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Re: My other thread ( http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6383 ) in which I was given some great advice....

How can I go about changing the water pump in my '97 Sable w/Duratec?

It seems like it might be an easy(ish) job at first glance, but on closer inspection it reveals that the nuts/bolts which hold the water pump seem incredibly hard to get to, suggesting that the engine might need to be removed in order to do this. :huh:

I can get a new water pump for $70.

If I can change it myself, I would like to, for obvious financial reasons! :D

I would greatly appreciate any help you guys can give me!

Thanks!
Gordon.
 

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I haven't really looked at how hard it would be to change it on my 'Tec. I was thinking if it ever went bad I would replace it with one of those electric pumps that are sold for the Contours. I haven't looked to see how this would work on the Gen 3, but the Gen 4 would most likely be just like the Contour since the water pump is driven off of the back of one of the cams.
 

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The water pump is driven by the belt in the Duratec (or that's what it looks like).
 

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Right, on the Gen 3 Duratec's it is driven off of the accessory belt on the front of the engine. On the Gen 4/Contiques there is a pulley on the back of the left intake cam (I think it's the intake, been a while) that has a really small belt going to the water pump. Replacing the Gen 4 pump with an electric is almost a no brainer. Replacing the Gen 3 may be a little more difficult because of where it's at. You would have to find a way to get the hoses to a safe place where the electric pump is mounted, without compromising the flow. I also don't know what kind of stress the belt would put elsewhere after removing the pulley.

Anyway, replacing any of the accessories on the Duratec is a pain in the arse. I'm sure it can be done without pulling the motor, but it's probably not easy.

Go here and look at their catalog and you will see the electric pump if you're interested. It's on page 30. It's rather expensive ($225 for the pump and $139 for the controller) but I think it would be a fun project. Might gain some ponies too. Probably not alot of HP per $ but cool anyway.
 

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I changed the water pump on my 96 Duratec. It is a pain. You need to remove the passenger wheel and the plastic liner behind it. You can reach some of the bolts from the top and some from the wheel well. There is a triangular bracket between the AC compressor and water pump. That must come off too. On the top I unclipped all the wire looms that were in the way and unscrewed a clamp that holds the AC lines to the car frame. That gave me enough clearance to get the pump out, with a bunch of twists and turns.

The pump is two pieces. The front part has the pulley and impeller. The back is just a plate. The new pump won't come with the plate, you must use the one from the old pump. There are a bunch of metric hex head screws holding it together. I don't remember the size, I'll have to check. The screw may be in tight, careful not to strip the bolt head.

You'll also need the tool to release the tensioner on the serpentine belt. I bought mine at AutoZone. It's basically a very low profile 15mm socket on the end of a long handle.
 

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Thanks SableOHC!

That's just the information I was looking for!

You're the man! :notworthy:

I'll print out your post and take it home with me...

I'm so relieved that I don't have to take out the motor!!!!!

Do you remember how much the tool was from Autozone?

Thanks so much!
Gordon.
 

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Thinking about it again, it may have been at Advance Auto. It's this tool: Serpentine Belt Tool currently selling for $18. I'll try to remember to look up the hex wrench size tonight. PM me if you don't see it here by tomorrow :D A further note, the pump will come with a new gasket to go between the pump halves. The Haynes manual says to use RTV (silicone) to seal the halves together, but I used gasket shellac so there'd be less goo seeping into the inside.
 

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If you are strong enough you can skip getting the tensioner tool all together. I was and am able to easily pull the tensioner enough to remove and install a belt. Just a though incase you care to try it before buying the tool but i'm sure the tool would be easier then my way.
 

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My tensioner has a 3/8" square in it. I used a 3/8" breaker bar and it worked fine. The other 99' I had didn't have this square in the tensioner.
 

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Originally posted by SableOHC@Jun 14 2004, 12:40 PM


You'll also need the tool to release the tensioner on the serpentine belt. I bought mine at AutoZone. It's basically a very low profile 15mm socket on the end of a long handle.
AutoZone also has a loan a tool deal, you only have to pay a refundable deposit on the tool.
 

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I need to remove the tension on the belt only. In the Duratec engine I have, the serpentine belt runs under the water pump pulley, so it appears that removing it would not be necessary.
 

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On the 02'+ Tec's the pump moved to the drivers side. It looks much easier than on the ole 00' Tec I had. :banana:
 

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Originally posted by Gor@Jun 14 2004, 02:35 PM
I need to remove the tension on the belt only. In the Duratec engine I have, the serpentine belt runs under the water pump pulley, so it appears that removing it would not be necessary.
I see what you're saying, but the belt will be in the way of getting at the bolts and hoses and you would need to hold the tensioner the entire time you are installing the new pump.
 

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OK I think I have this all ready for repair....

I have a water pump ordered - $62.99. Apparently that's a new OEM one.

I'm also going to change the serpentine belt as with 104k miles, it probably needs it. I can rent the serpentine belt tool.
While I'm at it, the spark plugs need changed also - I know there's a good article with pictures on this site about changing Duratec plugs.

I'm trying to cover as many bases as I can while having the car torn apart.

I did think about the timing chain, but apparently that's not needed @ 100,000 miles, or it shouldn't be needed yet.

I want to thank you guys for really helping me out.

You're Ace!

Thanks!
Gordon.
 

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I checked and you need a 5mm hex wrench to remove the bolts to get the water pump apart. You could try the L-shaped allen wrench style, but I bought a 5mm hex socket to fit on my socket wrench to get a better pull.

Here's the AC fitting I moved out of the way:
 

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Originally posted by Gor@Jun 14 2004, 06:27 PM
OK I think I have this all ready for repair....

I have a water pump ordered - $62.99. Apparently that's a new OEM one.

I'm also going to change the serpentine belt as with 104k miles, it probably needs it. I can rent the serpentine belt tool.
While I'm at it, the spark plugs need changed also - I know there's a good article with pictures on this site about changing Duratec plugs.

I'm trying to cover as many bases as I can while having the car torn apart.

I did think about the timing chain, but apparently that's not needed @ 100,000 miles, or it shouldn't be needed yet.

I want to thank you guys for really helping me out.

You're Ace!

Thanks!
Gordon.
knowing that the engine has ben overheated a couple of times and the oil psi light had come on. I would only do the water pump for now see if that fixes the overheating. Then pressure test the cooling system, check oil pressure with gauge and then drive it a couple weeks. If everythings seems ok after that then I would do the other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks SableOHC!
The pics will come in real handy!

How exactly do you move that AC fitting out of the way?
I'll have a look tomorrow, as it's dark outside now! :)

green: I do understand your caution - I am assuming that the oil light was flickering slightly at idle because the engine had overheated.
Do you think that I might run into other problems because of this?
I'd really hate to think that this might happen :(
 

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Mmmmmm gotta love hte Vulcan 3.0, I did a waterpump in the 89 sable in an hour that included removing, cleaning and installing the pump and purging th system of air
 
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