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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!

I searched the forum thoroughly, and I still need help! My moms car quit the other day while driving only about 20 mph. the transmission doesnt pull in any gear even if the engine is revved.

I saw many posts about bad torque converters, and I found a YT video where a guy shows how to check by pulling the pressure port plug. I did that and fluid shot out . In the video he said how no fluid would come out if the torque converter was bad, so I'm guessing the pump and converter are good?

Anyway I found posts about not pulling in any gear, but its always assumed to be the torque converter or pump were bad. Assumming the pump and converter are good, does anyone have any ideas about anything else it could be?

There is def a noticeable whine. not as bad as an old PS pump, but not normal either.

stick fluid way too high (went down after some sprayed out of the port)
noticeable whine
no pull in any selector position
cable is not broken
fluid pumps out of pressure port
2004 Taurus SE - Duratec
80k miles
 

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hmmm, that's an interesting one. I've had to replace a torque converter for the similar engine/symptoms except I didn't have any pressure at the port. Hopefully someone with more transmission experience can chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Horns, I am out ouf class today and was hoping to get some work done on it. My dad did all the diagnosis but showed me how to work on them. If i knew what to I might could fix it. I am going to go try the code reader.
 

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make sure you plug the code reader into the port before you turn the ignition on
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hey thanks for the reply, that didnt work either. I only have 2 classes today, so I will swing by the parts store and see if they will loan me one.

I was doing some reading and was wondering if the EPC solenoid fails would it case this condition. Also noticed that the shift solenoids are 'normally open' if first gear solenoid failed that would mean reverse would alos not work too right?

And I guess L2 wouldnt work because it has to begin with 1st??

I have to get this fixed fast we are cash/transportation strapped!

Thanks for the help guys :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry I haven't updated this thread! I have been unable to properly diagnose this problem. When its very cold, the transmission (just barely) acts like it wants to pull so I'm guessing a problem with the shift solenoids or valve body. ??Stuck it second or third gear??

For anyone reading this I found out that often the cigarette light fuse is connected to the OBD port and can cause the meter to not read. In fact the fuse was blown, but after replacing it I still got a 'link error' on the scanner. So I have no way to get the codes.

I helped my dad rebuild a few of these when I was younger, but diagnosing them is very different. If he was here he would know what to do...

I think we are just going to sell the car as-is, because I dont feel comfortable spending time and money on parts without knowing exactly what repair I'm doing.
 

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Have you tried to drain the fluid down to the proper level?. I don't know much about automatic trannies but I do know they are sensitive to fluid levels and types. It won't cost much to try.
 

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Just because you have some port pressure doesn't mean it's enough to lock the clutch packs together. Could be that the converter had a partial spline failure and it's still turning the pump shaft but slipping enough to where you're only getting 10 or 20psi of fluid pressure at the pump. The pump could also still be bad as well. Since your fluid level at the stick isn't dropping then I'm pretty confident it's a fluid pressure issue. Only real way to find out why is to pull the transmission. I suppose you could remove the valve body to get to the pump shaft while it's still in the car but the effort required isn't worth it when it's likely just a bad converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
First, thanks for the replies.

I'm not taking anything apart until I know exactly what needs to be done. My boyfriend would help me pull it if needed. My uncle was supposed to help, but he lives 2 hrs away, and is now complaining.... whatever. I could do the work, I just need someone (physically) to help.

What I'm afraid is that I would do more work than is required. For example remove the transmission only to find out it is a solenoid that could have been replaced while in the car.

There (seems) to be good pressure from the pressure port, but I can put that to rest. As ICE said maybe it is not enough. The pressure tester I can rent, and do tomorrow. I think there is a compression tester around here somewhere, but they are probably different than hydraulic....

Still I wish I could get the codes....
 

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Have you tried your scan tool on another car to see if it works?

Do you have 12 V and ground at the correct pins on the OBDII connector? Always use a test light to test power circuits, as a DMM will give false readings due to its high input impedance.

A pressure gauge is a pressure gauge. All mechanical pressure gauges work using a Bordon tube for pressure measurement. If you can get a compression tester adapted to the pressure fitting on the trans, it will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the info Jeff. The scanner is a Acetron or some such. It worked on a 2000 civic, and 2003 jeep GC, I have not tested it on other cars. I had not thought of testing the pins. I will try and figure that out today or tomorrow. I only have three classes this semester, so I have a 'little' extra time.

I will research the test procedure this morning, and see if I can perform the pressure test this afternoon.

Thanks for the help guys, I really need it ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm going to be late for class, but I did some research on OBD2. My scanner is actron cp9135. It has pins (7&15) for K-line, and L-line which the 04 taurus has, but it does not have pins (6&14) for CAN Bus High & CAN bus low.

gotta run. :)
 

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Download Forscan for free (google it) and get a ELM327 OBDII interface for $25 or so on Ebay or Amazon. Forscan is nearly a dealer level scan tool for Fords and most Mazdas that allow you to read all code types (P, B, C and U series), display multiple PIDS in graphical form, or as gauges, and a ton of other very useful diagnostic stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Whew! what a day! Ok, so I got 2 things today. A pressure tester, and a new code thing.

Sorry I didnt see your post first Jeff, but thanks for the tip :)

It looks like bad news the line pressure was less than 10 at idle with the car warmed up. At 2000 rpm it was only 40psi :(

The codes are P750 and P743. I guess it could still be a bad solenoid? I dont know..... I still have a paper to write for tomorrow I have spent enough time on this today....

Thanks for the help :)
 

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This might help some, but im following this tread as well.
I bought a really nice 97 sable with ax4n trans and 120,000 miles for $350. My issue is it seems to lack pressure (slow going and have to rev it) in 1st and reverse only when its cold (Colorado). It doesn't like being in overdrive untill after 30 or so. Its better in Drive.
After it warms up a good bit and im easy on the gas i drive, not over drive, its not so bad and is drivable. Reverse works better too. Does fine and acts normal 2nd-4th.....i don't have any codes, no stored codes or check engine light on....so with no codes im starting to rule out solenoids or the speed sensor. I checked my speedometer with Google maps and it was correct.
I may still do a flush and drain with new filter, but past that im assuming the converter is going out.
 

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First step: Have you corrected the fluid level yet?

What is the condition of the fluid? When was it last changed?

Once you get the fluid level / condition correct, clear the codes and see which ones return.

The codes are saying you have a problem with the shift solenoid and the TCC solenoid.
 

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P0750, P0753SSASSA solenoid circuit failure.Solenoid 1 circuit failed to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM drive failure during on-board diagnostic.



P0743TCCTCC solenoid circuit failure during on-board diagnostic.TCC solenoid circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM drive failure during on-board diagnostic.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well RJ, I have not altered the fluid level. A little leaked both times I removed the pressure port plug to check for pressure (before I got the test kit). My understanding is that if the fluid isnt circulating it will show overfilled (same as if the car is off) which, im told, is why the fluid is checked while the engine is running.The fluid is kidna redish-brown. I dont know when if ever the fluid has been changed. My mom got this car at 30k miles, and it has 80k on it now.

I will test the solenoids this afternoon.

wait.. coffee... ok

Hey Azazel, I certainly hope there is information here that other could use. I know there is some very experienced people on this forum. I read alot of it before I made my post, but, as it turns out, I dont think my transmission problem was very different at all...
Anyway, I'm certainly no transmission mechanic, but I did stay at a holiday.. no wait ;) I did obtain a service manual for the transmission. I hope this helps.

Line pressure Diagnosis Chart:
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HIGH at IDLE - ALL RANGES Possible Source:
Wiring Harness
EPC Solenoid
Main Regulator Valve
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LOW at IDLE - ALL RANGES Possible Source:
Low fluid level
Fluid inlet filter/Seal
Main Control Body
Cross leaks
Gaskets
Pump
Separator Plate
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LOW in PARK ONLY Possible Source:
Valve Body
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LOW in REVERSE ONLY Possible Source:
Separator Plate
Reverse Clutch
Valve Body
Forward Clutch
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LOW in NEUTRAL ONLY Possible Source:
Valve Body
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LOW in OVERDRIVE ONLY Possible Source:
Forward Clutch
Valve Body
--------------------------------------------
LOW in DRIVE ONLY Possible Source:
Forward Clutch
Valve Body
--------------------------------------------
LOW in MANUAL 1ST ONLY Possible Source:
Forward Clutch
Valve Body
 

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Since you have transmission manual, you are now the expert!

In case you didn't see it, I sent you the Pinpoint tests for the two codes.

Fluid level is checked when running AND at operating temperature which takes some time for the ATF.

You have some circulation so maybe that is enough to check the level.

Reddish brown fluid at 80k is a bit of a worry. Not changed may mean the level is ok but contamination may be affecting solenoid performance.

You have two trouble codes for two solenoids so maybe it's electrical / harness / connectors or worse case PCM.

But the ideal thing to do is drop the pan, change the filter, change the fluid, clear the codes and see what codes come back.

You could follow the Pinpoint tests for the codes first but you then haven't ruled out fluid related issues.
 
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