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Here's a question. Was your idle affected in anyway? If so how much. I just or done installing a CAI on my 04 Vulcan. It sounds awesome but I've noticed an increase in idle speed. I do not know wether this is good or bad or if there's some way to adjust it.
 

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Your idle should not be effected. The Idle Air Controller should adjust the idle speed as needed for engine load, as well as other factors under idle. If your idle speed has increased, then the IAC is attempting to compensate for something that it thinks has been added. The computer controls idle speed, you cannot adjust it.

Just to be sure, you didn't remove your mass airflow sensor right? I would clean it off with some CRC MAF cleaner.

What do you mean by high idle? What is it idling at?

You can get the same sound and in my opinion better performance by just removing the intake silencer from the drivers side fender well and installing a K&N panel filter. Post a picture of your setup though!
 

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Gotchya. That is high. Is the A/C compressor on? Is the engine at operating temperature? Did you only test the idle while in park/neutral?

If you pull up to a stoplight while in gear (obviously), leave it in gear, and your car is at operating temperature, is idle normal?

When the car is cold, it will sometimes still idle higher to warm up all the way to operating temp if you just leave it in park.
 

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A/C compressor? What's that? Haha JK, that actually seize up on me about 10,000 miles back so I just bypassed it. Yes it was at operating temp and it was only in park that it would idle high. I just went out and started it to get a pic and it was idling at 800 solid. That's about normal for me. Before I did any of the intake mods it fluctuated between 600-800 rpm and it would throw a P0300 code every once in awhile but since then it seems to idle smoother and not fluctuate
 

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Pictures don't work, attach them here. They probably haven't been approved yet.

Answer the questions above so we can help diagnose?
 

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No, the A/C compressor does not spin at all for it is bypassed. As for the idle I did only test it in park/neutral. It's the only I really notice it. When coming to a stoplight and its at operating temp the idle is about the same as if it were in park/neutral. And as far as it being at operating temp it was as far as I could tell
 

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So after you have been driving the car for 15 minutes, you get to where you are going, put it in park, and the idle goes to 900rpm? Sorry, just have to make sure. Just answer yes or no haha. If you don't know, go drive for 15 mins and then put it in park before you turn it off see if the idle is high.
 

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Okay so I went for a drive after school for 15 mins. I got back put it in park and saw that it might be idling at 900 rpm. To be sure I got into engineering mode and it was telling me that it was idling from 700-750 rpm which would make the other tach incorrect. So I guess it's okay but thanks for the help. It's much appreciated.
 

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Well good! I guess it's just the tach is not calibrated correctly... if you ever want to pull off the dashboard and recalibrate it have fun haha!

Here any time to help!
 

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CAI don't make enough power to notice diffrence, they however sound good and make your car look like it has had some money invested, but all a trick, pod filters don't trap micro particles like your stock filters will, and as for being cold air!! your stock intake system brings air in from the outside, I-E cold air, recommend that you remove intake silencer and enjoy the sound without the extra contamination!!! OR spending the money!
 

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Finally finished mine. Wasn't too bad once I found an adapter that actually worked, albeit with some modifications.
If anyone else out there wants to know what I did, here:
Note that this is the Vulcan engine by the way, and its only a MAF-down intake (I left the accordion pipe)

Parts I used: Ford Ranger 3.0 Maf Adapter, Spectre (note that these are all 3" wide) 6" straight pipe, Spectre 45* and 60* elbow pipes, a 3in-to-3in silicone coupler, and a cone air filter of your choice (I used spectre just cause it fit better, but K&N fit also with a little bit of maneuvering), Philips and Flat screwdriver, 10mm wrench and a slightly smaller (can't remember) wrench.

1. Take off the old box filter, everything from the silencer up to the MAF.
2. Jack the car into the air on the driver's side, take off the front wheel, and take off the front-most splash guard/wheel well plastic thing
2.5 Cry because of the rust on your car. Only applies if you live in the salt belt. :lol:
2. Screw in the MAF adapter to the MAF. You might need to make holes for the screws to go through, ( I had to for the bottom screws to play nicely)
2. Attach the coupler to the 60* elbow pipe
3. Attach the straight pipe onto the end of the 60* elbow pipe
4. Attach the 45* elbow pipe to the straight pipe
5. Wrestle with these so that the 60* elbow (the one with the coupler) meets up with the MAF adapter, and the lower 45* elbow aims out of the intake pipe's hole and downwards towards the road. You'll probably have to turn the pipes to line them up correctly.
6. Tighten the clamps on all everything when everything is lined up (including the clamps on the coupler)
7. Go under the fender and hook up the cone filter to the bottom of the 45* elbow pipe.
8. Tighten the clamp on the cone filter
9. Double check and make sure that ALL of the clamps and connections are tight!
10. Put the splash guard back into place
11. Put the wheel back on and put the car back on the ground
12. Close the hood
13. Start the car and make sure everything is good. It might be a bit louder up there now, but I quite like the noise :lol:
14. Enjoy

I will note that before I wasn't able to break the tires free, but now I can. In fact, it leaves a sizable skid mark taking off. :D
Also there's definitely a fair increase in the throttle response. The horsepower and torque are still the same, but regardless. Entire thing took about an hour because I had to keep making return trips to Advance AP to find pipes that fit right. lol
I'd say it was worth it, cost about 70 dollars in total. Although in reality it should probably be more around 50-ish since I bought some extra stuff just in case.
 

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Not to break anyone's bubble, but with further dyno tuning the results are consistent that the CAI's actually reduce horsepower and surprisingly rob a bunch of torque from the new SHO. So much, in fact, that most of use have decided to ditch the eye candy appeal of the CAI for the higher performance from the stock air box! Just an FYI.....
 

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Aftermarket or home made CAI can effectively alter the MAF transfer function reducing performance and MPG.
 
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