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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm loosing about 1/2 pint of coolant every 1000KMS. The leak is between the head gasket and the block. I'm wondering about adding a stop leak product as the leak is (at this point) minimal. My question is will I experience problems with the thermostat and/or the passenger compartment heater core, if I use a stop leak product? A can of stop leak is a whole lot cheaper than tearing the engine down to replace the gasket.

Any other ideas would be appreciated.

I have thought of applying high-temp silicone at the point of leakage, or that plumbing putty you knead and press into place. I have see ads on TV where they demonstrate this putty showing it stopping plumbing leaks. I just don't think an exterior application of either silicone or putty would do the job of stopping the leak.
 

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Scotty Kilmer to the Rescue Again! LOL

 

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I personally have had good experiences with the stop leaks made by bar's although I would never use them as a long term fix. Some have complained that they clog other areas of the system, I have never experienced this. I used it on my 1998 Saturn SC1 to stop an intake manifold/head gasket leak (would have to pay the mechanic to repair in order to find out which was the culprit as all the labor involved to get the engine apart to find the true source). I threw a can of the bar's stop leak (copper looking stuff) in the radiator, ran the engine for 30+ minutes as directions indicated and drove it another 8,000 miles or so before getting rid of it. Never had another leak and my engine didn't overheat, or clog or anything else. My heater core was pouring pretty badly in my taurus the other day and I don't feel like ripping everything apart right now to get to the heater core and replace. It would be $675 to pay the mechanic to do it, so I poured a $3 bottle of heavy duty stop leak from bar's that I purchased at the local walmart. It is pellets that dissolve when they get in the system. I just added the bottle to the upper radiator hose, ran the engine for 5 minutes with the heat off so the pellets could dissolve well and then opened up the heat core. The leak stopped within 10 seconds. I let the car run for another hour and then drove it about 5 miles or so and came home. I have hot heat(meaning the core is not plugged up, at least not enough to cause any issues with heating up the car) and the car has been running fine for a week now. This is only a few hundred miles in, but I had a sinus infection when the core started leaking last week and I just finished my antibiotics. I didn't want to replace the core at the time and still don't feel physically up to all the work involved. I will get around to it some time down the road.

Not a long term fix, but could buy you some time before you have to come out of pocket for that repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks Bigdogg2830 and WJC - I know that replacing the gasket is the proper fix. except the shop labour would likely run 8-9 hours, that ain't cheap

Alex - do you have any of the antibiotics left over maybe I could drop some in the rad lol
Thanks for sharing your experience with Barr's stop leak. I know the brand used it so many years ago so don't even remember how long it lasted or if it clogged the heater core. that's an age-related thingy, I'm sure it has nothing to do with what we used to roll up in the 70"s grin

00greenlx - thanks for the video about Steel Seal. Wonder how it compares to Barr's I wonder if it's available around here.
Do you have any experience with this product
 

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00greenlx - thanks for the video about Steel Seal. Wonder how it compares to Barr's I wonder if it's available around here.
Do you have any experience with this product
No I have not, but this guy has been an automotive tech for a very long time and has saved many cars with this stuff. you have to remember there are NO particles or pellets in steel steal that would clog your radiator or heater core.
 
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