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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
A few more quick tips.

Yes, true, thanks, very important. Seal up all those important bolt holes / threads with the thread sealer with Teflon. Earlier posts give some details. Another person mentioned that PERMATEX makes a good thread sealer in a tube. Permatex products seem to be very good, and widely available . re: I used the The Permatex Black slow drying, gasket maker / sealer as a gasket sealer.


Again - I cleaned up ALL the bolt hole threads with a correct TAP.
And - I wire brushed all bolt threads etc. on a wire wheel machine so they're clean, get all the rust and old sealer off, and then I apply NEW sealer - so it'll assemble, torque, and seal well ...hopefully.


Anti-seeze compound where you do not need sealer. So can take apart in the future if necessary.


Quickly - Another couple tricks hints I forgot to mention:


ALUMINUM FOIL COVER HELD WITH SOME MAGNETS.
While scraping off old gasket on the block - you want to prevent crap from getting into the Oil Pan opening below, or onto your timing gears. So should find a way to cover that opening.


One idea I found online - and worked for me - make a temp cover with ALUMINUM FOIL - and use some MAGNETS to hold it in place on the nearby inside surface of the BLOCK. Block on this car is cast iron. Magnets work. I tried cutting up some fridge magnet cards / strips - but not powerful enough. I had some stronger disk magnets or even could use magnetic pickup tool(s) in a few spots to hold it in place.


The Aluminum Foil conforms itself well - you can form it to fit the space needed and it almost will stay in place by itself.


Princess Auto here sells some magnetic strips, and some disc ceramic magnets and more powerful metal disc magnets in a multi pack. I just used a few odd magnets I had around.


If you do get crap in the pan - you could open up the plug and try to rinse out the bottom of the pan with some solvent down into you catch pan below. Might work.


Put some THREAD SEALANT INTO THE BOLT HOLES - JUST BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE COVER. And also- onto the full length of the threads of the bolts.
I reasoned it this way - when I push the bolts through the cover holes and gaskets to install - it will scrape off a lot of the thread sealer. So I took one of those small wooden coffee cup stir sticks you get at Starbucks or whatever ... and fed in some sealer into the block thread holes before I painted the Permatex Black gasket sealer onto the block. When I install the bolts - it will drive that sealer inward, ensuring I have some good sealer right to the end of the threads.


In addition, I take an old toothbrush, and paint / put the thread sealer onto the full length of the bolt threads before I install them.


ARTIST PAINT BRUSH - ONE ABOUT 3/8 INCH WIDE, FLAT, WITH SEMI-STIFF BRISTLES.
This little tool helps immensely painting on the Permatex Black gasket sealer - in many places.
Princess Auto also sells a multi-pack of multi-purpose little brushes like that.
They are handy for many things ... applying GLUE or SEALER or GREASE ... whatever.
Helps keep your hands clean too. Puts the sealer where you need it, accurately, and no where else.


Old toothbrushes are good for many things like this too. Great. Gets the Thread Sealer down into the threads of the bolts ... completely .


cheers... happy front cover and water pump work ... if you do this job.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
There's another person in another thread - that had a problem with "NO POWER" from his engine - and given that I did my Timing Set / Timing Gears and Chain - I realized something.


If his Timing Gears / Chain were really loose - and slipped a tooth ... then that is a common major reason why an engine will have really poor performance. Might still run even, but will have very low power.


Valve Timing will be way off. So will ignition and injection timing I am guessing - because this engine's computer is going off a Cam Position Sensor running off the Cam shaft gear ... just like the old V8 distributors with points and rotor etc.


In other words .. I am guessing that the car's computer will be fooled into thinking the engine timing is much different than it really is - and will do fuel injection and spark timing all OFF . As well as the mechanical valve timing - just being really off.


Anyway ... should mention to that fellow in that other thread ... will try to find that thread again now.


I suggested fuel starvation or MAF sensor not working correctly. He had a hole in the plastic intake manifold as well he was trying to get fixed. And suspected EGR problems too - the feed tube for the EGR getting really hot.


They suspected Blocked Cats too. Blocked Catalytic Convertors - giving exhaust restriction.
 

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Discussion Starter #103 (Edited)
Timing Cover job - Some Bolt Torque spec's

So I mentioned I would try and list some Bolt Torque specs that I looked up for the Timing Cover job.

I got these from my 2000 Ford Taurus service manual on CD.


SUMMARY OF TORQUE specs on mine:


CAMSHAFT SPROCKET TO CAMSHAFT BOLT: 46 FT-LBS

TIMING COVER TO BLOCK BOLTS ( 8 mm bolts ) - 18 FT-LBS (I have TEN total on mine w/a few different socket sizes)

WATER PUMP to Timing Cover SMALLER BOLTS ( ? 6mm bolts / 8mm socket size ) - 89 inch-LBS = 7.5 FT-LBS ( I have FIVE total on mine )

CRANKSHAFT CENTER DAMPER BOLT: 107 FT-LBS

CRANKSHAFT PULLEY TO CRANKSHAFT DAMPER BOLTS (X4): 35 FT-LBS

BELT TENSIONER: 35 FT-LBS (Torx T-50)

BELT IDLER: 35 FT-LBS ( long bolt holding the belt idler wheel to large AL casting "cradle". I think it was a 15 mm socket size. )

WATER PUMP PULLEY TO WATER PUMP BOLTS: 18 FT-LBS (FOUR TOTAL)




Same info with details / tips / notes:


TIMING SET, TIMING CHAIN & GEARS RELATED:

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET TO CAMSHAFT BOLT: 46 FT-LBS

[this is the "special" bolt which holds the larger camshaft timing gear to the camshaft.]
["Special" - cause it has some specific holes drilled into it, to flow oil to the timing gears and chain. Do not replace this with anything else - for sure ... manual says. ]
[ It is also a high strength bolt, and you definitely want to torque this one correctly. Tight enough so it does not come loose. Not so tight it could break / or fail in operation. yikes! ]



TIMING COVER AND WATER PUMP RELATED BOLTS:

(The main/larger TC timing cover bolts)

TIMING COVER TO BLOCK BOLTS ( 8 mm bolts ) - 18 FT-LBS

(go through the TC to the block. Some thru the WP water pump as well.)

these are the "larger" 8mm diameter TC bolts

10 bolts total on mine - a few different socket sizes / head sizes:
- socket size is 13 mm for seven of them.
- socket size is 17mm on two bolts on the very bottom LEFT side of my TC ... and are different - like studs with a nut which other things attach to (ex. tin heat shield over a CAT convertor).
- socket size is 10mm on one single TC bolt on the very bottom / RIGHT side of the TC on mine, for some reason.

note: I went over these TC cover and WP bolts - MULTIPLE TIMES - with the torque wrench to make sure they have the correct torque in the end to SEAL.
The gaskets and the sealer "gives" slowly as they dry and settle into their final state. suggest: keep going over them multiple times at correct torque, until
they SETTLE to the correct torque and no longer move anymore ... that's what I did.


WATER PUMP to Timing Cover SMALLER BOLTS ( ? 6mm bolts / 8mm socket size ) - 89 inch-LBS = 7.5 FT-LBS ( I have FIVE total on mine )

[go through WP to TC only. Do not go into block. Obviously a lot smaller in size, so a lot less torque. I just guess-timate'd torque on them / did them by hand - snug - with a small 1/4 drive ratchet - since the torque is small / smaller than what my 3/8 drive torque wrench will do accurately. ]




HARMONIC BALANCER / DAMPER:

CRANKSHAFT CENTER DAMPER BOLT: 107 FT-LBS [ M14 X 1.5 X 45 BOLT ... 21mm socket size on mine. ya the big center one . ]

( a long 20" 1/2" drive extension bar - helped alot, and is just long enough to get you out through the fender well, past the fender, where you can apply this large torque by hand. )
( I did it with a larger 1/2" drive torque wrench, outer end supported on top of the round base part of an axle stand on the ground, pushing downwards.)

CRANKSHAFT PULLEY TO CRANKSHAFT DAMPER BOLTS (X4): 35 FT-LBS [ M10 X 1.5 X 50 BOLTS. 13mm socket size on mine. Four total. ]




SERPENTINE BELT RELATED:

BELT TENSIONER: 35 FT-LBS (Torx T-50)

(a TORX T-50 head, long bolt, holding the belt tensioner wheel "arm" pivot point. note: The tensioner internal spiral tension spring "tang" extends out the tensioner base, and has to fit into a little hole in the casting near the bolt hole...to assemble correctly, to give the tension. Torque correctly - aluminum threads ! it goes into an aluminnum casting and you don't wanna strip it out)

BELT IDLER: 35 FT-LBS ( long bolt holding the belt idler wheel to large AL casting "cradle". I think it was a 15 mm socket size. )


WATER PUMP PULLEY TO WATER PUMP BOLTS: 18 FT-LBS (FOUR TOTAL)

[the water pump pulley on mine is black plastic, I think, so you don't want to over torque these - you could crack the plastic pulley.]
[able to "hold" the pulley with a strap wrench tool, with a "longish" rubber strap needed to go all the way around the larger size pulley - while I torque the 4 bolts w/torque wrench]
 

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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
DIY Puller for Harmonic Balancer - completed the tool now.

So I completed the DIY / home made Puller for the Harmonic Balancer a week or so ago - made from the black steel square.

The job on the car is done already ... but I went ahead afterwards now ... and completed my DIY / home made puller finally.

Found a suitable 1/2" Bolt with a long thread as the drive screw, and found friend who is a welder, to do me a favour and weld the NUT to the square,
and worked out the ball bearing swivel point and 5/8" end push "boss" point.

I pulled the Balancer off before - by just using the square, a loose nut & washer behind, another screw off another puller, a wrench, and an improvised "boss" at end ( a socket around 5/8" on outside ).

But here now is a picture of the completed DIY / homemade tool - complete with a spare 1/2" Ball Bearing - as the twist / swivel point. This should work really well.



The ends of the 1/2" bolt screw (with long threads) and the end of the 5/8" BOSS - were drilled a bit endwise (chamfered) then semi-sphered / cupped a bit with a 1/2" round hard spherical cutter, to make abit of a "divot" to accept the 1/2" ball bearing as the twist / swivel point. Should work good. Add a little grease when pulling.

A short piece of clear hose / correct size - holds the affair at the end together (ball and boss to end of bolt)- so it does not fly all apart in use.

I think this sort of thing will work well.

[ All made improvised with "STUFF" / loose parts I had lying around. Yes ... I am a pack rat too. Keep various H/W & parts sorted in bins / jars etc. ]

-
There in the picture are the longer installer bolts as well. Used M14 x 1.5 metric lug bolts - around 2.5 and 3 inch long. Found used from a tire shop.
 

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You are on the right track. I have had several very small leaks from where the timing cover meets the block closest to the firewall. This is difficult to see and the droplets go behind the engine. On 1 car I tried a bars leak type product and all it did was plug my heater core :( I tried to tighten the bolts I can get to but am not sure it really helpd. I'm just adding a quart of fluid every couple months since replacing the timing cover with a new one (I believe they warp) is a fairly big job.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
It was still consuming some coolant, ongoing, with no visible leak, esp. when hot and running.

Finally one of the pesky leaks revealed itself with a small puddle of green under the car.

Looking from underneath, green droplets could be seen under the rubber elbow which is the
outlet from the heater core on the engine side of the firewall.

It looks as if it was leaking from the CRIMP between that rubber elbow and transition to those pesky steel tubes
on the firewall.

STEEL TUBES AND ALL THAT SETUP ON THE FIREWALL HAVE NOW BEEN REMOVED, AND REPLACED WITH
NEW 3/4" HEATER HOSE, 3/4" NYLON BARB TEES, TRANSITIONING TO 5/8" HEATER HOSE DOWN TO THE
HEATER CORE INPUT AND OUTPUT.

Removal of those steel tubes and old original setup is very very difficult, access only from the top, and limited space
to get your hands / arms in and down deep to work on that. Undoing the clamps to the heater core elbows difficult.

I put a 2x4 across the engine bay and supported by some wood blocks to support a square piece of plywood over the engine with a
soft carpet on top, supported above the engine, not pressing down on anything so I could lie on top and work down inside.

But tough job, and having to push my hands and arms down inside there, very tight fit, tough on forearms and hands.

Many vinyl gloves used, dirty messy job.

I retained my bypass tube extensions up to the top with brass standard hose fitting connection, so I can flush the
heater core independently, easily.

Will monitor again and see if still consumes coolant.

Gotta go now.

Tough, dirty messy job. Time consuming. I do not think a garage or mechanic would want to do this work.

All the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Yes, this tool would have definitely helped a a lot, as one of the challenges was to get that
lower (heater core exit) hose clamp compressed and slipped back on the rubber elbow.

I managed to do it with a small set of vice grips (like maybe a 4" or 5" pair) and getting it adjusted just right.
(but yes, very tough part of the job as the tangs were turned downwards and interference / blocked by other hoses
etc. trying to work in that tight space)

Gave the car a good run, but started to leak again, at one of the new clamp connections.

Re-tightened / re- checked all the new "All SS" worm gear clamps - and not leaking anywhere there now - seems.

Continuing to monitor for any consumption / and how much.

Will take some time to know, if still consuming any or what or how much.

Man o man ...
 

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Discussion Starter #109 (Edited)
That STINKER of a CAR - hope not stinking anymore now. LOL (Burning Coolant leak)

A moment now to add a few more comments.

On the original set up with the hoses and steel tubes on the firewall:

Once the clamps were slipped back, and rubber elbows were slipped off the heater core inlet / outlet,
removing that whole set up was not easy.

Two 10 mm nuts on studs on the firewall, holding the steel tubes.
one of the 10 mm nuts well hidden on the passenger side, and very hard to get to.

The steel tube that goes over to the driver's side hose to the top of the engine / thermostat
area - does a curve / bend underneath and around / behind a plastic tube of some sort that
goes downwards on the firewall.

That steel tube had to be CUT, close in there at the bend, in order to be able to remove it from the car.

No way to get anything in there to cut that steel tube, except with the use of a DREMEL, and
the FLEX EXTENSION attachment, and the little ceramic cutting wheel on the 1/8" shaft - to get in there.

Thankfully, a very useful tool and attachment I have for it - the DREMEL with FLEX SHAFT attachment and
the little cutting wheels.
... and cut slowly and carefully around the outside of the steel tube - until severed.

Very tight spot to get in and cut that steel tube.
And Brake Master Cylinder, and other wires and connectors, right near there.
Had to be careful not to cut other stuff in there.

The main problem with this miserable job is the tight access - and other sensors and tubes and wires, in the way, there along the top of the engine bay, near the firewall. And also the dirty greasy mess, contaminated with leaked coolant.
i.e. the EGR controls - DPFE sensor, Vac Modulator thingy, associated tubes and wires, and inherent tight space to work there, given the V-6 setup, upper intake manifold there making a tight almost impossible access to work there, and down on the firewall, with the HOOD tight close right above.

Note: The 3/4" White Nylon TEES (hose barb fittings) I found, are made by a U.S. Company called Green Leaf, and were found at a TSC store (The Incredible Country Hardware store, something like that. Former CoOp (farm supply) store here in town.)

the white nylon Tees look pretty tough and good quality, and I hope can handle the pressure and temperature of engine coolant. so far so good.

[ I do not know if the grey POLY plastic TEES I saw would be good enough to handle the temps and pressure there. I do not think I would want to try POLY plastic tees there. Maybe we can research this later. If POLY or NYLON are rated good enough for this purpose. I'd get solid BRASS TEES if you can. ]

I have seen 3/4" , solid BRASS TEES / fittings / Barbs - for 3/4" hose at a LOWES hardware store - in the U.S. (but not in the CANADA Lowes here, too bad. Sometimes we have LESS SELECTION here in CANADA, at the Canadian version of the U.S. store.)

BRASS TEES might be the ultimate in durability, performance and reliability, for the heat and pressure.

I hope the good quality white NYLON ones I used from Green Leaf will be OK. ( ? 220 deg F. and 15 PSI ? )

Anyway, another challenge is getting the transition to 5/8" hoses down to the Heater core inlet & outlet, to slip over the 3/4" Barb of the TEE. But it is possible, I did it, although it took some effort & force.

I wish FORD would have made it ALL either 3/4" hoses and nipples, or ALL 5/8" hoses and nipples. This extra complication is really unnecessary I think.

Dear FORD. Choose Please... either all 3/4" ... or all 5/8" ... and use tough materials here that do *NOT* RUST. STEEL Tubes - really not appropriate here.

Two simple tough TEES (of a material that will never RUST or leak or crack or melt) and HOSE - all the same standard diameter - would do this job very simply.

Two Tough 3/4" BRASS TEES .

And good quality ALL SS clamps.

ALL 3/4" or ALL 5/8" hoses and nipples. No mixing and matching. Extra unnecessary complication, "Dear Ford".

The extra complication of steel tubes and crimps and hoses of different sizes - proves to be "difficult".

And that beeping V-6 Transverse mounted engine - makes service access back there, very difficult. And location of EGR system and controls on this car - OMG.

Oh well ... I guess that is the set up on this particular car.

That "STINKER" of a Car has been stinking of burning coolant, dripping down from that steel tube set up, onto hot exhaust below, for quite a few years now.

Drips down slowly and gets vapourized on the exhaust below, steams upward, and then gets drawn into the ventillation system above, and then some gets pulled into the car ... via the ventillation system inlet, and the people in the car then smell it / breath it. Darn it, that is NFG.

THAT STINKER ... I HOPE WILL STOP STINKING AT LEAST NOW.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
A quick search on the internet appears to show that NYLON fittings should be good operating up to 185 degrees Celcius, and down pretty low to, like -40 degrees Celcius. Pressures up near 70 psi. Car coolant might get up to 110 C and 15 or 16 PSI. Hopefully good then. Hopefully underhood temps don't get too high. Says Nylon melts at 220 degrees Celcius. Think should be o.k. Will see in practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Nylon 66 - some temp data found on the internet:

"Nylon is excellent in high temperature applications. The normal short-term use temperature range is -40˚F to +390˚F (-40˚C to +199˚C). Nylon is however, a hygroscopic resin. Therefore, physical properties which varies as the relative humidity changes."

Other info:

Source:
Minimum and Maximum Operating Temperatures

Nylon 66SA, operating temperatures:

Min Continuous: -30 Deg Celcius Max Continuous Operation: +95 deg Celcius

[ Short term min temp: -40 C Short Term max temp: +180 C ]

Comment:
So... Nylon fittings might be O.K. / seems to be in the right temperature application ranges - but approaching the high temperature limits of Nylon. Coolant temps in the 220-230 deg F range, which are probably around 110 deg C.

and - under hood temperatures - not sure, for example in very hot weather - under hood, near engine / firewall / above exhaust manifolds.

These TEES / fittings are maybe a foot above one exhaust manifold, and above parts of exhaust system further down, at the back of the engine compartment on the firewall.

But yet we also have RUBBER HEATER HOSE in that area too.

Reading a lot on line that Nylon (and other plastics) are indeed used a lot in auto cooling system applications, in place of metal like aluminum - in places like end tanks of radiators, other "hot" places. To save weight and cost. Valve covers, thermostat housings, intake manifolds, even oil pans too.

But maybe different stuff, like specialized plastics and composites, designed and tested for higher temps - like fibreglass reinforced thermoplastics etc.

Nylon fittings look O.K. for this use - not totally out of line - but reaching the high temperature continuous operating range of the material (nylon).


BRASS TEES go to higher temps.

3/4" PEX brass tees are seen at Canadian Tire for a very affordable price. Might work, but PEX fittings are not exactly a correct type of barb for heater hose. Not sure if will seal correctly / perfectly.

Real 3/4" BRASS TEES with REAL HOSE BARBS are obtainable for a reasonable price as well.
Seen at LOWES in the USA on the shelf / but not seen in the CANADA LOWES. (seems less selection in CANADA Lowes).

I guess will see this summer / and in the longer term if the white NYLON TEES I did use, hold up.

[ The White nylon 3/4" tees, I found locally here in Canada, at TSC store, Tractor Supply Company TSCO, "The Incredible Country Hardware Store", long ago, a former CoOp Farm Supply store location. ]

Made by manufacturer: GreenLeaf
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Been working on another Coolant Leak.

After removing and replacing the (leaking) steel tubes on firewall
(leaking at the crimp between heater core outlet rubber elbow 90, and the crimp transition to steel tube).

The new 3/4" heater hose I used to replace steel tubes.

Where the new hose is clamped to the nipple going to the fittings going to the Thermostat housing.
(top of engine, driver's side).

Was dripping / leaking a little when hot and pressurized.
Creating little green puddles of coolant on the webbing of the casting of the Transmission housing just below.

I kept trying to tighten up / snug up the worm drive clamp, which would help, for awhile, but I kept monitoring
and that little leak kept coming back.

I was confused how this was continuing to leak there.

Thought about it, and realized, from memory, from past inspection and clean up of rust on that steel nipple,
that I may have a pin hole in the steel nipple (possible / guess / not totallly sure) sort of half way along it.

It is kind of a long steel nipple. There are some small corrosion pitts in the middle of it ( I think ).

Right now, I do not want to try and disassemble this - so I decided to try this :

So I put now, a second clamp near to the beginning of the nipple.
(theory - to clamp down the rubber hose before the possible pin hole pitting / and seal it that way)

It is now double clamped with two good "ALL SS" all stainless, worm gear clamps.

So far, after a few runs, I do not see any leakage there.

Continuing to monitor for leakage there / anywhere else - and monitor consumption rate in the plastic reservoir bottle.

"Slowly winning the Battle" - to find any / all leaks and fix them. To minimize consumption.

To try and determine if anything is being burned or consumed or leaked internally.

Ongoing.

The leaks come up in the darndest places / in the strangest ways. Man o man.
 

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Been working on another Coolant Leak.

The leaks come up in the darndest places / in the strangest ways. Man o man.
I hear ya. I found a green drip hanging on the bottom of the transmission on my '89 mazda pickup last week. I can't find any puddles anywhere. Level is down but not bad. Just replaced most of the hoses 2 years ago. It's always something. Thankfully the oil looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS - TO FIND OUT IF COOLANT IS GETTING INTO OIL / AND HOW MUCH ...


Sent away today, used engine oil samples, for ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS.

Hoping to learn if Coolant (glycol and water) is getting into my oil and how much / how badly.
Plus all the other tests they do.

Very interested in what the results might be. And to compare the results from the two companies, for same used oil sample.


Same used oil sample going to TWO (2) different companies that do it here in CANADA.


One company, by asking local garage(s) / parts store. (Wear Check Canada Inc, Burlington Ontario Canada)

One I found online on the web by searching (thru website OilDepot.ca, an AMSOIL rep) and made contact that way.



Wear Check Canada Inc.
C8 - 1175 Appleby Line
Burlington, Ontario, CANADA
L7L 5H9

1-800-268-2131 (905) 569-8600

fax 905-569-8605




Engine Oil Analysis through:
--------------------------------

OilDepot.ca

AMS Oil authorized dealer

Canadian Oil Analysis Kits
Lab in Edmonton
Kits shipped from Edmonton or Mississauga (near Toronto)

Kit 401 UPS PrePaid Kit (w/UPS return label)
Kit 402 Non Postage Pail Oil Analysis Kit
Kit 403 Coolant Sample Kit

Turn around is 24-48 hours once oil is rec'd by LAB.

To order Kit, call: 1-800-748-5781 or use the online contact form and put "Oil Analysis" in the comments.


I FIGURE IT MAY TAKE A COUPLE OF WEEKS TO GET THE RESULTS.
I WILL TRY TO POST / SHARE RESULTS.
 

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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
One Oil Analysis result came in from Oil Analyzers Inc.

Summary:

Lubricant Analysis Report

0-4 rating system at top:

scale / color / result
0 - no color - normal
1 - green - normal
2 - yellow - abnormal
3 - orange - abnormal
4 - red - critical

WEAR METALS:
metal / ppm / number color rating

iron 180 3 orange abnormal
chromium 1 green normal
nickel 0
aluminum 4 0 no color normal
copper 9 0 no color normal
lead 428 4 red critical
tin 5 2 yellow abnormal

cadmium 0
silver 0
vanadium 0

CONTAMINANT METALS:
silicon 43 2 yellow abnormal
sodium 546 4 red critical
potassium 63 2 yellow abnormal


MULTI-SOURCE METALS:
titanium 16 0 no color normal
molybdenum 19 0
antimony 11 0
manganese 2 0
lithium 0
boron 22 0

ADDITIVE METALS:
magnesium 347 0 no color normal
calcium 778 0
barium 0
phosphorus 641 0
zinc 621 0


Fuel Dilution % vol is 1.7 - GC and showing as 1 green normal

Water % vol is <0.1% and showing as 1 green normal

Comments: Suggest inspecting this unit for excessive bearing wear. Suggest inspecting cooling system
(head gasket, heads, seals, EGR gaskets etc for leaks. Coolant indicators (sodium and/or potassium) are
at a severe level. Bearing metal is at severe level. Cylinder region metals (pistons rings liners etc) are at a signifigant level. Silicon may be a coolant additive. Water is at a minor level. Fuel dilution is at a minor level. Please provide missing fluid product name to compare data to the correct standards. Test results tend to support suspicions raised by your note.


So, this oil was only in the engine for 1000 km, city local short trip driving mostly over this winter.

"provide missing fluid product name" they want the exact make and brand of oil used.
I only told them Valvoline Full Synthetic 5W30 on the form. So they would like to know the EXACT brand
and type of oil used in the engine. Good if you can give them that info, exact.

So looks like YES, I am getting coolant into my oil, and it is causing issues.

Likely Head Gasket, or or other issue, like crack in block or head, or seep somewhere.

Engine itself is not showing any major signs or problems yet.
Likely because I am changing the oil and filter pretty often now - but NOT GREAT .
I am thinking if I should try to do head gaskets on this car this summer or not, or keep going until the
real problem actually reveals itself - ie -when the head gasket really blows ... then I know for sure
that is the problem, and fix it ... or not ...

given age and mileage of car ... if wanna keep it, and wanna do head gasket, considering doing an engine rebuild project, take engine out of car and replace all bearings / do a rebuild. Not sure.

Anyway - still consuming some coolant and not leaking it out.

Still adding coolant occassionally. Still monitoring and changing oil more often .
Still driving it with no major symptoms. Runs pretty good actually ...

Awaiting the Oil Analysis from the second company.
 
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