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Discussion Starter #21
^+1. That drive-by-wire throttle is a different animal, lol. I have it on my '12/'13 Impalas. I've been told to never work the butterfly by hand to clean as it can be damaged. Supposed to leave it hooked up and open/close with the accelerator. The Impalas have the 3.6 VVT DOHC LFX engine with 6-speed automatic. I like the 305hp. They're not as pretty as your Buick and probably don't have near as comfy ride.
They can get a lot of HP out of OHC. As to throttle by wire, I have not looked at it, have not looked at the air filter but was supposed to have been recently changed. So no IAC or cruise cable/box. I cannot get comfy with the NON replace PCV though. Still has a tranny dip stick and belt driven water pump. I hear bad things about water pumps inside the engine, even those off a timing belt.

As to comfort, it is very good, very quiet. Old coots kind of car.

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Love hate relationship with DBW/TBW... that ever so slight lag sucks the fun out of the car a bit. And I miss our last throttle cable actuated car -- a 2002 Escape -- when you set the cruise, the pedal moved accordingly. I loved those little things.

GM's newer engine designs are incredibly quiet. The new Malibu vehicles I've seen in the wild--they pretty much whisper at idle. I have no idea how they got the engine THAT quiet but I'm extremely impressed.

Be careful around cleaning the throttle body as that butterfly can quite easily remove fingers. At least that's what I keep reading...
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Love hate relationship with DBW/TBW... that ever so slight lag sucks the fun out of the car a bit. And I miss our last throttle cable actuated car -- a 2002 Escape -- when you set the cruise, the pedal moved accordingly. I loved those little things.

GM's newer engine designs are incredibly quiet. The new Malibu vehicles I've seen in the wild--they pretty much whisper at idle. I have no idea how they got the engine THAT quiet but I'm extremely impressed.

Be careful around cleaning the throttle body as that butterfly can quite easily remove fingers. At least that's what I keep reading...
I think the top cover for the engine, with foam under is part of lowering some engine noise. I may try driving with it removed sometime to see.

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GM's newer engine designs are incredibly quiet. The new Malibu vehicles I've seen in the wild--they pretty much whisper at idle. I have no idea how they got the engine THAT quiet but I'm extremely impressed.
My parents have a 2015 Malibu with the 2.5 and honestly is a decent car. It's incredibly quiet at idle, and looks pretty decent. Rides nice too. I was surprised for a low end Chevy model.
 

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^ Chart, fwiw, as soon as I got my Impalas, I removed the top covers to plumb in oil catch cans between the pcv barb and its vacuum port on the uim and never replaced the covers. They're in the cellar with a couple of Taurus bottom air dams, lol. I never noticed any sound increase, but I'm old and hard of hearing, lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Love hate relationship with DBW/TBW... that ever so slight lag sucks the fun out of the car a bit. And I miss our last throttle cable actuated car -- a 2002 Escape -- when you set the cruise, the pedal moved accordingly. I loved those little things.

GM's newer engine designs are incredibly quiet. The new Malibu vehicles I've seen in the wild--they pretty much whisper at idle. I have no idea how they got the engine THAT quiet but I'm extremely impressed.

Be careful around cleaning the throttle body as that butterfly can quite easily remove fingers. At least that's what I keep reading...
As to throttle lag:

The Lincoln used fuel shutoff for engine braking. I did not like it. If you are under power, and let off, bit less than a second it would begin heavy engine braking. If I let off normal for a ramp, it would slow down such as I would have to pedal it to get up to the stop. However if you went into engine braking and added some pedal for a moment it would not do braking gain. So, if I let off and added pedal before exiting, it would not do the braking and catch me by surprise. Bulls use ignition retard and lean fuel mix to get some engine braking but it is consistent and feels very normal.
The Buick is quite different. More like the G-1 Bulls and feels like free wheeling when I let off and it coasts quite a bit with the rpm way down. Only thing have to get used to: while coasting at low rpm and add throttle it feels like a delay while the rpm picks back up if the adding throttle is light. Noted at 40, I let off and rpm drops to ~800, then when adding some normal throttle it picks back up to 2K, begins to pull and then up shifts. This gives me the feeling of lag but only from coasting back to light throttle.

And one more thought: minimum engine braking means more work for the brakes. Lucerne uses double piston caliper on the front so looks like they planned for it. Brakes feel very strong to me.

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With the Explorer (and G6 bull for that matter), coast down strategy is to engage DFSO with acc pedal position = idle pos and vehicle speed > 40 MPH. Injectors off, open loop.
Definitely never felt any engine braking. Now I only get automatic engine braking on cruise control--and that gets surprisingly aggressive.

This wasn't always the case. Back when I had the Five Hundred, the CVT would *actively* engine brake somewhat when the incline sensor sensed I was going downhill. That was nice--and noticeable.

Both were throttle-by-wire. The Five Hundred was one of the first Ford attempts at the technology. Hilariously, the CVT models had a small button that would be engaged with a 'click' at the end of accelerator pedal travel. Kind of like a kickdown button. It's when the "VTEC kicked in, yo."
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Most to do with what you might expect from a dealer service. The cabin air filter was new but not put in place and the attachment button to hold the cradle in place was not buttoned. The engine air filter was fine but I vacuumed the acorns out of the dirty side of the inlet. Some whole, some shells. Filters easy. Cabin held in with plastic snaps, easy to do. Engine filter did not need the plenum off as in the pic but I did that to look into the throttle and accordion. All clean and dry. Engine air filter needed #20 Torx driver for the two screws.

I pulled each wheel, caliper, yoke and rotor and found. None of the caliper bolts were more than barely snug. 3 of the yoke to spindle bolts were more than snug, no thread locker. (95# spec) so they should be like loosening lug nuts. One was very tight and had red thread locker and it was tight all the way off. One guide pin was tight and dry as noted earlier. I sanded the flanges with my triangular vibrating sander and wiped them off with rust preventer. I used blue lock tight on all and tightened them well.

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Discussion Starter #29
See pic, 3.9L and note the coolant hose pointed to by the arrow. It goes to the oil filter attachment and another leaves the attachment but I cannot see where it goes. Anybody have an idea what that is for?

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See pic, 3.9L and note the coolant hose pointed to by the arrow. It goes to the oil filter attachment and another leaves the attachment but I cannot see where it goes. Anybody have an idea what that is for?

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Looks like an engine oil cooler. Hose should feed back into the cooling system somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Looks like an engine oil cooler. Hose should feed back into the cooling system somewhere.
Guess it would be a heater/cooler. I am sure the coolant warms up faster than the oil, but will still be hotter than the oil in hot weather. It is from the heater return line but in hot weather, it will be ~engine temperature.

Must be important to the GM engineers.
Maybe they should have put in a coolant drain. Seems they have you remove the lower rad hose.
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Some of these engines have unique coolant filling requirements. My Nissan Xterra 4.0L uses a vacuum to pull fluid into the system and then out the top to make sure it is full.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
^ Chart, is there a petcock on the pass. side of the radiator?
Not sure, only place online shows removal of the air dam and then pull the hose which is out in plain sight. Nothing gonna happen until the weather warms up. As I remember 16 push pins to get the air dam off. :D So I got 120 new ones so I do not have to reuse the old ones. Refill looks easy as the pressure cap is high up above all the other cooling system stuff.

Lin Cont has valve but not able to reach it. Use 5/16" long allen wrench and use cut off liter bottle as a chute. Then have to cap the tank, remove the fill cap which requires a channel lock pliers and fill to the top. Cap and then add to the tank. Had to drain to do the belt or Alt. The Buick does not use a pressure tank. If the Buick garage did their homework, they would have changed the coolant at 5 years. Their carfax sheet only shows "required service" not specific. I may pull the cap today as it is overnight cold, take a sample of coolant and see what it looks like. It is inside and not going out today. Took the Sable to the store for milk and bread.

" WHAT...Heavy snow expected. Widely varying total snow accumulations
ranging from 7 to 12 inches west of interstate 81, with 11 to 17
inches along and east of interstate 81."

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Discussion Starter #35
"required service" not specific. I may pull the cap today as it is overnight cold, take a sample of coolant and see what it looks like. It is inside and not going out today.

Think I will pass on coolant exchange. Iron block/aluminum head engine.
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Discussion Starter #36
Old coot set in my ways but, different things for different makers. Lucerne has a low risk but serious issue. The rear seat bottom latch can push the fuel pump relay to the side and unseat the spades from the socket. Still runs but high resistance over heats and melts the plastic in the socket and relay. Fix by GM is to cut 5mm off the ends of the U channel that is part of the spring latch. Thin metal, abrasive wheel and couple seconds each side. I pulled the relay and the spades are perfect. Then I am confused, which way does it go. Seems the diagram on the side, and spade numbers on the relay show the coil is diagonal spades. So it does not matter which way it goes. All Ford relays I have seen use spades turned 90 degrees to others and they only go in one way. Other rectangle relays I have seen have the coil connections on one end, contacts the opposite end.
Anyway some fuses and relays are under the rear seat and beside the battery. Fuel pump relay and ride height pump are back there along with fuses.
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Discussion Starter #37
First time out of the local in over 6 months since the Lucerne buy. Trip to medical and back. Two pit stops, one breakfast and home before lunch. About 1.5 hours at the medical. MPG last leg home. Total first 2 legs, trip end to end, 29 mpg. Few single lane construction, slow traffic for a bit.
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Discussion Starter #38
Daughter driving the Buick since almost a month ago. Checked the oil yesterday and down about 2/3rd of the way of the hatch. 3200 miles. Rear turn signal bulb out and the market bulb. Standard bulbs and new ones in. Then the other side turn signal bulb is bad. Since they come in pairs, will fix that today. 63K seems a bit early for that. We need the wagon for hauling while we are at the motel home.


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That's about a quart every 5k miles. Not excessive by any means, but seems a bit high for a lower mileage car. But, every car is different. My V70 is down about 1/8 of a qt after 5k miles. My daughter's Mazda 6 is down a full qt at 6k miles. Both cars have about 150k miles on them. My Sable was about a qt every 4k miles at 165k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
That's about a quart every 5k miles. Not excessive by any means, but seems a bit high for a lower mileage car. But, every car is different. My V70 is down about 1/8 of a qt after 5k miles. My daughter's Mazda 6 is down a full qt at 6k miles. Both cars have about 150k miles on them. My Sable was about a qt every 4k miles at 165k miles.

"My Sable was about a qt every 4k miles"
Mine leaks that much.
Years ago, had Fairlane v-8 no oil use at all. It wore the compression rings out by 100K. Likely the reason the "term oil control" ring is used. On the other side, my '72 429 used about a Q per 800 miles, but it ran in the Mercury to ~150k, then when car was scrapped the engine went into a truck and later a wrecker. No harm at that level. On my Buick is very much an estimate due to no where to put it on a level place like my garage used to be.
And then: daughter told me there was another message after "low fuel".
"very low fuel". Do not want to know what comes next.




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