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From the land of rust, I had my last rotors get rusty rings around the edges of the working area and pulsate. As well the fins rust up with crusty stuff. Pic of my new coated rotors, after couple weeks of hard use. Since we have rain every other day, plenty of chances to get wet. Hard use as, city driving, and rural 2 lane hills and curves. Brakes feel very good. Will update after some snow/salt use.


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Those are all I use anymore. The uncoated rotors rarely lasted more than 2 years. You can get coated calipers now too.
 

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Those are all I use anymore. The uncoated rotors rarely lasted more than 2 years. You can get coated calipers now too.
Raybestos ~$3.50 per more coated than bare. These ~$51 for the pair of fronts. From what I have read, the process developed for new vehicles for preventing rust while on the lot, and for appearance. Coating has to resist rust, and at the same time wear right off when the pads rub on them.


The sedan driven nearly every day of the year, and my daughter lives on a hill, up to the main road, down to the light. Up the hill to her work. So, hard use does not keep rust away.
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FNC coated rotors will have a harder surface and better stability for braking on different situations. Including friction variation due to corrosion and disc thickness variation for highway usage (DTV is a cause for cold judder, or brake roughness)
This is better paired with NAO pads, do not pair with low-steel
 

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After one really tough rust belt winter I am rotating my tires and checking condition of all. Just starting to show some rust in the fin area. Uncoated ones here will have crusty rust by now. Cleaned and de-glazed the old pads when changing rotors, they will outlast the car. Brakes have great feel.


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They will rust up eventually but last way longer. Just did a set of Raybestos coated on the front of the wife's Equinox yesterday. Now if they could coat the pad backing plates so they don't rust and swell and bind causing drag / wear. This salt zone maint. routine is starting to get old.....
 

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There are some ZnNi coated backplates on the market already. This will prevent not only drag, but also reduce the likelihood of brake squeal events due to anti-noise shim detaching.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
May hold up but pads get really hot and cause paint to fail.
The way my cars are driven, no issues with paint failing. Factory paint is just bare minimum coating. And my paint so far has prevented what is in my picture attached. Here in the rust belt I pull my pads off every Fall for inspection.


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I've only run the coated rotors on everything i buy, Sometimes they do eventually rust up but for the most part they resist far better than non-coated rotors.

I have some zinc coated rotors on my Mustang that have lasted 2 years and still look new, but that car is no driven in the rain or as many miles as the taurus, so not a fair comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
From the land of rust, I had my last rotors get rusty rings around the edges of the working area and pulsate. As well the fins rust up with crusty stuff. Pic of my new coated rotors, after couple weeks of hard use. Since we have rain every other day, plenty of chances to get wet. Hard use as, city driving, and rural 2 lane hills and curves. Brakes feel very good. Will update after some snow/salt use.


-chart-
OE rotors new and been through one winter. Off the Buick but brakes are brakes. I was starting to get some chatter. Outsides look really nice, and what goes on inside is out of sight and going bad.

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It always seems to be the inside of the rotors that rust gets to first. Don't know if the dust shield causes moisture issues.
 
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