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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I'm new on this site I bearly got my car. I wanted to ask if it's possible to add another battery to my car for connecting my sound system and neon light in a separate battery. If it can be done how could I do that.
Thanks in Advance
 

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anything is possible but i don't think you will need another battery to run Neon lights and a sound system.
In my car i have about 200watts in HID lighting on top of 2 12" subs running off a 1500Watt RMS (real RMS 1100watt) with a 300 watt for my speakers.
If going to run something similar to that you don't need a another battery.
You might need to do the Big 3 but that's about it. can i ask how many watt is your sounds.
 

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extra battery never hurts. not needed but at times can be useful such as the extra equipment you want to run. there wont be that much more of a load on the alt if you stayed stock set up vs adding another battery. now if you running like 4k rms like i am then yeah you need extra battteries lol. you should be alright mate.

upgrading the wiring for the charging system "big 3" is always a good idea as well. alot of people here will suggest this before adding batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well right now my is one 2000 watts alpine amp 2 12" kicker. And Led neon lights 4 underbody ans 2 interior. And could you explain whag is the big 3 you are talking about I haven't heard of it
 

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Just google/youtube "Big 3 upgrade video" There are about a dozen different vids.
 

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I agree with Dieselman, A secondary battery will do worlds of good, even a small one. A smaller (group 34) car audio battery, combined with a decent up front automotive battery, plus a big three, will give you stable voltage under full tilt up to a decent amount of power. Less dimming at red lights etc. It never hurts. But I would install your setup first and see how much voltage drop you have before investing in an unnecesary battery.
 

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here are a few pics of what the "big 3" will somewhat look like. everys is different.

1. shows the 2 upgraded ground wires one of which is batt to chassis ground.
2. main power wire from alt to batter. you can see it snake down in the first pic
3. this is the batt to motor ground.

note: there are some people that might do a motor to chassis ground as well. nothing wrong with that i just havent done that. there is no "to many power/ground wires" you can use. use as many as you want and is feasable.

I am in the process of adding a second run of power from alt to batt just to help with voltage stability. I am also running a 220amp alt thou as well so i could actually get some good use out of extra run of wire.

Hope this helps you out alittle.
 

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here are a few pics of what the "big 3" will somewhat look like. everys is different.

1. shows the 2 upgraded ground wires one of which is batt to chassis ground.
2. main power wire from alt to batter. you can see it snake down in the first pic
3. this is the batt to motor ground.

note: there are some people that might do a motor to chassis ground as well. nothing wrong with that i just havent done that. there is no "to many power/ground wires" you can use. use as many as you want and is feasable.

I am in the process of adding a second run of power from alt to batt just to help with voltage stability. I am also running a 220amp alt thou as well so i could actually get some good use out of extra run of wire.

Hope this helps you out alittle.
You may like the little write up I'm doing on how to make a group 31 Yellowtop fit in that factory spot ;) can you say double the cranking amps of the stock battery?
 

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You may like the little write up I'm doing on how to make a group 31 Yellowtop fit in that factory spot ;) can you say double the cranking amps of the stock battery?
that battery has been changed out that pic was taken right when the big 3 was done. i now have a yellow top in there but am going for an xs d3100 to fit in there.
 

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If you do add another battery in the trunk, I recommend a spiral cell to prevent hydrogen gases from being released into the trunk. Not to mention a huge reduction in the chance of acid leaking if the battery is cracked or somehow tipped.
 

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2. main power wire from alt to batter. you can see it snake down in the first pic
You eliminated the mega fuse (175A) from the circuit. If ever your alternator will develop a shorted diode (or more as ususlly happens), you might have a fire in the engine bay. Your battery will melt that nice red wire.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
here are a few pics of what the "big 3" will somewhat look like. everys is different.

1. shows the 2 upgraded ground wires one of which is batt to chassis ground.
2. main power wire from alt to batter. you can see it snake down in the first pic
3. this is the batt to motor ground.

note: there are some people that might do a motor to chassis ground as well. nothing wrong with that i just havent done that. there is no "to many power/ground wires" you can use. use as many as you want and is feasable.

I am in the process of adding a second run of power from alt to batt just to help with voltage stability. I am also running a 220amp alt thou as well so i could actually get some good use out of extra run of wire.

Hope this helps you out alittle.
On the 2nd pic of the alternator what happens to the stock cable that was connected to the alternator and where does that cable ends
 

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You eliminated the mega fuse (175A) from the circuit. If ever your alternator will develop a shorted diode (or more as ususlly happens), you might have a fire in the engine bay. Your battery will melt that nice red wire.

Good luck.
yes i eliminated it BUT i added an ANL inline fuse. Same affect as the 175a mega fuse. this is why you add an inline fuse to the big 3 to solve this issue. you can leave the stock wire in and add your 0g wire just be sure to fuse that wire.. so, again either way it will be fused. so, my nice red wire will be perfectly fine. I have had this done to my car for about 4 years now with no issues.

So to answer any questions, yes you can remove the stock red wire from alt to batt, if you do be sure to add an inline ANL fuse to replace the 175a mega fuse you are bypassing.

If you decide to leave that stock wire there be sure to fuse your 0g wire as well.
 

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On the 2nd pic of the alternator what happens to the stock cable that was connected to the alternator and where does that cable ends
one is your power wire for the starter if i remember correctly(not out looking at it) and the other is the wire that runs to the fuse panel right beside the battery, if i remember correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
one is your power wire for the starter if i remember correctly(not out looking at it) and the other is the wire that runs to the fuse panel right beside the battery, if i remember correctly.
Yes, I'm talking about that cable that runs to the fuse panel. What happens to that cable do i remove it? That's why i got a little confuse
 

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Yes, I'm talking about that cable that runs to the fuse panel. What happens to that cable do i remove it? That's why i got a little confuse
that wire stays connected because it provides power to your fuse panel.
your just replacing the wire that runs from the alt to the battery
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
that wire stays connected because it provides power to your fuse panel.
your just replacing the wire that runs from the alt to the battery
I meant the cable that is connected to the alt, that cable doesn't run to the battery because on my bat there is only two positive cables connected one to the fuse panel and the other one is on the engine. And the cable that is connected to alt is the one that I don't know where it ends
 

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Your positive battery connection points are: batt.+, 175amp megafuse (pass. end of the power distribution box- underhood fuse/relay box), alternator and starter solenoid.
 

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Loose main ground wire.

Great site. I've been able to fix my 99 Sable many times based on what I've learned from these discussions. I have a simple question. I just found the larger of the 2 ground cables disconnected while replacing the heater hose assembly. The battery light just started flashing shortly after this discovery and the battery died the next day. I can't tell where this cable is suppoed to be bolted. Anyone have any ideas or a picture of where this wire is supposed to be connected ?
 
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