will pickup some more fluid tomorrow after school.

It was recommended to me that I flush the transmission after a hundred or so miles (since I did internal work), so I decided to go ahead and use the cheaper dextron III/mercon fluid for now. Soon I will flush it again, and use mercon V.

I will pressure test it tomorrow evening and post the reuslt.

Fingers Crossed :)
 
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