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Discussion Starter #41
6 years ago, today, It looks like the end. But 78K miles later, still running strong. Totaled and bought back $406, spend ~$400 fixing it up. Got some character in the top::D

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Changed oil today, just turned 100K more since I bought it. 80K used, 180K today. Daughter driving it about 16K per year now. Added a small amount of brake fluid, and checked the air in the tires. Only significant expense, A/C compressor, and flex plate.
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Discussion Starter #42
HL burned out according to my daughter. Pic of the HL relay harness when being switched from the '01 to the '03 wagon. Brighter lights, much less life by over volts the bulbs. So about 5 years on them. Tomorrow will replace both bulbs. I carry a spare and a nut driver in the door pocket just in case but I best do both bulbs while into it. Old coot needs all the light I can get and I drive with the fogs on all the time after dark.


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HL burned out according to my daughter. Pic of the HL relay harness when being switched from the '01 to the '03 wagon. Brighter lights, much less life by over volts the bulbs. So about 5 years on them. Tomorrow will replace both bulbs. I carry a spare and a nut driver in the door pocket just in case but I best do both bulbs while into it. Old coot needs all the light I can get and I drive with the fogs on all the time after dark.


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What kind of bulbs are you using and overdriving like that? Wouldn't it be easier to use a higher output bulb?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
What kind of bulbs are you using and overdriving like that? Wouldn't it be easier to use a higher output bulb?
I'm using Xtravisions. Higher output bulbs draw more current, thus they operate at lower volts than standard bulbs. Ford uses #20 wire from the dash to the bulbs to drop the volts from charging (13.8-14.5) to 11.8V. Add more current and the volts drop more. And one more thing. One bulb burns out and the other gets higher volts. Not so with the relay. The life of a bulb changes with the -16th power of the applied volts over the rated volts.


That volt drop raises the life from 320 hours to 1175 hours. That gives ~60Kmiles of light on driving. If I use higher output bulbs with the relay, the volt drop from higher amps is miniscule.


My Buick Lucerne HL make the Sable look dim. And on high beams they leave the low beams on so you have both. Fog lights all significant to that. Disadvantage, have to turn them each time you turn the lights on. My Sables leave the fogs on all the time.


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I'm using Xtravisions. Higher output bulbs draw more current, thus they operate at lower volts than standard bulbs. Ford uses #20 wire from the dash to the bulbs to drop the volts from charging (13.8-14.5) to 11.8V. Add more current and the volts drop more. And one more thing. One bulb burns out and the other gets higher volts. Not so with the relay. The life of a bulb changes with the -16th power of the applied volts over the rated volts.


That volt drop raises the life from 320 hours to 1175 hours. That gives ~60Kmiles of light on driving. If I use higher output bulbs with the relay, the volt drop from higher amps is miniscule.


My Buick Lucerne HL make the Sable look dim. And on high beams they leave the low beams on so you have both. Fog lights all significant to that. Disadvantage, have to turn them each time you turn the lights on. My Sables leave the fogs on all the time.


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That's actually pretty smart, I may look into doing something similar. But yes, modern cars have lights that are LEAGUES better than what the Bulls were equipped with. When I drive my Abarth the difference is night and day (lol). Even the low beams put the high beams on the sable to shame.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
6 years ago, today, It looks like the end. But 78K miles later, still running strong. Totaled and bought back $406, spend ~$400 fixing it up. Got some character in the top::D

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Nearly 8 years now, 182K (102K more than when totaled) I drove it ~150 miles today. Daughter has it full time, drives it 7 days a week. She wanted the wagon so I have my sedan back for a couple days. Still drives great, track true, comfortable. After using the Buick for the last couple months the Sable has a bit more road noise at 70mph. Rust is starting to show a bit on the dog legs now. Tranny still shifts like new. Original steering and BJ still tight. Everything works except for the sun load sensor.
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I know how it feels. My 2001 was totaled when a deer ran into the side of the car. $125 dollars in a door, fender and headlight it was back in good shape but not perfect. Hood has three dimples from the antlers. My wife was driving and I can still remember the deer head pressing up against the windshield. Body parts came from a pull a part and were perfect paint match. I paid $400 to get it from the insurance company and they gave me a check for $3100. The insurance collision center actually told them the car was in really good shape for the year and they added more money to the settlement. That was over four years ago and 50k miles.


However it will take it's last trip to the scrap yard this spring because of body rot.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Rust fix update. Saw this car today in a parking lot and got a close up. Patch is still in place after 6 NY winters. Pic is after I created a new flange out of glass cloth and Bondo. Few layers over the hole, sand, prime and paint. Rattle can. Other ruse some but not bad up by the fuel cap. Car has been through 19 NY winters.
The hole in the dog let is through the inner metal so looking right through both panels. I filled the inner gap with aerosol foam and plastered the inside with undercoat.


Filled the remains of the rockers with foam and used decking screws into the foam to hold the rocker covers on. They are still there.


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Discussion Starter #49
My old car, sold. I straightened the rusted out rockers, filled with aerosol foam, trimmed the excess and used decking screws into the foam to keep the coves on. Pic after 5 NY winters, now saw yesterday with 6 winters and the rockers still in place. The foam made much less road noise.
I will likely foam my '03 sedan this summer. It has the rockers largely in place so not so much effort with foam containing.


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Discussion Starter #50
Sedan: ready for inspection, checked code reader. New HL bulbs, new wiper blades, checked all lights. 185K and running sweet. Rust setting in doglegs.


'03 Sable LS Prem. 105K since the tree fall and total.


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Discussion Starter #52
Rust fix update. Saw this car today in a parking lot and got a close up. Patch is still in place after 6 NY winters. Pic is after I created a new flange out of glass cloth and Bondo. Few layers over the hole, sand, prime and paint. Rattle can. Other ruse some but not bad up by the fuel cap. Car has been through 19 NY winters.
The hole in the dog let is through the inner metal so looking right through both panels. I filled the inner gap with aerosol foam and plastered the inside with undercoat.


Filled the remains of the rockers with foam and used decking screws into the foam to hold the rocker covers on. They are still there.


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My repair after 6 NY winters, still holding. I sold the car but, saw it again today and the rockers are still on and the Bondo/fiberglass cover and foam fill of dog leg and the rockers still working. Some blisters on the patch area but gained another 6 winters.
Pic of the before repairs back on this original post.
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Discussion Starter #53
Hope to pickup today if my daughter can get off work. I have the insurance card, and left a deposit and signed agreement.
106K one owner, no smoker, regular maint, low rust area, super clean, did not see even a body ding. Traction control, side impact AB, no accidents. So average miles per year just over 6K based on actual buy and trade dates.


So will have 3 bulls, all '03's. May keep the rusty Sable sedan this summer for the grandson when home from college and working.
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Nice find!

Tec and leather!! :)
 

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Looks great. These really are great cars especially considering the price you can get them at. I have owned the same one for almost 12 years and it's still a great car. Rust is unheard of here in the desert southwest so it will be interesting to see how long it will go. My wife has one as well which had some poor quality repairs done to it by the previous owner but aside from that it's also been a great car. Sometimes I wonder why people happily make payments on a $25k+ new car that ends up spending more time in the shop than my 19 year old sable.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Hope to pickup today if my daughter can get off work. I have the insurance card, and left a deposit and signed agreement.
106K one owner, no smoker, regular maint, low rust area, super clean, did not see even a body ding. Traction control, side impact AB, no accidents. So average miles per year just over 6K based on actual buy and trade dates.


So will have 3 bulls, all '03's. May keep the rusty Sable sedan this summer for the grandson when home from college and working.
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Daughter came by and we went down and picked it up today. I drove it the first 120 miles and she drove it the last 60 home. No issues. I was a bit concerned since gas gage was just over quarter and after 90 miles barely moved so I needed to get familiar with this one. So we pulled off and gassed up both cars. This one 11.9G so no concerns about that range. Only concerns: now is has a slight exhaust shield vibration just above dead idle speed. Then just at the end of the drive slight brake squeal at low breaking at low speed. Rotors are new. Brake feel is excellent. May replace the pads with quality ceramics. Parking brake solid. Tires Firestone something 7-8/32 tread, no noise.


Oil change sticker indicates Kendall and ~1200 miles to the next change.


And the big one. No sign of oil leak or smell of oil.


Negative and can be fixed, headlights are dull.


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Discussion Starter #57
Some quick checkout of my Taurus. Will be 16 years old next month. Drove it 300 miles in 5 days since buying it, and it runs quite well. Looks like original PCV hose so need to order that but clean TB and accordion tells me the PCV still works OK for now. PS fluid looks very clean. In the pic of the tran dip stick was not seated so I spun the vent cap to be sure it was free and checked the fluid color. Water pump belt new, and main belt is new. A/C looks like it was replaced at least the clutch is not the OE with rubber springs.
Surprised at the appearance of the exhaust pipe. I plan to replace the wheel cylinders, PCV and hose. Need to check coolant cap for OE. Had 2 of 4 fail and not wanting to have that again. Need to pull a plug and see if OE and if so order new ones.


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Daughter came by and we went down and picked it up today. I drove it the first 120 miles and she drove it the last 60 home. No issues. I was a bit concerned since gas gage was just over quarter and after 90 miles barely moved so I needed to get familiar with this one. So we pulled off and gassed up both cars. This one 11.9G so no concerns about that range. Only concerns: now is has a slight exhaust shield vibration just above dead idle speed. Then just at the end of the drive slight brake squeal at low breaking at low speed. Rotors are new. Brake feel is excellent. May replace the pads with quality ceramics. Parking brake solid. Tires Firestone something 7-8/32 tread, no noise.


Oil change sticker indicates Kendall and ~1200 miles to the next change.


And the big one. No sign of oil leak or smell of oil.


Negative and can be fixed, headlights are dull.


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If it's anything like mine the gas gauge being odd is a sign the fuel pump has been replaced. On my car I'm pretty sure they used the part # and sender for the 18 gallon tank that I don't have. Maybe the opposite for you, since mine goes down way too quick, lol.

Also the exhaust shield rattle is probably the outlet pipe shield for the rear catalytic converter, my car had that too. The welds break off and it just flaps around on the pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Got my keypad # today. Used flashlight to light behind the paper card and read it as mirror image and got it. Fortunate it had a 7 so I know which side is up so I can tell the 9 from the 6. I had to do some searching as I did not remember where the paper exactly was located.


Now to set it to my universal (to me) code. I started using the default code from my first Lincoln and keep that one in my memory for all the other cars.


And front tires 46# each. I let them down to 36. My knees hurt so I will get the rears tomorrow.
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