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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 97 Duratec and I need to change the rear spark plugs. Instead of removing the whole UIM, is it possible to just unbolt it and slide it forward about six to ten inches so I can get to the rear bank that way? I really don't want to mess with disconnecting all the vacuum lines and stuff.

Also, is the gasket that's under the UIM reuseable? I was told that it wasn't, and I was told that it was.

Any advice would be great. Thanks.
 
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the Gasket is reusable. Sure, any way you can move it with out damaging any components of the UIM would be fine.

Good Luck


Sal
 

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Discussion Starter #3
good damn deal. tell ya what sal, why not just come out here to Ohio and do it for me? I'll buy ya lunch. :)

I really don't want to disconnect all that stuff...so I thought if i got the back end of the UIM out of the way and take the cowl off I might be able to get to it better. figure while i'm back there i'll change the plug wires and the pcv valve. i'm sure they both need replaced.

thanks.
 

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I just changed the plugs via this method on my Taurus this evening. I found a 2.5" thick piece of wood to support the intake manifold after I removed the 6 bolts holding it on. The process took me about 1.5 hours to complete.

Some issues that I encountered:

- My spark plug socket was missing most of the rubber insert, so getting the plugs pulled out of their respective holes was a pain. Time for a new socket.

- After getting everything back together, I started it up - heard a massive "whistling" sound. Turns out one of the hoses connecting to the intake worked its way loose during the process.

Also, I did pick up Autolite Double Platinum plugs for vehicle. They were nearly $4.00 a piece, but for as much of a pain that it is to switch the plugs, hopefully, they'll last a bit longer.

To top it off, I replaced the serpentine belt, too. Thank goodenss the tensioner could be pushed with lots of brute force as I didn't have an appropriate breaker bar to fit into the tight slot to relieve some of the tension.

My car has 56K on it now - '99 Taurus. Between the plugs and belt, I spent over $60 on parts and consumed about 3 hours of my Sunday. I used to love working on vehicles. Being that things keep getting tighter and tighter under the hood nowadays, I might have to relinquish the future work to my favorite mechanic - and pay them about $200 to change the belt and plugs in the future. :)
 

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I really don't want to disconnect all that stuff...so I thought if i got the back end of the UIM out of the way and take the cowl off I might be able to get to it better. figure while i'm back there i'll change the plug wires and the pcv valve. i'm sure they both need replaced.
As I mentioned above, I had to raise the intake manifold with a piece of wood to keep it out of the way to change the rear plugs. Pushing it aside to do the work is not an option unless you disconnect all of the pieces associated with the throttle. After looking at what I would have had to disconnect, I felt that simply raising it was the easiest process.

Also, since the manifold gasket is reusable, does anyone know how many times it could be reused? My guess is that next time the plugs need to be changed, I might just order a gasket and replace it at that time, too. Unless, I have the local mechanic do the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was thinking of pulling it forward, not pushing it aside. i may use something to hold it up, though. i didn't think of that.

about this reuseable gasket. would it make a difference that my car has 102k on it? I don't believe the plugs have ever been changed, given the condition of the front 3.

will the high mileage make the gasket not reuseable? i'm thinking of buying the gasket and having it handy just incase. can always return it if i dont need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
probably cheaper to go to autozone. its 26 bucks there. when you figure in shipping, it'll be about that from rockauto. and i won't have to wait for it.

i was just curious if the gasket would be too old. i think i'll just buy one incase, but i could use a heads up on what to expect.

thanks.
 

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Going to a lot of uneeded work. On my 96 Duratec I followed the procedures in the Haynes/Chiltons which does not require removal of UIM, took about 2 hours to get all 6 changed
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well i looked at my engine, and i dont see how it can be done. even if you remove the cowl on both sides of the car, you're still gonna need about a dozen extensions and elbows to get to the plug...not to mention you'll be threading and unthreading them blindly.

any ideas if the gasket is too old to be reuseable?
 

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Originally posted by LoadedLX@Aug 9 2004, 12:21 PM
well i looked at my engine, and i dont see how it can be done. even if you remove the cowl on both sides of the car, you're still gonna need about a dozen extensions and elbows to get to the plug...not to mention you'll be threading and unthreading them blindly.

any ideas if the gasket is too old to be reuseable?
chances are, yes, the gasket is too old to reuse. Once the seals have had a chance to expand, you will never get it back together without an air leak.

Buy new gaskets if you intend to remove the intake. I purchased mine from AutoZone, they were about $55 for the set. If you are only replacing plugs, then you only need the upper, however, I would suggest you buy the set and remove the lower intake and clean it while you have it all apart. You'll see why I recommend it as soon as you remove the upper intake. The secondary intake ports will be full of nasty gunk if they have not been cleaned before.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
that's what i needed to know. i'm gonna try one more time to do it without removing the upper intake, but i don't wanna do it that way. of course, if it's gonna be an extra 25 bucks, i may just have to live with it and donate some of the skin off my knuckles to the cause.

i'll tell ya, being indecisive and owning a duratec motor do not go hand in hand.

thanks for the input.
 

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I'm with maceslin on this. Several people said you had to remove the intake on the GenIV Duratec. I did it with no problems and several other people here did too.

Working blind is part of working on a car. I really believe you guys are creating more work for yourselves and also adding potential leaks and broken bolts to the equation. Just my two cents.

Mike
B)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well i have a gen III, not a gen IV, but i'm sure the concept is the same. i'm gonna try to do it without removing the intake because i dont wanna break for 26 bucks for a new gasket.

it will be tight, and it'll be tough...but hey, i knew that when i bought the car. is there anywhere on the tcca forums where i can find what plug wire goes into what spot on the coil pack? i'll have to disconnect them all to remove the pack itself, and would like to know how it all goes back together.

thanks.
 

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I hope this is of some help....
Spark Plugs


Removal

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). Refer to «Section 14-01».

2. Remove the RH side of the cowl vent screen, and cowl top extension (021A36). Refer to «Section 01-02».

3. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) from the ignition coil (12029). Remove the four ignition coil hold-down screws, and remove the ignition coil to access the spark plugs on cylinders 1, 2 and 3.

4. Disconnect the electric IMRC actuator electrical connector. Remove the mounting screws, and lay the IMRC actuator aside to access the spark plugs on cylinders 4, 5 and 6.

5. Disconnect ignition wires from spark plugs (12405) as described.

6. Loosen spark plugs 1/4 turn. Using compressed air, remove any dirt or foreign material from spark plug areas of valve cover (6582).

7. Note: Mark location of each spark plug for installation.

Remove spark plugs.

8. Note: Refer to «Spark Plug Inspection Chart» to determine the condition of the spark plugs.

Check and adjust spark plugs as described.


Installation

1. Follow removal procedure in reverse order.

2. Tighten spark plugs to 9-20 N-m (80-177 lb-in).

 

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Discussion Starter #16
right hand side from the front of the car, or right hand side as in passenger side?

i don't see how you could do it without removing both sides. even then it ain't gonna be pretty. you almost have to take the hood off to get back there so you can see.

i'm bitching about this too much. thank you guys for all the advice and opinions. i'm gonna try to remove the cowl and if that don't work i'll take it to a mechanic and watch him change them to make sure he's actually changing them.

thanks again. :)
 

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Originally posted by spridget@Aug 11 2004, 07:46 AM
right side refers to the car's right (as in passenger) (don't ask an Aussie what side the passenger side is on cuz he'd be wrong :p )

And the Gen 3 Duratecs have an aluminum intake which is bulkier than the Gen 4 plastic intake.
Yeah thats why I wasn't gonna say which side hehehe.

Thats from the 1997 Ford Service CD I have, so I guess it applies to the Gen 3 Duratec intake?

Ah its so confusing

Julian
 

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Discussion Starter #19
okay. i'll see what i can see next week. i have four days off where i don't have to go anywhere...so plenty of time incase the damn engine falls apart when i start removing stuff.

thanks for all the input.
 

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Just repalce the damned gaskets.
It would be much easier than NOT doing it and having to do the job all over cause something leaked.

YOu do enough repairs and you learn that gaskets are NOT forgiving.
Spend the money.
 
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