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Discussion Starter #1
So I was dropping my sub frame to remove the transmission this past Thursday afternoon.....
You know the rest. ( 1994 Taurus 3.0L Vulcan GL AX4S )
Peel back the carpet and do it from the inside .. or cut and bend on the out side then tar it over ?
Probably the inside given the distance back huh ?
Any one have a thread with pics on here of the installation and cutting area ?
 

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Go to Ford and buy the subframe recall kit. it is cheap. There are detailed instructions on how to do it. You need a 2 1/2" hole saw for starters.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Am I speaking Spanish ? :p
Photos of how folks repaired via cutting into the floor pans.
Its my experience that Ford directions SUCK in a big way.
 

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I have used the ford directions, they are very easy and accurate to follow. I don't think i have any of the instructions around here to scan or take a picture of. I don't know if they have been posted before.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you !
As long as FOMOCO didn't do some thing stupid and include the same directions for a 200(?)...5 for a 1994 as a cure all ( like they normally do LOL! ) it should be ok then.
 

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The instructions are generic for Sable/Taurus/Continental as they are all the same frame. However, they are easy to use.

Also, you are in the salt belt, you should run your vin# through the ford recalls to see if you are covered; maybe you can get the parts for free? just an idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The instructions are generic for Sable/Taurus/Continental as they are all the same frame. However, they are easy to use.

Also, you are in the salt belt, you should run your vin# through the ford recalls to see if you are covered; maybe you can get the parts for free? just an idea.
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You knows that's not a bad idea. ;)
Free's free right !
I am already paying for a trans rebuild why spend more if I don't have to.
Dank'a ! :D



Part 1 of the instructions

Part 2 of instructions
[/b]

My man !!!!!
Thank you vett vetty much sir !
Now I can begin cutting and getting things ready while locating the parts.
:D
 

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IDK if they'll just give you the recall kit for free. They'll sell you a kit, but in order for them to bill the kit out, there would either have to be a purchase order thru the parts dept, or a work order thru the service dept. If the latter is the case, they would have to actually do the recall, cuz if they just gave you the parts and signed off on it, i'd think they could be held responsible if something happened to your car while you were driving, and it went back to a failure of the subframe bolts that they gave you, but didn't install. There's a reason, after all, why it's a recall - the car is supposed to come in to the dealership to have the bad parts replaced with the new ones. Who knows, maybe you'll get lucky and they'll give you the kits, but i'd be surprised. Let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They are just giving me the kit. ;)
Picking it up Tuesday afternoon.
No purchase required. All they have to do is fill out a ticket, I sign a waiver and I am off to the races.
The only purpose of them even needing any thing from you or doing anything other then removing the stock from their computer is so they make sure the same person isn't coming back over and over again for those kits at different dealer ships with the same vehicle identification number and street address.
 

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They are just giving me the kit. ;)
Picking it up Tuesday afternoon.
No purchase required. All they have to do is fill out a ticket, I sign a waiver and I am off to the races.
The only purpose of them even needing any thing from you or doing anything other then removing the stock from their computer is so they make sure the same person isn't coming back over and over again for those kits at different dealer ships with the same vehicle identification number and street address.
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Ah well, that works out for you. I didn't know about the waiver part, since i don't work on the front counter. It could be different up here in Canada too, but who knows? At least you get the parts for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yup picked them up today.
Two washers, two nut assy's, two plugs, and two bolts with a set of directions.
No waiver though as they said there would be over the phone.
All I had to do was enter my vin, name, address, and phone number into the system so they could remove my turd snatcher from the list so if it happens again I have to pay for it LOL! ( probably not remove it, but to add it to those that have received it already )
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well as I suspected that was Fing HORRIBLE.
Fords directions as usual were CRAP having very little to do with actual location of the bolts through the floor pan on my 94'.
I had to knock the tabs up and the bolt assembly out via BFH up through the hole and shove them aside in the unibody. Then took a punch and hit it through the hole to mark the hole position to be cut through the floor pan.
I cut exactly where they said to cut on the passenger side by their measurements and ended up way the freak off so much I could barely knock the tabs back down. Then did it my way on the drivers side and was right on the money with plenty of room.
Start off real slow and easy with your hole saw too or you'll end up fubarring your hand against the brake pedal like I did LOL!
( got in a hurry )

I HIGHLY suggest attaching a socket adapter to your drill, lubing up the new bolts and nuts, and then running them in and out a few times BEFORE you place them in final position in the subframe though.
Then coating them real well with never seize.
This should GREATLY reduce stress on replacement and lessen the chance of those WEAK ASS tabs bending over again and having to rip the carpet back up and pulling the plug out.
Then use your drill with socket attachment to run up the bolts and tighten them by hand with your torque wrench of breaker bar. The faster and steadier you run those bolts up the less chance things can go wrong due to wobble and what not knocking them around, and the never seize will make them easy as pie to remove if you need to again in the future.
;)
 
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