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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I am working on a 1999 Ford Taurus Se OHV (pushrod engine) its the vulcan 3.0. I am replacing the piston rings in cyl. 1 and 2 since I took the pistons out. I took my car over to mineke to get it fixed and when they checked the car they said that cyl. 1 and 4 had the following pressure to them (cyl. 1 had 61 Lbs per sq. in. and cyl. 4 had 91) everything else was at 110 and 120. I had replaced the head gasket so I ruled that out and also checked the heads and found them NOT warped. I went to Napa for new piston rings and connecting rod bearings and there was a guy that told me the head bolts were bad and needed replacing. I couldent see how this was the problem but decided it wouldent hurt to try it since they werent expensive. I have not put the new piston rings in and torqued all the connecting rods down and what not but not I cant get the oil pan back in the car. I am working on the engine INSIDE the car (figured it wouldent be too bad doing this since it was only going to be a ring job). I need some tips on how to get the gasket back up and in place. I also would like to know if the head bolts could be the problem for the leaks in the cyl. Any information at this time would be great. THANK YOU!
 

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LOL, you rebuilt the engine and are struggling with the pan gasket. Don't feel bad, I hate those things (on all cars). It's like juggling snakes. Anyway I've found the best way is just to use a light bead of black permatex all around the pan flange, set the gasket on, and let the sealant tack up just a bit before installing. Then it doesn't fight you so hard. I've trie dthose stupid nylon helper bolts that FelPro includes, but they just make the job harder for me.

Any car with torque-to-yield bolts must have them replaced after removal. So yes the NAPA guy was right, although no it didn't cause your cylinder leakage. Hopefully you did a full wet/dry compression/leakdown battery before doing the engine work. Hate for the problem to be leaking valves after you did all that work...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes when I took the car to mineke they did a "wet test" and the pressure in cyl. 1 went from 61 to an almost 90. They told me that when a wet test adds more pressure the rings and normally bad but when I took the piston out of cyl. 1 there was no sign of really bad wear on the rings nor did they look damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The heads were not taken to a machine shop. I used a straight edge in order to tell that the heads are not warped. There are not cracks in the heads ether I have check everything. There is 221000 miles on the car...if you look in my garage on here it has the car listed its the only one. What is the compression supposed to be?
 

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Cake monster
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The heads were not taken to a machine shop. I used a straight edge in order to tell that the heads are not warped. There are not cracks in the heads ether I have check everything. There is 221000 miles on the car...if you look in my garage on here it has the car listed its the only one. What is the compression supposed to be?
It can be cracked even if you can't see it with your eyes. Your engine has 221,000 miles? That's about 355,665km from where I am. Personally, I would look for a low miler engine instead, that thing is probably a little tired from the sounds of it. You'd be better off putting in a different engine. Closer to 140 on everything is where you would want to be.

I'm wondering if it isn't simply a cracked head and torque issues with the head bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As a matter of face yes my car did have a MAJOR over heating issue one day when it was 17 degrees out (i live in PA so its not an everyday thing) the car had a thud to is as well with the engine off and all. I thought it over heating was my antifreeze/water frozen solid...but im not sure what it really was.....I do know that the same day that happend anytime I went above 40 MPH the heat gauge would SPIKE to the high side but once I got to 40 or below then it would go right back down to normal running temp.
 

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If you've already put it back together, may as well see how it runs at this point. I will agree with JW657's suspicions that the heads are probably cracked though. As a general rule, engines with 200K miles arent worth major internal work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I guess I can agree I want to have the engine taken out and rebuilt for this car due to how much I love driving it. I own a 1965 Ford Mustang restored and I dont like driving the mustang as much as the Taurus. Just that much more of a smooth ride. The car has no rust at all so its in GREAT shape just the engine giving me trouble. The car is not back together at this point. I can not get the oil pan to go back on the car right. I still have everything taken apart on top of the engine as well as below (oil pan is all really).....any tips you guys have for putting the engine back together would be GREAT too!...Thanks for all your input so far!
 

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Cake monster
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I guess I can agree I want to have the engine taken out and rebuilt for this car due to how much I love driving it. I own a 1965 Ford Mustang restored and I dont like driving the mustang as much as the Taurus. Just that much more of a smooth ride. The car has no rust at all so its in GREAT shape just the engine giving me trouble. The car is not back together at this point. I can not get the oil pan to go back on the car right. I still have everything taken apart on top of the engine as well as below (oil pan is all really).....any tips you guys have for putting the engine back together would be GREAT too!...Thanks for all your input so far!
As long as the car isn't rusted out, it can always be worth fixing in my opinion. If you want to fix the engine, I would freshen all of the bearings, new rings, rebuild the heads and get a full gasket kit. I think there's a guy over on the other Taurus site that pulled his engine and did something along those lines. The link is blocked here. If you google "taurusowners" it's the first link, I forget the thread name but it's under the engine section or maintenance I think.

Just another note, you can use an engine from a much newer Taurus if you strip the engine and use your old components on it. There's tons of cheap, low mileage Vulcans out there. They go for around $500 in my area.

Another note: if you go the way of rebuilding, there's a company making thicker heads for your engine, they might take an overheating better. The stock ones love to crack. I haven't tried the new ones though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you for your input. I have put a new gasket kit on the car along with ALL new connecting rod bearings and cylinders 1 and 2 had the rings replaced. (all the others seemed to be in great condition). I also put new shell oil in the car since there was some oil build up (sludge). I have the car all back together now and I cant get it to start. i believe it is due to not having fuel in the lines yet but I will find out tomorrow when I have more time to play with it. I will keep you guys updated on whats going on.
 
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