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I have a 1997 Taurus that if it sets more than a day the battery will be dead. I changed the battery that didn't help, so I took off the posative battery cable and put my digital tester between the post and cable and it reads 12v of pull (car is not running). I pulled every fuse out, under the hood and under the dash, put them back in one at a time and wached the meter. When I finished I had ten fuses that if I put any one of them in the meter jumped to 12 volts. The fuses are as follow, under the hood, PWR/LK-30amp--DRL-15amp--AIRBAG-10amp--AUDIO-20amp--HORN-15amp--ALT-30amp,Under the dash,STOP LAMP-15amp--RADIO-5amp--WIPERS/VAP-5amp--MIRRORS/ANT-5amp. What do these have in common?
 

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You're getting close, but you need to measure amps not volts. There are usually a few items that will draw a small load like the radio which takes power to remember your preset and also to run the clock. Measure again and find out which one has a high amp load.
 

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And you will have to wait a 10-15 minutes for certain modules to go to sleep and the amperage go down. 50mA is the acceptable normal draw.
 

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I have a 1997 Taurus that if it sets more than a day the battery will be dead. I changed the battery that didn't help, so I took off the posative battery cable and put my digital tester between the post and cable and it reads 12v of pull (car is not running). I pulled every fuse out, under the hood and under the dash, put them back in one at a time and wached the meter. When I finished I had ten fuses that if I put any one of them in the meter jumped to 12 volts. The fuses are as follow, under the hood, PWR/LK-30amp--DRL-15amp--AIRBAG-10amp--AUDIO-20amp--HORN-15amp--ALT-30amp,Under the dash,STOP LAMP-15amp--RADIO-5amp--WIPERS/VAP-5amp--MIRRORS/ANT-5amp. What do these have in common?
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Glove box & under hood trouble lights & a sticking brake light switch are good suspects to add to you suspect list. As are leaky/shorted alternator diodes, or battery cells. If you have any aftermarket equiptment wired in, unplug it too.

If you have problems running the culprit down, take your ride by your favorite autoparts store for a no cost, in vehicle, electrical system check up, via their portable electrical system tester, Properly used, it can load test your battery & alternator, & monitor for excessive parasitic drain & can likely sniff out your problem.

More thoughts for pondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
And you will have to wait a 10-15 minutes for certain modules to go to sleep and the amperage go down. 50mA is the acceptable normal draw.
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I hooked the meter up between the battery post and cable (set meter on DC ma)and put the fuses back in one at a time and it pulles .15 dc ma. I put them all in and it still says .15 dc ma. Anything else or am I doing it wronge? Thanks for the help.
 

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Well that level of parasitic load won't drain a battery in a day, so whatever load was draining the battery isn't present now.

While your at it & have the battery cable off, set your multimeter to the 20 volt DC scale & give us a open circuit/no load, "state of charge" voltage reading, accross the battery posts.
 

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Sure the meter is hooked up right? I have never seen a draw less than about 20 to 50 mA on a modern car after all the modules have gone to sleep.
 

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Sure the meter is hooked up right? I have never seen a draw less than about 20 to 50 mA on a modern car after all the modules have gone to sleep.
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This question, along with your unusually low posted parasitic drain current readings has also caused me to wonder if your meter settings, or lead connections to measure current are in question.

Don't know what brand multimeter your using, but most multimeters have test lead plug-in jacks to enable the meter to measure large currents, on the level of about 10 AMPS.
So if your test leads were thus connected, your readings might really be .15 amps, or 150 ma & that would be more in line with whats expected.

Now if that level of parasitic drain continued, it could draw a battery down.

Yet more thoughts for pondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
<div class='quotemain'>
Sure the meter is hooked up right? I have never seen a draw less than about 20 to 50 mA on a modern car after all the modules have gone to sleep.
[/b]

This question, along with your unusually low posted parasitic drain current readings has also caused me to wonder if your meter settings, or lead connections to measure current are in question.

Don't know what brand multimeter your using, but most multimeters have test lead plug-in jacks to enable the meter to measure large currents, on the level of about 10 AMPS.
So if your test leads were thus connected, your readings might really be .15 amps, or 150 ma & that would be more in line with whats expected.

Now if that level of parasitic drain continued, it could draw a battery down.

Yet more thoughts for pondering.
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After work I will recheck. Something I just remembered that may have something to do with my problem. A couple of months ago the day time running lights quit working right, they were real dim and the bright light light on the dash stayed on all the time even when the car was off, it went out only when you turned on the lights. After asking around I was told to just pull the fuse, so I did and the light went out on the dash and the DRL do not work at all.(Which is fine with me). Again I do thank all of you who are trying to help me. Glad I found this site.
 

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OK, good feedback about the DRL's acting out.

If the fuse to it is still pulled & the battery drain has stopped, then the DRL control module belongs on your suspect list imo.
 

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OK, good feedback about the DRL's acting out.

If the fuse to it is still pulled & the battery drain has stopped, then the DRL control module belongs on your suspect list imo.
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Even with the fuse pulled the battery still goes dead after setting more than a day.
 

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Since you have had a past problem with the lighting in the past, I would disconnect the wiring to the headlight switch and see if the battery goes dead. If it doesn't, then you likely have a shorted headlight switch, which is a fairly common problem.
 

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Have you tried taking it to Autozone for a battery system check? How old is the battery anyway? They're not really designed for deep discharges like what's happening now. It's the quickest way to kill a battery. Usually they're not really meant to go below 75%-80% of maximum charge.
 

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Have you tried taking it to Autozone for a battery system check? How old is the battery anyway? They're not really designed for deep discharges like what's happening now. It's the quickest way to kill a battery. Usually they're not really meant to go below 75%-80% of maximum charge.
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I purchased the battery appx. 1 year ago.

Since you have had a past problem with the lighting in the past, I would disconnect the wiring to the headlight switch and see if the battery goes dead. If it doesn't, then you likely have a shorted headlight switch, which is a fairly common problem.
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The headlights turn on and off just fine, I would have to believe that if the switch was shorted the headlights would not work properly. It is the daytime running lights that I have a problem with.
 
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