Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SES came on and that is the code. What is the usual fault. The car does have an exhaust leak. Will that effect this? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,047 Posts
Comment Deleted - This is a 98 Duratec engine. :mellow:
 

·
Devoted Member
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
If it's a G3 Tec, could be this passageway for EGR gas:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I had the same code on my 2000 Ford Taurus with the 3.0L Vulcan motor on. The first thing I tried was replacing the DPFE sensor which was $56 from Auto Zone. Had the code reset and the code never came back on and it also helped the motor run better. Once the check engine light came on, it ran kind of sluggish occasionally. Same part went out on my 2000 Ford Ranger with 2.5L motor but never noticed any performance difference, but the same exact code came up on both of them around the same time and took the exact same part number for both.
 

·
Devoted Member
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
Clyde, the above LIM is on a G3 (96-99) Duratec. It's right under the throttle body and easy to get to. Vulcans do not have this setup. Lot's of G3 Tec owners replace the DPFE (especially after reading Vulcan / later Tec owners posts here) and don't clear the code because of this clogged passage. The upper left side in the pic runs all the way back to the EGR valve you see in the background. Spray cleaner alone will not clear it either, think toothpicks and/or soft, bare copper wire. Doesn't cost anything to check/clean that first and see if the code clears. Running with this clog for too long can lead to DPFE / EGR eventual failure from elevated intake/combustion temps, also. 2000 and later models have the plastic UIM that doesn't clog like aluminum.

Partially cleaned up:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks. I guess I will need a new gasket, correct? Also, how hard to get to? Looks easy, but I am not near the car right now and can't see what else will need to be removed. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,047 Posts
I'll remove my attachment on the first post, I didn't know that it was a Tec :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,364 Posts
Clydesdale, remove black corrugated air hose, throttle body and gasket to clean the c-channel. Ive always reused the tb gasket. To clean the passageway, i use tb cleaner, small screwdriver(s) and baling wire. As Dan mentioned, make sure the upper left portion of the c is clean and open as it is the tunnel to the egr valve. Clean 3 notches thoroughly, too. At this time, i usually remove and clean the egr valve with tb cleaner, too. Shown top left in pic. Also a good time to check/replace pcv valve and its u-shaped upper hose connecting to the uim (manifold) just below the c-channel. While everything is apart, i would go ahead and replace the dpfe (egr pressure sensor) located below and to the right of the tb. Get the borg-warner part#egr155 from oreilly, advance or pep boys. When done, clear the code with a scan tool or disconnect the neg. batt. cable for a few minutes. Guaranteed or your money back!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thank you!!!!!!!!!! Is it necessary to replace the sensor? Is it something I can do after the fact or is it a PITA to get back at? I'm not a cheap ass, it is just the car has a rusted subframe that if I can't weld it, it may have 2 years left in the north east. Then the salt will have claimed another kill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,364 Posts
The problem for me is, if cleaning the c-channel doesnt keep the po401 light extinguished, the tb has to be re-removed to access the dpfe sensor. Of the 3 egr system components (valve, evr (solenoid on pass. side of the uim) and the dpfe), the dpfe is the most failure-prone. I also meant to mention that i reuse the egr gaskets if not damaged should you choose to remove and clean the valve. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,364 Posts
One quick way to test the egr valve and/or its c-channel passageway is, with car idling, remove vacuum hose atop egr valve and replace it with a scrap piece of vac. hose and suck on its open end. Engine should stumble or die signalling the egr valve is working (opening) properly and the tunnel is open sufficiently to allow egr flow to the manifold. Remember, there should be no egr flow at idle or wot (wide open throttle).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What does sucking the vacuum hose do?
Also, the exhaust leak is not at the connection before the flex pipe. It is somewhere up near the passenger subframe mount. So, what is back there? Is there another intermediate connection for the two exhaust manifolds or just the exhaust manifold mount at the motor? Is it likely to be the intermediate connection and if so, will that effect the egr flow or reck any sensors? Thanks man.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,364 Posts
The suck test simply opens the egr valve diaphragm to allow exhaust flow to the manifold. Should hear a little popping noise when the diaphragm opens. Dont worry, youre just applying vacuum, you wont get a mouthful of hot exhaust gas, lol. If everything is working properly (egr valve and passageway is sufficiently open), engine should immediately stumble or die.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
Manual Vacuum Pump

The suck test simply opens the egr valve diaphragm to allow exhaust flow to the manifold. Should hear a little popping noise when the diaphragm opens. Dont worry, youre just applying vacuum, you wont get a mouthful of hot exhaust gas, lol. If everything is working properly (egr valve and passageway is sufficiently open), engine should immediately stumble or die.
If the diaparagm is ruptured, you will get quite a thrill.:lol2:

Just kidding.

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
ok, is this the proper game plan? :
Remove green vac line on EGR
Replace with vacuum line
Suck
If the car stumbles and dies then the channel is clear- no need to clean etc?......
If car stumbles- clean passageway.

What if the car does not stumble??
BTW, in the first pic of the UIM- is that black buidup totally solid into the egr passages? Am I looking to pry the gunk out or can I push it forward? Do you need TB cleaner or can I use some brake cleaner?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,364 Posts
Eng. should stumble and/or die when performing the suck test signalling egr valve is opening and the channel is at least partially open to allow exhaust flow to the manifold. It stumbles because there should be no egr flow at idle. If eng. does not stumble, your egr valve is prob. dirty, stuck or faulty or channel is completely plugged not allowing flow. Try to pull the oily carbon build-up out if you can, unless you have the valve removed (which i recommend). If you push it in with the valve attached, youre shoving all that crap into the egr valve. Brake cleaner is fine. If it were me, even if the suck test is fine and bogs the eng. down, i would still clean the c-channel, passageway, egr valve and replace the dpfe. With the tb off, i would also clean/replace the pcv valve and check/replace its top u-shaped hose going to the manifold. I suppose, if you want to roll the dice, providing the suck test pulls the eng. down, you could go the easy route and just replace the dpfe, but it is a nightmare on a gen3 tec without removing at least the big black corrugated air hose and tb. Hell, i would even pull the iac and clean it with tb spray or brake cleaner and with the air hose off, spray the 2 small filament wires of the maf with crc maf cleaner. Just sayin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, the deed is done. The throttle body c-channel was gunked up. The suck test resulted in minimal stumble. Once clean and new dpfe, the suck test resulted in a significant stumble and I stopped sucking so that the car would not stall. I hope I am good to go. The only problem is that I had to remove the UIM to get to the DPFE and I re-used the gaskets. It all seems fine now, but I plan on doing gaskets when I do the plugs and wires. BTW, it has been a while, to remove the plugs and wires, do I need to remove the cowl or just the UIM? Thanks.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top