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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to fix dads problem, 01 mercury--his temperature gauge is not operating correctly. barely moves up in temperature even after 30 mins of driving.

Might be coolant sensor or maybe gauge sender as i understand.

How would you tackle problem in determining the culprit. I heard put jumpers on coolant sensor and temp. gauge pegs to hot even when engine is cool then the sensor is bad.

But what about temp. gauge sender? I don't understand why manufacturers didn't just use one device to monitor temperature and then send signal to the gauge.

scott
 

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Temp Sender

Trying to fix dads problem, 01 mercury--his temperature gauge is not operating correctly. barely moves up in temperature even after 30 mins of driving.

Might be coolant sensor or maybe gauge sender as i understand.

How would you tackle problem in determining the culprit. I heard put jumpers on coolant sensor and temp. gauge pegs to hot even when engine is cool then the sensor is bad.

But what about temp. gauge sender? I don't understand why manufacturers didn't just use one device to monitor temperature and then send signal to the gauge.

scott
The kind of signal needed for a mechanical gage is different than the one for the processor that gives digital temp data.

The gage is a general range kind of thing and the processer signal gives temp within a degree or so, digital.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok thanks for the info. Anyone consider how i should determine which is giving my father's gauge for temperature the incorrect information?
 

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You can read the reported engine coolant temperature with a scantool. If the gauge and the PCM reading are off, then one is lying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sheila--car is running cool.

Chart--thanks for looking up the wiring colors

saw on forum that can put jumper cable on the 2 ends from coolant sensor and it gauge pegs out to hot then sensor is bad.

Scott
 

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The coolant sensor with TWO wires is the input for PCM and is important for the engine.
The one with ONE wire is the one for the gauge. It's just for drivers fun...
 

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Do you know for a fact the car is actually running cool, or are you assuming it is because of the gauge reading? Hell, if youre befuckled, swap both (gray and brown) sensors out. Both are cheap to replace. A couple wraps of teflon tape or a couple drops of thread sealant and youre good to go. Check threads first, as some come with the sealant pre-applied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No, I am not assuming it is cool because the gauge is reading cool. I am assuming some monitoring is incorrect because ran the car for 200 miles and not even a hint of over heating but don't want my dad running around and have false representation of temperature.

The gauge only goes up about to 1/4 after running 30 minutes or 30. Yeah that is what will do, change sensor and then sender if doesn't get rid of problem. I just wanted some way to diagnose first.
 

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No, I am not assuming it is cool because the gauge is reading cool. I am assuming some monitoring is incorrect because ran the car for 200 miles and not even a hint of over heating but don't want my dad running around and have false representation of temperature.

The gauge only goes up about to 1/4 after running 30 minutes or 30. Yeah that is what will do, change sensor and then sender if doesn't get rid of problem. I just wanted some way to diagnose first.
I had a similar issue with my 97, but it was reading higher than i
thought it should. replaced the single wire gauge sender, no difference.
checked with the OBD2 live, and it was in the proper temp ball park.

Come to find out the dash gauges are not calibrated and differ
in how they display. There is no calibration you can do unless
you change out the dash cluster. Or send your cluster into a speedo
repair place.

What i did on mine was to read the OBD2 live scanner, and note
what temp it was in relation to the dash guage position.
 

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There are elec. trouble-shooting tests for both sensors listed in a haynes or chiltons repair manual available at most parts stores for ~$20. If the gray 2-wire ect (cts) is bad (or its wiring or circuit), you should get a check eng. light (code).
 

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The gauge only goes up about to 1/4 after running 30 minutes or 30.
That's the correct position - horizontal needle for stock Ford thermostat (188F).
 
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