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Well I started about 4:30 pm. Was going well until I went to remove the last compressor bolt, bottom right one as u look at it from front of car. Spent an hour to get it off.

Here is the trick. Irwin bolt remover socket and Craftsman Auto Hammer.

This is the battery powered hammer that fits where a hammer wont.

Used it on a 1" 3/8 extension to pound the irwin socket on because it wouldnt go on far enough to grab the bolt head by hand. Then I was able to break it loose and continue on.

Well the compressor will not make the turn past the motor mount. SO I decided to try the out the top approach.

Removed passenger side cooling fan, one bolt! The only easy thing about this. Then removed the coolant pipe and associated damn wiring holders.
Had to remove the battery to get to the hose clamps on the driver side. I hate those factory clamps. But it will come out the top. Should have taken an hour to get out, but I was trying everything to get that one bolt out!

Tomorrow part 2, trying to remember how the crap goes back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
DAY 2

Installed new compressor, put everything else back where it came from and everything was fine. UNTIL i went to charge the system with freon. The compressor clutch wouldnt work. So in the past I have had to jump the relay to make power go there to get it rolling, then once there was a little pressure I could remove the jumper. This time that didnt work. So I checked the relay, no power....started checking random fuses. found a red 10 amp fuse blown under the hood. Put a new one in and the compressor started working. It seems my old pulley bearing allowed the coil to short blowing the fuse. Got the freon in there! Before you ask, I added the oil direct to the compressor then put the shipping cap back on while installing it. Didnt lose a drop. Worked well.

Took it for a short drive thinking I need a gallon of antifreeze to top it off again. Got 4 blocks, had to turn around. Got to about 15 over the limit and shut the car off and coasted back into the drive way. I didnt think I lost that much coolant. Well I did.
car went almost the the H on the gauge. it tool 1 gallon exactly to refill. Car has been fine since.

Now onto the check engine light...P01633 is pcm keep alive voltage too low....NOTE this is the same circuit as the ac compressor relay from the pcm. Well I already fixed that fuse, cleared the code..Problem Solved.

I hope some of this is useful to you.

Cost 172.00 compressor
9.99 anti freeze
4 Cans of freon, to get to about 33 psi on low side. (or so my gauge says)price varies
$8 can of AC compressor oil.

Took about 4 hrs. Should have been 3 tops, but that rounded bolt head took some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I drove about 400 miles on a bad clutch bearing...it shows too! 3 balls left. I do not know how the belt stayed on.
 

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Hmmmmm I have same car and my bolt on top right (looking at it from the front) stripped on me. Think about pair of vice grips will work?
 

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I paid pros to replace my compressor, know I know why it cost so much. Sorry, I just didn't have time to deal with it myself, my other ride was down at the time and I needed at least one car with AC.
 

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I paid pros to replace my compressor, know I know why it cost so much. Sorry, I just didn't have time to deal with it myself, my other ride was down at the time and I needed at least one car with AC.
I would do this all day long for the money they get to do this.
 

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Any help on this?

Hi Guys,
Newbie here, but I have been on this forum for years. Anyway, recently bought a 2003 Ford Taurus DOHC, and to make a long story short, I need to replace my compressor, AGAIN. (I got one from a junkyard, was promised it was good (Thats was a lie itself)) but last time I had the whole front of the car off with the rafdiator, so it was easy. Now, I need to do it again but without taking this stuff out. ANY tips, or a detailed removal? I am getting a remanufactured one tomarrow from advance.

Thanks for any quick help. I am attempting this tomarrow.
*And I already know how to remove surp belt tension, the wires, and I know there are 4 bolts on the compressor.
Thanks
 

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Barring any stripped bolts like Johnny had it really is not that bad a job unless I have done it enough that I have gotten good at it. Bring it out the top. Drain radiator and save it if it is fairly fresh. Remove radiator fans. Remove coolant pipes and maybe the battery and battery holder. Loosen the relay box and set to side. Remove the coolant lines from the compressor. Remove compressor bolts. Work compressor over to the left and up and out. Be carefull not to damage the radiator.

Ed
 

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Hose clamp pliers that are cable actuated are a must to work on these cars with today's OEM hose clamps. Craftsman sells a set, saved me a ton of grief, and IMO it's money well spent on that tool box addition. They lock the clamp open and with the flexible end you can access all the coolant pipe and hose clamps in the tight spots with ease.
 

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Barring any stripped bolts like Johnny had it really is not that bad a job unless I have done it enough that I have gotten good at it. Bring it out the top. Drain radiator and save it if it is fairly fresh. Remove radiator fans. Remove coolant pipes and maybe the battery and battery holder. Loosen the relay box and set to side. Remove the coolant lines from the compressor. Remove compressor bolts. Work compressor over to the left and up and out. Be carefull not to damage the radiator.

Ed
Yep and I'll add that on my '00 DOHC I just pulled the pass side fan, battery stayed in. Compressor just wiggled out.
Had to pull pass. headlight for bolt access to get accumulator out.
 

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Just noticed I said to move the compressor over to the left. I mean the other (left). Move it over to the driver's side before bringing it up and out.

Repairman, I second that hose clamp tool as being handy. I got mine at Sear's. I think I paid about $38.00 for it. Kind of pricey but sometimes it is the only thing that will work.
 

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johnny--here's a few questions to help out.

you didn't mention that you changed the accumulator attached to the low pressure line. Did you do that??

You put oil in but how did you avoid oil dripping out of the compressor when you took off the shipping cap?

did you put all the oil, about 6.5 oz of it in the compressor or did some go in the lines?

did you need to turn the pulley on the compressor by hand(or tool if needed) to get oil in compressor

Did the orifice tube look dirty or did you check?
 

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thats funny

thats funny cause i looked at me compressor and that bolt is not even put on i had a shop do my ac compressor job for like 700 dollars back in 2007 now i got ac leaking form the shaft seal thats the only place the shop said they could see any dye
Well I started about 4:30 pm. Was going well until I went to remove the last compressor bolt, bottom right one as u look at it from front of car. Spent an hour to get it off.

Here is the trick. Irwin bolt remover socket and Craftsman Auto Hammer.

This is the battery powered hammer that fits where a hammer wont.

Used it on a 1" 3/8 extension to pound the irwin socket on because it wouldnt go on far enough to grab the bolt head by hand. Then I was able to break it loose and continue on.

Well the compressor will not make the turn past the motor mount. SO I decided to try the out the top approach.

Removed passenger side cooling fan, one bolt! The only easy thing about this. Then removed the coolant pipe and associated damn wiring holders.
Had to remove the battery to get to the hose clamps on the driver side. I hate those factory clamps. But it will come out the top. Should have taken an hour to get out, but I was trying everything to get that one bolt out!

Tomorrow part 2, trying to remember how the crap goes back together.
 

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Registered
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Well I started about 4:30 pm. Was going well until I went to remove the last compressor bolt, bottom right one as u look at it from front of car. Spent an hour to get it off.

Here is the trick. Irwin bolt remover socket and Craftsman Auto Hammer.

This is the battery powered hammer that fits where a hammer wont.

Used it on a 1" 3/8 extension to pound the irwin socket on because it wouldnt go on far enough to grab the bolt head by hand. Then I was able to break it loose and continue on.

Well the compressor will not make the turn past the motor mount. SO I decided to try the out the top approach.

Removed passenger side cooling fan, one bolt! The only easy thing about this. Then removed the coolant pipe and associated damn wiring holders.
Had to remove the battery to get to the hose clamps on the driver side. I hate those factory clamps. But it will come out the top. Should have taken an hour to get out, but I was trying everything to get that one bolt out!

Tomorrow part 2, trying to remember how the crap goes back together.
Any idea as to how to get to a rounded bolt head that is the top left one when facting the car? That metal shroud barely let's anything fit in there. And I'm about 11 years late to this post, I know. Figure I'd give it a shot.
 
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