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Discussion Starter #1
Brothers, Ive just began having a problem with my 2001 taurus 3.0 engine. While driving seems to be fine but on rare occasion when comming to a stop the engine would shut off. No codes. All the dash lights are on as if the key was turned to the on position before cranking. I then put the car onto park or N and would start up without hesitation. The engine would not stumble or shutter, just shut off. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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You should check for codes with a scan tool. It might another bad battery (car is running completely off the alternator until you slow down).
 

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Welcome to TCCA.

The IAC is responsible for maintaining idle speed, so if it's dirty, sticking, or otherwise acting out, it can cause the kind of problem your having. So, you might remove & clean it with a plastic safe cleaner & see if it'll clear things up. Cleaning might not last, it didn't for me on my Ranger & probably why Ford recommends replacement rather than cleaning, but cleaning was a good trouble shooting step for me.

More thoughts for your suspect list, let us know how it goes.
 

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Thanks for all the feedback. I have attached a code reader and have found no codes. Your battery theroy is interesting and will check the voltage this afternoon but it has never hesitated or turned slow as if a weak battery. If it is the IAC, would there show any codes?? I am willing to try a new one if this is the fact. I have read some unsuscessful results with cleaning them. This is my Daughters car and dont want to take chances of her stranded. Thanks....
 

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Thanks for all the feedback. I have attached a code reader and have found no codes. Your battery theroy is interesting and will check the voltage this afternoon but it has never hesitated or turned slow as if a weak battery. If it is the IAC, would there show any codes?? I am willing to try a new one if this is the fact. I have read some unsuscessful results with cleaning them. This is my Daughters car and dont want to take chances of her stranded. Thanks....
Good way to check IAC. Idling warm in N A/C off. Note rpm. Put in gear, holding brake. Idle should only change a tick, maybe 50 rpm. Turn on A/C and idle rpm should not change. Turn steering wheel hard one way, rpm should not change. Maybe just a little change but the car's system adjust idle rpm with the IAC. It has no feedback so the signal is sent but it does not know if the IAC actually moved.

I have cleaned 3 of mine with naptha (or mineral spirits) and Q-tips. Lots of black gunk gets in it. I then oil the shaft with a drop of oil. All worked fine.

-chart-
 

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Yes there are codes for a faulty IAC, but I don't remember anyone posting any over the years & my Ranger never set any IAC codes, but cleaning it's IAC cleared the problem for about a year, then they returned, so I replaced it.

Before throwing another IAC at the problem, I'd try testing & or removing & cleaning it as Chartmaker suggested & see what happens.

I have heard of another scenario of engine stall when coming to a stop being caused by the torque converter not unlocking. Sorta like coming to a stop with a straight drive & not pushing the clutch in. You can test for that by quickly shifting into "N" when you feel that the engine is about to stall & if it doesn't stall, suspect the torque converter isn't unlocking.
When this scenario begins to happen, the driver should feel the engine surge as though someone were mashing on the accellerator, as the IAC tries to maintain idle speed, so they'll have to mash the brakes harder to stop.
So, you might question the Daughter if this surge feeling has happened when the engine stalls while coming to a stop. If not, suspect an IAC problem.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. When the engine shuts its self off there is no stumbling, surging or stalling. Its almost like the key was turned off but with all the dash lights on. I found a test to check the resistence of the IAC when unplugged. I assume they mean to test across the two terminals. Should be between 6-15 ohms. Ill try to check tonight.
 

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On occasion my 1997 SHO (140K miles, owned the car since 97) won't idle, this only happens when the engine is hot typically after an hour or 2 of highway speeds when the engine is heat soaked. It happens about once out of every 20 times I drive it. It runs perfectly otherwise, good gas mileage and normal power.
When it happens, IF I rev the engine above 2500 it will run. The problem would just go away magically and resurface latter.
I also replaced a bunch of things like the idle air control valve and the relay module,
but that did nothing.
I found the solution, turn the car off (when it won't idle, ignition key has to be off, open the hood shake the wire connector going to the relay module and the car runs perfectly.
Tried cleaning the harness terminal connectors, no help.

I am too lazy to chase this ghost, mine is obviously some flaky conductor or wiring termination. It only takes me less the 1 minute to fix it when it happens and my trick works 100%.

try shaking things a bit, I believe it must be the lead or terminal along the line going to the IACV

got to find the right place to kick it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks

Sorry for waiting so long for another update but I wanted to make sure. I replaced the IAC first. Although it did not stall out as often...it still stalled one or twice. I then replaced the alternator as it was barely putting out 12v anyway. After a new alternator the Taurus has not stalled out yet:)
And that was several months ago. Thanks again for the help, we do appreciate it.
 

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Sorry for waiting so long for another update but I wanted to make sure. I replaced the IAC first. Although it did not stall out as often...it still stalled one or twice. I then replaced the alternator as it was barely putting out 12v anyway. After a new alternator the Taurus has not stalled out yet:)
And that was several months ago. Thanks again for the help, we do appreciate it.
Good feedback & thanks for closing out your thread. Yup an alternator barely putting out 12 volts is a prime candidate for replacement, as it can cause all sorts of woes. Probably a good idea to have replaced the IAC also, as they're a common problem part in rough idle & idle stall problems.
 

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hey guys i kinda have the same problem with my 99 sable 3.0l v6...mine only stalls on cold start up..it idles extremely low on cold start up, if i press the gas it dies unless i hold it at 1,000 rpms and when it warms up its fine..and when its in drive and im at a complete stop the idle is it 1k rpm...is it my IAC?
 

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When it is idling low/rough give the IAC a few light wacks with a wrench, small hammer, etc. If the idle comes up / smooths out, clean or replace the IAC.
 

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Having same problem

I am having the same stalling/killing problem with my 94 Taurus GL. Have taken to Ford and they have no idea what the problem is. Replaced fuel pump and CCRM. Had ground problem, fixed it and car ran GREAT, for 2 weeks then stalled again.

Only happens when car is warm and A/C on, at least that's the only time I have experienced it. I have been fighting this for almost a year. It runs great for awhile then it has a couple of episodes, then runs fine until the next "kill".

It seems to happen at stops or very low speeds and it cranks but will not restart immediately. It will start after letting it sit for a few minutes.

Please help.
 

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I am having the same stalling/killing problem with my 94 Taurus GL. Have taken to Ford and they have no idea what the problem is. Replaced fuel pump and CCRM. Had ground problem, fixed it and car ran GREAT, for 2 weeks then stalled again.

Only happens when car is warm and A/C on, at least that's the only time I have experienced it. I have been fighting this for almost a year. It runs great for awhile then it has a couple of episodes, then runs fine until the next "kill".

It seems to happen at stops or very low speeds and it cranks but will not restart immediately. It will start after letting it sit for a few minutes.

Please help.
You may have more than one problem. So review the ground fix. Was it an engine or body, or battery cable ground problem????
Did the second round of stall problems come about after some event????

Do you have a CEL lit, if so, scan the computer for trouble codes & post All code Numbers found, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

If no codes, with it acting out at idle, with the A/C on, the IAC should probably be on your suspect list, as the computer uses it to idle up the engine when we put the tranny into gear, turn the A/C on, turn the steering wheel & the P/S pump loads the engine, or when we turn on heavy electrical loads, so if the IAC acts out it can cause your type of stall mischief.

The TPS should probably be on the suspect list too, as well as the fuel pump & fuel pressure regulator. Just because the fuel pump is new, doesn't automatically earn it a pass!!!!
So when it stalls & won't restart, try cycling the ignition switch from off, to run, 3-4 times (without cranking the engine), then crank it & see if it'll immediately start. If it does, perform a KOEO & KOER fuel pressure check & post the numbers.

If it acts like its going to stall at throttle up, test the TPS resistance range from closed to wide open throttle for resistance open/dead spots.

So you can see a number of things, or combination there-of could cause your problem, so begin with & post any trouble code clues the computer may have stored, Even if the CEL isn't lit.

Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
 
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