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Discussion Starter #1
I had some coolant loss issues and part of the problem was a hairline crack in the Coolant Expansion Tank. The mechanic said this is quite common. I didn't want to pay for the Ford part so I called around to junk yards. They checked and the tanks they had also had cracks. One junk yard I called said he had new ones.
He said he got so many calls for them that he orders 12 at a time and keeps them on hand.

So if you have a coolant loss issue that is hard to track down it might be related to the tank.
 

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Very common with the older black topped tanks. Much improved with the newer clear top tanks. Dont bother with a JY tank.... they arent tnat expensive new.
 

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My son's 97 had that problem. Junk yard ones had cracks as well. I bought one off rockauto for a great price. Junk yard wanted to sell me a new one but wanted like $40 for one. I laughed and walked away. Best route is to buy new as even if you get a used one from the junk yard the days are numbered on it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
AutoZone has Dorman clear-topped replacement tanks for $27 brand new.
[/b]
I just checked Autozone site and they went from $ 38.00-58.00 dollars depending on the engine. Where did you see one for $ 27.00? Even Rock Auto was 47.00 for mine.
 

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Wow, the price has gone up. I got one from Rock Auto about a year ago and it was under $20 with shipping. I imagine they are seeing a larger demand now.
 

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QUOTE (ZZman @ Jan 4 2009, 09:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=689307
QUOTE (silvapain @ Jan 4 2009, 08:18 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=689305
AutoZone has Dorman clear-topped replacement tanks for $27 brand new.[/b]
I just checked Autozone site and they went from $ 38.00-58.00 dollars depending on the engine. Where did you see one for $ 27.00? Even Rock Auto was 47.00 for mine.
[/b][/quote]
Autozone's Dorman brand replacement, $27 for Duratec and SHO- $60 for Vulcan. The difference between the two is the intake manifold return point (Vulcan at the firewall end and others at the radiator end).
 

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The Dorman part is Chinese made. The Vulcan engine coolant tank has a black top, just like the Ford Part. I don't know which engine you guys who say that the tank top has been changed to clear have, but the tanks at the Ford Dealer, and the Dorman tanks sold by AutoZone and Kragen here in CA still have black tops.

AND, the Dorman tanks crack even faster than the Ford tanks. There have been a number of failures documented here on the Taurus Board. The one I bought in 2007, failed in 2008 at nine months old with less than 9K miles on it. Failure point was the side facing the engine, with multiple cracks, unlike all of the Ford tanks that I have had fail with cracking on the bottom after 2-3 years and about 40K miles.
 

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QUOTE (gohim @ Mar 8 2009, 04:31 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=706639
The Dorman part is Chinese made. The Vulcan engine coolant tank has a black top, just like the Ford Part. I don't know which engine you guys who say that the tank top has been changed to clear have, but the tanks at the Ford Dealer, and the Dorman tanks sold by AutoZone and Kragen here in CA still have black tops.

AND, the Dorman tanks crack even faster than the Ford tanks. There have been a number of failures documented here on the Taurus Board. The one I bought in 2007, failed in 2008 at nine months old with less than 9K miles on it. Failure point was the side facing the engine, with multiple cracks, unlike all of the Ford tanks that I have had fail with cracking on the bottom after 2-3 years and about 40K miles.[/b]
I've had the reservoir in my SHO now for 4 years and ~ 70K miles with no problems - clear-topped Dorman unit I bought from AutoZone for $27.
 

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QUOTE (gohim @ Mar 8 2009, 05:31 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=706639
The Dorman part is Chinese made. The Vulcan engine coolant tank has a black top, just like the Ford Part. I don't know which engine you guys who say that the tank top has been changed to clear have, but the tanks at the Ford Dealer, and the Dorman tanks sold by AutoZone and Kragen here in CA still have black tops.

AND, the Dorman tanks crack even faster than the Ford tanks. There have been a number of failures documented here on the Taurus Board. The one I bought in 2007, failed in 2008 at nine months old with less than 9K miles on it. Failure point was the side facing the engine, with multiple cracks, unlike all of the Ford tanks that I have had fail with cracking on the bottom after 2-3 years and about 40K miles.[/b]
I had the exact same failure with a Chinese Dorman black-top tank, after about 9-10 months, in what sounds like the same place. I also had the included cap fail in less than a month.

I have a clear-top Dorman tank now, which was (surprisingly) made in the USA. Ford went to clear-top tanks for 2004 (might have been 2003 - not sure), and as far as I know, they don't make black-top tanks anymore. Both Duratecs and Vulcans got clear-top tanks.
 

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hey...just replaced my tank about a year ago. While it was leaking...I noticed that my window switches wouldnt work right away. Anybody else notice this at all? As soon as i replaced the tank the windows worked great. Now the same problem is happening again. You guys state that the new tanks dont last very long, so maybe it is happening all over. The reason I am asking/telling this is because directly under the tank there is a wire running right under it. Not sure what this is for...but windows worked fine for a long time after I repalced it. Any thought on this??? thanks
 

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QUOTE (sandjhayes1 @ Jun 23 2009, 04:08 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=734591
hey...just replaced my tank about a year ago. While it was leaking...I noticed that my window switches wouldnt work right away. Anybody else notice this at all? As soon as i replaced the tank the windows worked great. Now the same problem is happening again. You guys state that the new tanks dont last very long, so maybe it is happening all over. The reason I am asking/telling this is because directly under the tank there is a wire running right under it. Not sure what this is for...but windows worked fine for a long time after I repalced it. Any thought on this??? thanks[/b]

I think that wire is a ground wire. If you follow it, it should connect to the body of the car to the 'left/passenger' side of the coolant reservoir. Again, orientation is from standing at front looking at engine.

I could be wrong b/c I'm just going from memory.

Also, when you buy the Part from AZ, make sure to rent the pressure tester and cap adapter. Test the tank after putting it in to ensure that it holds the recommended 16psi. I just went through a whole lot of hassle with coolant bubble over, overheating, etc. and it all came down to the fact the brand new part's threading did not hold the pressure for the cap.

No pressure = Coolant/Water boils at around 212F. Coolant systems routinely get to around 220F.
16psi pressure will raise the boiling point of the Coolant/Water so that 220 does not boil.
 

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I need to replace my tank for the third time in as many years. I've got a few questions.
I've got a 1999 Taurus LX

1. Where should I get the tank? The last few I've got from Autozone or Kragen and they had a black top. Should I get it from a Ford dealer? Haven't seen one with a clear top.

2. Is there something else that could be causing this, or is it just the replacement tanks suck?

3. i've been refilling with the 50/50 stuff that says it can go in any make or model and mix with any coolant. Is that bullshit or is the stuff actually okay?
 

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The Dorman tanks are cheaper than the Ford tanks but they don't last as long.

Dorman tanks are supposed to have a lifetime warranty according to Dorman.

If you don't like changing the tank all the time, buy the Ford tank which does not need to be replaced as often.

I get about 10K-15K miles from a Dorman, and 40K-50K miles from a Ford tank.

Read the bottles that the coolant comes in. Pre-mix 50/50 costs about 20-25% less than the same stuff when you have to mix with water. But you're getting much more when you mix it yourself. You can use any name brand coolant that is marked "NO SILICONES, AND NO PHOSPHATES". Do not use any coolant that is unmarked or simply says something like "safe for aluminum or alloy cooling systems and engines".
 

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QUOTE (major @ Mar 8 2009, 09:18 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=706568
QUOTE (ZZman @ Jan 4 2009, 09:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=689307
QUOTE (silvapain @ Jan 4 2009, 08:18 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=689305
AutoZone has Dorman clear-topped replacement tanks for $27 brand new.[/b]
I just checked Autozone site and they went from $ 38.00-58.00 dollars depending on the engine. Where did you see one for $ 27.00? Even Rock Auto was 47.00 for mine.
[/b][/quote]
Autozone's Dorman brand replacement, $27 for Duratec and SHO- $60 for Vulcan. The difference between the two is the intake manifold return point (Vulcan at the firewall end and others at the radiator end).

[/b][/quote]

Are these pictures a trick? Both engines look like Vulcans.

The more expensive tanks may have the level sensor in them.
 

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They are both Vulcans, he just demonstrated that you don't have to use the Vulcan replacement tank on a Vulcan, you can use the SHO/DOHC one with proper hose routing.
 

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I Just replaced my coolant tank today. Weird thing was nobody in town had one so I had to order from Rock Auto. I took a photo of the old one (Dorman tank) that shows the crack at the bottom.

I found the leak on accident. I was looking at the suspension on the passengers side and noticed coolant on the sub frame. I didn't immediately notice the crack in the tank, in fact it took a mirror and flashlight to find the crack while it was still in the car.
 

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wow i never got one off those prb in my 94 lol

but now i have a prb with my 90 sho i need to find a replacement tank since mine is leaking as hell
both side are cracked started to use some tank repair stuff but for some odd reason i got enought to fix one side lol

now i have to try and fix the second line

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=9022...mp;id=744785006

im just getting desperate
 
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