Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was driving and it started studdering while driving up hill. Then it started doing it whenever it was being driven. The check engine light came on and I had the code read at autozone, it said that there was a misfire on cylinder 3. They suggested that I change the spark plugs and wires, so I did. The check engine light remains on but it drives smooth. There is not a single problem accelerating, only when it I am stopped at red lights can I feel the engine jump a little bit. It's not constant, it's kind of a random thing. I can't find a solution anywhere on the internet, all I can find is posts about replacing the coil, but if it was the coil wouldn't cylinder 6 be messed up too? Or would it even start at all? Really stuck here could really use some opinions. I just want the check engine light to go away!

*I flushed the computer and the engine light came back the next day*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,651 Posts
I was driving and it started studdering while driving up hill. Then it started doing it whenever it was being driven. The check engine light came on and I had the code read at autozone, it said that there was a misfire on cylinder 3. They suggested that I change the spark plugs and wires, so I did. The check engine light remains on but it drives smooth. There is not a single problem accelerating, only when it I am stopped at red lights can I feel the engine jump a little bit. It's not constant, it's kind of a random thing. I can't find a solution anywhere on the internet, all I can find is posts about replacing the coil, but if it was the coil wouldn't cylinder 6 be messed up too? Or would it even start at all? Really stuck here could really use some opinions. I just want the check engine light to go away!
If you don't have a code reader to reset the light, remove the ground battery cable for maybe 15 minutes and it will reset. Need driving cycle to get it ready for inspection if required.

The coil can misfire on one cylinder and not it's mate.

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,533 Posts
If plugs/wires didn't rid the misfire, coil's on deck. Very common to have a single cylinder misfire due to a faulty ignition coil. It's an old wives' tale the companion cylinder must also exhibit a misfire.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
I don't remember if you have a coil pack or coil on plugs. But if it's a coil pack, it tends to develop cracks and can cause random misfires like you're experiencing. People usually report a misfire on only one cylinder when it's the coil.

When getting codes at various places, your best bet is to come back here and look up the actual code. I remember getting a code for a bad EGR and they tried to sell me a new one, but it turned out to be a DPFE instead, but I knew better than to listen to them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
If it's the coil why would the spuddering while driving stop when i changed the spark plugs and wires? and would the coil be to blame just for the studdering when idle? I also get garbage fuel economy. 220 miles to a tank if I'm lucky. I read that that might be the cause too. I know next to nothing about my car, only what autozone tells me.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,931 Posts
The answer is yes your coil could be the cause, do a drop test. There is a lot of info here and we are happy to help if you are lucky you will get harmless incorrect info from AZ, other than getting codes from them don't act on anything any of them tell you until you verify it. Do NOT get a Duralast coil from Autozone. Buying Duralast engine electronics is like playing Russian roullette with an automatic.

Check here for misfire info:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/173490-how-understand-diagnose-misfires.html
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
6,642 Posts
Read the misfire sticky if you have not already!

(Which jag just posted in the post before).



Likely you needed new plugs and wires already and then the coil was already bad which is what made it bad enough to need to do something about. When things are neglected for too long (plugs and wires which should be changed every 100k or less) you can have multiple failures. If a plug wire is arcing it can put extra stress on the coil too.

Do a drop test or at LEAST remove the coil and look for cracks on the underside. CRACKS = REPLACE COIL!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,533 Posts
^+1 with Chart. If the misfire symptoms (sputtering, etc.) vanished after the plug/wire change and all you're left with is the cel, and you don't have a code reader, scan tool or Autozone won't clear the light (code), simply disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes then reconnect. If misfire code (light) returns, I'd replace the coil pack with a Motorcraft or BWD (Borg-Warner) brand. Hope you used Motorcraft or Autolite plugs/wires. Were there any other codes other than the p0303? May have Autozone recheck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Interestingly enough, I was having almost the same problem, but on #4 (P0304) and I'm at a loss: New plugs, wires, coil pack, TPS, IAC, fuel pump, fuel filter, new MAF, and all injectors read +/-10 ohms. CEL is still coming on after resetting (neg battery cable).
Any ideas? Similar situation?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
check engine light

hello, my cel came on while my son was driving the car 2 days ago. he took it to auto zone to read code, they said it was mutiple mifires but didn't give him the specific code for that. here it is saturday, 3/9 and the cel went out on friday, 3/8 by its self ... any reason why ?? & yes, i can feel i miss when going on a slight uphill such as an on ramp to highway. any suggestions on what i should do besides take it to the garage. please in box, tks
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top