[PhatzKustomPerformance]

OK..cars startin to whoop my butt. Got everything replaced (ALOT of stuff..sensors..ect) and it runs pretty good, with a little rough idle. Started throwing a code 301..misfire cyl 1. Swapped plugs..threw it again. Swapped plug wires (wires/plugs brand new)..threw the code again. This is driving me NUTS!! Anyone have a clue? I know the mis-firing is why it lops a bit at a stop in gear (idles fine in park) but good lord! Thanks in advance guys!

 

[Guest]

How does the plug look on the #1 cylinder? Mine did the same thing when the head gasket started to go.

 

[PhatzKustomPerformance]

plug is perfect, dry and grey. And the head gaskets were just replaced. We drove it on a 10 hour trip (5 there..5 back) and it runs like a top at speed. Replaced head gaskets, thermostat, plugs, wires, egr valve, DFPE, fuel filter, CTS..and even picked up like 80 miles to a tank! Problem is it still runs rough in gear..park isnt bad at all. It is whooping my butt..aarrgghh!!

 

[jj57]

Did you swap plugs and wires with number 2? If so, then you would have a code P0302, missfire #2.

Check the Coil pack, and for ANY signs of coolant in that hole.

 

[PhatzKustomPerformance]

Started by swapping plug from cyl 1 to cyl 4..if 304 poppedup it was the plug..but it threw 301. Swapped wire from cyl 1 with cyl 2..if 302 pooped up it was a wire, it threw 301. Like I said, plugs and wires are new, so I doubted those were the problem. So here it throws 301 still and runs rough..really startin to confuse me. Looked at #1 in the coil..its clean and dryin there..just has dylectic grease in there is all. Doubt its a stuck valve but ran some Lucas oil aditive and a can of Restore through it. Ran Lucas gas treatment in it a tank ago,going to try finding B-12, but this is really driving me NUTS!! Thanks again in advance for the help!

 

[Guest]

Well, if all else fails, I have an extra coil pack somewhere in my mess. If you want to try it to eliminate that, let me know and I'll ship it to you.

 

[PhatzKustomPerformance]

Thanks for the offer Bob, but cant I somehow check it for good operation? This is what I love about boards..the sharing of knowledge and the good things folks do. Could it be a valve sticking? Or would it actually throw a code for that? I am use to import motorcycles and autos..and SHOs (but those are imports also..hehe) and this is really whoopin my arse! My roomate is so happy to be driving her car again, she LOVES her Bull (now if I could get that body kit from Japan for it..ugh!) and want to get it right for her. Thanks again for the help!

 

[Guest]

Do a compression test on #1 if you think there's a hung valve. The car will not throw a code specifically for a valve, just the problems that result from it that throw the sensors off. I have to admit though, this is a little strange. New plugs, wires, head gasket's good, and still the misfire....

I'm unsure how to check the coil, that's why I keep a spare known good unit hanging around. Yep, jackass mechanics at their best.

 

[mobiuslogic]

Just unscrew the plug out, leave it connected to the wire, put on a leather glove and unplug the injector. Then holding the wire (or the plug), touch the electrode (the hook, which is also connected to the threads) and ground it to the engine block. You should SEE it spark. If it's not sparking, then something is likely wrong with the plug, the wire, or the coil pack.
Did you set the gap right on the plugs? I'd check that first. Wouldn't take a lot to throw a misfire code.
Swap the plug and wire with a known working cylinder to the #1 coil. If the know working plug/wire won't fire on the #1 coil, then the packs toast. I'd check the gap first and do a compression check also.

-mobiuslogic

 

[PhatzKustomPerformance]

Went and replaced the new plugs with Bosh +4's and it helped a little, but its not perfect. Like I said..the good thing is we picked up 100 miles per tank now!! I need to check the spark..like I said I swapped plugs, it threw the same code. I swapped wires, it threw the same code..so maybe it IS the coil pack. I am starting to loose my MIND I tell ya!!

 

[Burt the boater]

OK, I too have a P0301 missfire on cylinder #1. 96 Taurus 24V Duratec. I replaced plugs, wires, and upper intake gasket about 1 year ago. I just replaced the plug on cylinder #1. It missfires when cold (intermittently), then runs better when warmed up (170F). The scanner indicates P0301 each time it misses (four times in last 30 days). The car has been idling rough in the last 30-45 days. It ran fine right after I replaced the #1 plug for a day, but I noticed it was a rather dry day. It has missed at cold start and has a rough idle (MIL is on again).

I will try Mobius' spark check at cold start.

I see a few postings under "missfire" that claim an injector was to blame.

 

[spy2520]

I had the same code, i bought one new plug and pulled the #1 out. It still threw the code. So I ended up rotating all the plugs with one new plug in there. I had put the new plug in #1. After rotationg ALL the plugs the new plug was at #3. No more codes. it was more of a senseless act than my actually fixing something though.

 

[Burt the boater]

OK, spark check on #1 is fine. I checked cold - when it usually misfires with a blinking MIL. The spark is blue and consistent. Thanks Mobius.

I plan to disconnect the PCM and plug it back in. A pin check from #71 to #75 should indicate the proper resistance to the #1 injector.

I wonder if I can get the infrared temperature reader to take the exhaust manifold temperatures for the rear cylinders.



How do you put in all that cool stuff to the left and in the signature block?

 

[tmonster]

What kind of wires are you using? Did you get the light while driving, or around when you first started it?

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by Burt the boater@Aug 15 2004, 12:13 PM
How do you put in all that cool stuff to the left and in the signature block?

Look to the top of the page, towards the right. You'll see a title called "My controls" in bold lettering. Click on that, and you can make a signature, and upload an avatar. Member titles (under the avatar) can't be changed until you reach 100 posts. Let me know if you have any trouble, I'll be glad to help you!

 

[jj57]

Ok,

Dealt with this on a friends car 2 weeks ago.

If any misfire code is thrown after replacing the plugs and wires, lets say P0302 (misfire #2) then swap the plug and wire with a good one, lets say number 3. If you then get a code of P0303 (misfire #3) then either the plug or wire is the problem.

If the original code (P0302) returns, then check the cylinder for compression and antifreeze containmation (head gasket problem) if they check out ok, then there is a 99% chance the coil is bad. This can be confirmed by checking it with an Ohm meter for proper resistance between the pins.

Some folks say that it could be an injector, this is true, however, on an OBD II vehicle, you will get a code for an injector circuit malfunction or a high or low voltage condition.

 

[Burt the boater]

Thanks Bob, Monster, JJ.

I pulled the PCM conector and did a resistance check across #71 and #75 for the Fuel Injector circuit - the resistance varied from 11.0 to 22.0 ohms. That was strange.

The plugs on #1 and #4 are as clean as can be. There are no signs of loosing coolant or bubbles in the overflow while running.

The exhaust manifold on the "front" side runs from 387F to 400F. I would have to jack the car up to get to the rear manifold.

MIL is off today, but car idles rough and seems to miss.

It looks tight back there - if I take this thing apart again, I plan to put in the Motorcraft Wires (thanks Bob) and a new coil (thanks JJ).

This might take a couple of weeks - Charley messed things up here. No work today - power is out.

 

[Burt the boater]

OK, tried alternate ignition wire for number 1, verified injector wire pulse (light blinks), and installed new coil pack.

It still mifires, MIL is on, code P0301 indicates misfire on cylinder #1. I noticed the crank position sensor can be pulled part way out, but requires the alternator to be removed. Can this sensor be tested?

Any other ideas?

 

[Xmann01]

Originally posted by JJ57@Aug 16 2004, 12:51 AM
Ok,

Dealt with this on a friends car 2 weeks ago.

If any misfire code is thrown after replacing the plugs and wires, lets say P0302 (misfire #2) then swap the plug and wire with a good one, lets say number 3. If you then get a code of P0303 (misfire #3) then either the plug or wire is the problem.

If the original code (P0302) returns, then check the cylinder for compression and antifreeze containmation (head gasket problem) if they check out ok, then there is a 99% chance the coil is bad. This can be confirmed by checking it with an Ohm meter for proper resistance between the pins.

Some folks say that it could be an injector, this is true, however, on an OBD II vehicle, you will get a code for an injector circuit malfunction or a high or low voltage condition.

Ya know... I had a problem similar to this a few weeks ago on a 96 chevy lumina 3.1..... Misfire cyl 4. Swapped wires and it stayed running the same. Swapped plugs and it was the same as well. Did an injector resistance check (and compared it with all the other cylinders) and it was all ok. I then did an injector balance and coil test. Then whaddaya know... cyl 4 injector wasn't flowing enough. The pressure drop between cylinder 4 and all the other cylinders was around 5 psi... maybe a little more. So I replaced the injector and it was good as new. So the point is... you may have proper resistance but the injector may not be flowing sufficiently. Fortunately for me I have the diagnostic tools to do this and it only took me about an hour to remove the intake (and other crap in the way....) and perform the testing. :banana:

 

[Burt the boater]

OK, I thank everyone for the help. I removed the injectors and sent them all to have them flow tested cleaned and flow tested. Injector #1 was flowing 12Ml short of the remaining injectors. Ultrasonic cleaning and another flow test indicate that all of the injectors flow 96Ml. The car runs well and the MIL is off. The engine idles smooth even at stops, but it stalled a few times. I plan to run it a few days before I try anything else (the Logic Module self learn mode might need some time).

It's nice to have my JBL sound, leather seats, climate control, and super fast electric windows back in action!

Thanks again!