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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'ive been wrestling with this car for 4 days. the bearing in the original pump exploded which made removal very easy as the shaft moved 2 inches in every direction, but now im trying to put the new one in and finding it to be quite a b***.

The haynes manual says i have to remove the nuts on the passenger side motor mounts. I can only find one and when the nuts off it jacking up on the engine still just jacks up the car. Can anyone either tell me or show me what i need to remove to raise the engine? and can anyone give me any other advice on how to do this without breaking anything else? ( like accidentally shoving a piece of bed frame through your oil filter:mellow:) .
 

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You should be able to replace the water pump without lifting the engine, (I've done it twice.)

The picture attached is for the 3.0L engine, but the mounts are in essentially the same locations. You should be able to access both lower mount bolts (on numbers 1 and 2, don't touch number 3) from under the car while on jackstands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks ill try shimmying farther back under there probably just missed #2 in my quick look. as for doing it without raising the engine i could probably get it on if i could get studs out but that aint happening and there's just too little clearance between fender well and engine
 

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I did it about 8 years ago so my memory is a bit fuzzy. I do know I raised the engine about an inch or two. I thought I loosened the two front mounts? But I may be wrong. It was needed to remove several of the long studs going through the pump housing. They were like 6 to 8 inches long. I removed the two A/C lines to create more room and I sawed off about 1/2" of a stud that extended beyond the bonded nut. The end was essentially useless and gave me enough room to get it out.
I had a 93 which may have some slight differences from your 94.
If you still have issues I can dig out my factory manual and scan/email to you the Ford official info. for a 93.
good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well thanks got it up made it tons easier to slap that pump on just have to find the bolt placement chart from the chilton manual and ill be set.
 

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Cake monster
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There is no specific order listed in the service manual. Just says to tighten/torque all fasteners to 15-22 LB-FT.
I didn't take pictures of the bolts that went into the water pump housing on my Vulcan, it made it confusing since there was 3 types and two sizes. I went online and got a bolt diagram to put them back in.



^^ that's for a Windstar, I can get a better diagram for the right year if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i got it. pumps in, belts on, but now i broke the clamp on the lower rad hose at the radiator so gotta deal with that.
 

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I didn't take pictures of the bolts that went into the water pump housing on my Vulcan, it made it confusing since there was 3 types and two sizes. I went online and got a bolt diagram to put them back in.



^^ that's for a Windstar, I can get a better diagram for the right year if needed.
Yes, I do have that type of diagram, but it is numbering and listing what each bolt is. Notice that there are no torque specifications next to each bolt, nor are there any instructions on which order to install them in.

Quite the difference from say, head bolts or the lower intake manifold bolts, which have a very specific torque-down procedure and order.
 

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Dang, I missed all the action on this one, glad to hear you finally got the wp installed.

I'll add some comments from my OEM 94 3.8L wp intallation of a coupe of years ago, for the next person needing to change his 3.8L wp.

As T_swenson mentioned above, no need to raise the 3.8L engine to change the water pump.

The studs that have nuts on them go into the water jacket & aren't removed.
Cutting the protruding 1/4" or so, unused thread lead in nubs off the ends of the studs, with a Dremel outfitted with a diamond cutting wheel, will give just enough clearance needed, to make removal & installation of the pump possible, without having to raise the engine.

On removal & installation of the wp, you'll also have to unbolt the belt pully from the pump & let it float around.

If you have removal or installation clearance problems with the wp bolt at the 2 oclock position, just prop up/raise the lines running atop/along the frame rail & that'll provide just enough room for the bolt head, to get it removed, or installed.

The pully can't be attached to the new pump until it's installed, so it has to remain loose & floating on the pump hub.

I used antisieze compound on my wp bolt threads that don't go into the water jacket, to make removal easier next time.

The jackleg that installed my pump, cross threaded the 12 oclock bolt & it broke before I got all of it out.
They are hardened steel & it took me two days with my Dremel outfitted with a flex shaft & diamond bits to carefully drill out & remove the remainder of the bolt & not further damage the front covers casting boss threads.
Lucky for me ths wasn't a blind hole & it was on top, where it was easier to get at.

Slowly chasing the castings threads with the new bolt, straightened up the remaining threads enough to allow the bolt to properly torque up!!!!

The danged designer that thought this installation up, should have to work at a Dealership for at least a year, changing 3.8L wp's, before they're allowed to design anything else!!!!
 

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Cake monster
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Yes, I do have that type of diagram, but it is numbering and listing what each bolt is. Notice that there are no torque specifications next to each bolt, nor are there any instructions on which order to install them in.

Quite the difference from say, head bolts or the lower intake manifold bolts, which have a very specific torque-down procedure and order.
I knew that wasn't torque pattern specs, he mentioned "bolt placement chart" and I figured he meant which bolts went where (few different types), not the torque pattern. I thought I would be helpful by posting what I had thought he asked for.
 

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pawpaw, do you frequent the vha forum or ingunowners.com?

Those are the only places that I can find the quote in your signature attributed to Ben Franklin.

The only similar quote that I could find was attributed to Michelangelo.
 

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Nope, have never visited those forums.

The Ben Franklin quote was given to me by a coworker about 30 years ago, because he thought I was so danged persnickety about my optics lab work!!!! I thought it said a lot in a few words, so i sorta adopted it!!!! lol

The other one I came upon a few years earlier, from a work place poster sample I got from NED.
I liked it too, put it up in the lab & sorta adopted it also, as it emplores us to be serious about putting our name on any work we do.

The work we did put others lives at risk, so we needed to Always be mindful of that & do the very best we knew how.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The cutting the studs down is a good tip, I was racing freezing rain and jacking the engine was the quickest way to do it also made it extremely easy to put the blind bolts in as I didn't have to leave the pulley on. As for the bolt placement diagram I had remembered when first reading how to change the pump they had showed a placement diagram and said it would be advisable to remember which hole the bolts came from. When I got the car the water pump was held in by one nut and all the bolts taken off in the process of getting it that way put in a few plastic bags so I felt the diagram would be useful lol.

As for the action being over far from it I still have a cracked radiator and the radiator fan assembly in my back seat with no clue how to get it in ( don't you love when people try to help you out and end up making it harder) and that's just the cooling system issues. I still have only 1.5 working windows and a seat that randomly catches fire. guess that's the price you have to pay for a free car lol.
 

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I've had problems with both of my OEM radiators.
The factory one developeed a leak in the aluminum at a lower drivers side corner bend & was just out of warrany & replaced by the Dealer with another Ford radiator in early 98, who's hot plastic tank cracked about 4" below the upper radiator hose connection. It was because of a faulty knit line in the plastic tank. Bad molding process, lack of temp control.

Anyway I opted for a "ReadyRad" replacement from Advance Auto, nice piece of work.

When you replace the radiator, don't over tighten the metal tranny line adapters that go into the plastic tanks. I didn't use thread sealant on the plastic to metal threads & if you do, don't use a metal thread sealant product, as it could cause the plastic to stress crack.

Be sure to add some liquid pipe tread sealant to the tranny line Metal to Metal fitting threads, that goes into/onto the radiator tank metal adapter. I used Permatex/Loctite PST 565. I didn't use PTFE ribbon dope, as it could clog up the valve body if any got into the lines. The liquid stuff would just go into suspension if any got into the lines, so said the Loctite rep.

If you don't use thread sealant on those metal to metal fittings, you'll likely weep tranny fluid past the threads.
The radiator installation directions didn't call for thread sealant & aganst my better judgment I didn't use any & both the top & bottom tranny line fittings would weep tranny fluid after it warmed up, so I had to loosen the radiator & hoses & lower line connections a second time, to be able to get to the lower tranny line fitting & get it degreased, serviced & tightened up & the rubber hose reconnected to the cooler, a real PIA!!!!

So leave the radiator loose when installing the tranny lines & do the lower tranny line connection first, so you can move the radiator around some, to be able to get to the line fittings & to be able to slip the lower tranny line rubber hose onto the tranny cooler tubing.

Then install the lower radiator hose & top tranny line fitting, then jiggle the radiator in place & secure it's fastners last.

Then install the cooling fan assy.

Install the upper radiator hose last

It's a fun job & will likely require you to exhaust all your most powerful words of persuasion!!!! lol

Installing the fan assy isn't that bad, but that lower radiator tranny line fitting & lower radiator hose connection are a bit of a pain.

Just take your time & try to think each move through before doing it & it'll go a little easier.
I too had to do mine outside in November & it wasn't fun, so I feel for ya, if your trying to do this outside at this time of year.

During the radiator replacemnt, I took the opportunity to replace all of the cooling system & engine/heater rubber hoses, with OEM parts.

The formed rubber water pump outlet hose, that goes around the rear valve cover to the heater intake firewall connection, had to be ordered from Ford by the Dealer.
Motorcraft, or anyone else didn't make or offer that molded hose .

A bunch more thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well at the moment im just using the patch they set up as its been working for the last two years. the rad is cracked at the very top on the drivers side and someone coated it with some sort of epoxy that seems to be holding and will hopefully remain holding till i get enough money into the save the Taurus fund. My biggest issue with everything right now is how does the fan assembly hold on to the rad I found the one bolt at the top but that's it what holds it on the bottom and the sides? looks like on the drivers side some kind of bolt slides into a slot in the radiator.
 

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Yup there is a "T" bolt on the drivers sde that slips into that radiator slot & a coupe of clips at the bottom of the radiator for the fan shroud & you've found the top fastner.

When you pull the radiator, there are a couple of tranny line clips that need to be unfastened before pulling the radiator up & out.
 
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