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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
By rules, only car per post. Guess I was doing it wrong with my herd.
So my rescue scratch and dent special, CEL on and having a misfire but OK to drive. 128K miles, first signs of rust on driver's side rear rocker and dog leg. Not bad.
Engine solid, tran good, brakes steady but the pedal is a bit lower than I expect, parking brake good, very good tires, suspension solid but sound of a sway arm link, A/C nice, steers straight, rides nice.
On the negative, CEL for misfire #3 cylinder, and the 6CD changes does not eject. Misfire obvious when up to temperature, worse sitting or low speed, but OK on the road.
$1600 for car and few bucks for transit tag and papers. It would be $1800 if I left it to dealer to fix the CEL but would have to wait for them to get it fixed. Weather very nice, daughter available to go with me to get it that day only, so want it in my drive now.
This one for my grandson to drive to work.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This car has a misfire but PCM not tagging which cylinder. Only first 1000 revs. But it does misfire, but not when cold, just when up to temperature. Worse when is sits hot then starting.
Finally after a few trips out, it tagged #3. Of course back bank. I pulled the plugs on the front and they look great. For sure none of these not with an issue.
Right now got the intake off. Going to switch back plugs/COPs to front. Inspect injector wires.
Plan is to swich back bank COPs and plugs to front bank and fronts to the bank. Hope to find the bad part. Plugs are switched and in.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Engine issue fixed. Cleared the codes and then drove it. No light but found pending misfire on #6. Same coil that was on #3 before the switch. Put the used coil on and drove it around local and on the interstate. Runs fine. Sounds like it needs a sway arm link on the left. Front rotors look great.
Someone has put in a new air filter, new plugs, and two new coils. #2 & #5, middle on both banks. Gonna guess bad diag. on which coil is bad. Really hard to make it set a code, even pending. Hard to get a code when you want one.
Drove it around after dark and one headlight is a bit high. That is the one I expect to replace with the JY light.
Far as I can tell, everything works. 6disk changer, someone had put the magazine in up side down and it was stuck. Got it out and put a disc in and put it in right side up and it played fine.
Drive belt looks new, water pump belt looks new. Tires 7/32 tread. Battery just over a year, oil change just over 1K miles.
On the negative some rust on one door bottom and some rocker rust on the driver's side.
Now to do the drive cycle run to get it ready for inspection.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Today replaced the right HL with a JY part bit nicer condition. The bulb in it Sylvania date 2018 so not that old. Car in the dark ~10 feet from my garage door. Lights on and peak light reading on my light meter 170 both sides. Replaced the JY light and now reading 280. Old light had broken bracket that the attaching bolt goes in. HL was free to bounce. Pulled the bulb from the old light and date was AUG. '04. Likely OE for the car. 128K miles.
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Looks like a pretty good find. I've wanted to find a later Duratec Taurus/Sable that's loaded for a while, but it's almost impossible it seems like. Most of them get scooped up by the shady buy here/pay heres until they get scrapped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks like a pretty good find. I've wanted to find a later Duratec Taurus/Sable that's loaded for a while, but it's almost impossible it seems like. Most of them get scooped up by the shady buy here/pay heres until they get scrapped.
They did some down grading. This SEL has no ABS, no double sunvisor. The speedo is crap and the display is worse. Manual A/C.
So, get wood steering wheel, sun roof, leather and 6 CD changer.
My car has rust issues. Will work for what it bought for.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did my ground test. Might write this up in another post but this just a first step.
Key on Engine off. Blower max, HL on.
Volt drop neg battery post to cleaned spot on the fender =140 mv. Anything over 100 is bad. First pic my beak down of where the loss is. 130 of the 140 is at the crimp. Wire end to end = 8, about 2 in the eyelet to fender. In the past I have soldered these. Not going to do that today so I added a second ground. I expected to take a good sized wire and solder eyelets on for 6" or so and add a second ground. Then saw this strap in my wire bag and needed to enlarge the holes a tick to clear the bolts. Plugged my keep alive battery to the power port inside. Removed the ground clamp at the battery, put anti corrosion compound on the post, and bolt threads, put the added ground under the bolt head and clamped it down. Removed the ground wire as in the pic, sanded the paint off the fender, used anti-corrosion on the bolt and both eyelets. Removed the keep alive battery and put the code checker on it to be sure I did not loose my memory.
Measured the volt drop and now 25 mv.
140 to 25 in a fairly easy step.
Will do the ground strap to the firewall which was 210 ma before fixing the fender. Parallel ground so fixing one effects the loss of the other one. Having issues with the bolt on the firewall being a bit tight and stuck in the eyelets. Soaking with stuff.
My wagon with the ground cleaned, = 80mv while this car 210.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got it reg'd today. Had to make appointment 3 weeks in advance, then fill out all the forms, arrive and stand outside until called. 35F and 15 mph wind, about 20 minutes wait. Only missing one form and it takes a few minutes to print things. $266 later and have sticker, temp inspection sticker, tags. Daughter will pick it up this evening and get it inspected tomorrow. Only one customer inside at a time per lane, and 2 lanes. Woman and daughter at the front of the line, officer at door said, only one inside. Then this lady came back out and said they would not process as she did not have ID. Now that is not smart. Officer called name and that man was not there, so I am next on the list. Got my temp taken and silly questions, then to the lane. Then asked to stand on the "STOP" sign on the floor away from the window to talk to the clerk. Oh well, DMV.
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