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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2000 SEL

Brake warning light coming on intermittently, and TC/ABS deactivated at same time. After checking out all the easy stuff concluded (after searching threads on this forum) that it was the ABS controller module. Bought a salvage pump/controller (from an '03 with TC) for $85 and finally changed it - fixed the problem.

The unit is secured to the pump with six torx (T20) screws, there's power connector on bottom, and the communication connector held in place by a handle that you pull laterally (which cams the connector up and out of the socket).

Tips on changing - remove battery and holder to access the upper screws, remove the air dam (connected to the bumper fascia) to access the bottom screws and the power connector.

You'll need patience and 1-2 hours. For those six torx screws I had an assortment of bit holders, stubby drives, extensions, and mini 1/4 inch drive ratchet, of which I used all. There isn't much room to the front (fan shroud), but it wasn't as bad as I thought. Didn't need to remove anything else, (upper radiator hose will collapse enough when it gets in the way). The screws on the salvage unit and my faulty unit didn't require much torque to remove, but you might need to clean out corrosion so the bit seats well.

When replacing the electrical comm connector - insert the handle 1/2 way before starting the connector on because there are slots in the handle that mate with four pins on the module to cam the connector down into place. If you put the connector on all the way before inserting the handle, then the handle picks up the wrong pins (the first two) and it will only slide in 1/2 the way.

Good luck - saved many hundreds by DIY on this one.

So, in the last month: changed steering rack (ugh - horrible job), new quick struts (not so bad:D), rebuilt rear brakes (I hate drums), new master cylinder (easy), new headlight switch (easy), new sentinel sensor (sunload sensor - easy). Last year: vacuum hoses and PVC, power steering pump, water pump. Finally, it has passed my tests and ready to turn over to my baby daughter in a few weeks on her 16th. Now if there was only a quick fix for a bad autolamp relay:angry:
 

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ABS removal tools pictures

I did the same fix....the previuos post by kjcole is a great write up..
This is exactly how you do it.
I have pictures of the tools I made ,to get to the abs box,
If anyone needs them, send me a pm and i'll send the pics to you.
(I can't figure out how to attach them here):unsure:

These are the tools you will need.
A number 20 torx screw driver with the plastic handle cut off so the total lenght is now no longer than 4 and 3/4 inches long.

An allen wrench with an adapter from ACE hardware to hold in a number 20 torx bit.

The lenght of the allen wrench from handle end to the 90 degree point is 2 and 3/4 inches and the length from the top of the bend to the tip of the bit is 2 and 1/2 inches.


This procedure can be done, but it is a VERY slow process. Take the battery out and the plastic battery liner as well.
The metal tray that holds the battery to the car, I could not figure how to get it out, so I worked around it with these tools. AT NO time disconnect any of the plumbing to the ABS pump. Leave those lines intact otherwise you will have a huge problem.

The two screws on the top of the ABS can be reached from the top of the engine compartment looking down.

The middle two and bottom two torx screws need to be accessed from under the car,
if I remember right, the middle 2 will give you the most problem!

Be careful unplugging the electrical connection to the unit, as the plastic connector can be very brittle !!
 

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I had to bring this thread up for some more inputs from you guys, have been trying to avoid messing with the ABS module itself. Here is my symptoms (http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/118...intermitently-01-dohc-what-might-problem.html), almost identical to most of the symptoms listed here.

More recently, I got much much less time when traction control flashed and turned off abs+brake light. 99% of the time, that two lights stayed on all the time and I don't have traction control, couldn't make connection with ABS scanner. But I just changed my driver side wheel hub, so I popped off the ball joint, tie-rod end etc, and axle on that side, the ABS sensor connector looked clean, did not find any missing teeth or clogged teeth (by mud and stuff) on the tone ring. The parts looked OK in terms of physical condition, I used wire brush to clean a little bit on the tone ring, and wiped the connector of that speed sensor clean. Over the weekend, I got back the abs and traction control (no lights) twice.

Do you guys still think it's a bad ABS electric module or I have some hope of cleaning up and solving the problem?
 

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As long as you don't remove any brake lines from the hydraulic portion of the ABS unit, you won't need to do any programming. I think some people have confused programming with bleeding the hydraulic portion of the ABS unit. I don't know of any programming required with the Gen 4 version of the Bosch ABD unit.
 

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Took out my ABS module from under the battery, sent it off to Module Masters $176 for repair, got my module back and installed it back onto my Brake Hydraulic Unit. Took car for a test drive, everything works as should.

Side note** After driving the car around and verifying that the BRAKE WARNING Light would not come on anymore and the car was safe to pass inspection, I decided to take my car for an inspection + Emissions test. Failed emissions because I had recently disconnected the battery, WTH???
Apparently if the battery gets disconnected, the O2 readings get erased and the car has to be driven around for about 80 miles in order for the Oxygen readings get updated. Crazy, so inspection station said to come back and they will take a reading then pass the car.
 

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Opps, retiredtaurus..... Symptoms....ABS lite on. Took it to the shop (not stealership) and they called and said it was the left front sensor. Well, guess what? It was NOT the left front sensor...and then they told me it was in the wiring to the left front sensor. I checked continuity from the sensor to the connector on the module...and it is good. I checked to see if I could hear the pump running but can not..not while it is KOIO or Running. Nada.

Before I pull off the module I need a couple questions answered. When should I be able to hear the pump running....or does it only run when it detects brake engagement of slipping or whatever. I am leaning toward the module needing replacement/repair and will start my search for one today.

Vehicle: 2003 DOHC SES with Traction Control. When I called Module Masters, I was quoted $160. to rebuild. She also told me that if they check it and there is nothing wrong, they will send it back and no charge. I have to pay shipping, but no charge for checking it. Not bad.

Still need to find out when the pump is supposed to run? Constantly, or when the system is activated?? One last question.... Is the space between the tone (gear thing) and the sensor important or do they seat as is? The serviceman tried to tell me that it may have to be shimmed. I have seen nothing on this anywhere so far. I took the old one out, slid the new one in and installed the bolt. Gap is 24 thousandths.
 

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Bosch ABS controller

Did this procedure on my 2001 DOHC and it's exactly as stated. Only thing I can add is that it took longer to get the small bolts back in than to get them out. Oh and be careful not to drop your torx bits into the subframe. You'll never get them out. My module was dead for three years before I got around to removing it. Sent it to BBA REMAN because they were local. chrged me 159 to repair with lifetime warranty. I reinstalled and got my traction control light back during start up but no ABS light so I scanned it. I have three faults. A SCP COMM failure, a brake pedal input failure, and a RR speed sensor failure. Need to do some diagnostics to see if the module is still bad and I have to pull it out again or is the speed sensor error causing the problem. Will also try clearing the codes first to see if they come back.
 

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OK, my ABS module is out and oh its way to Module Masters. Was not hard at all (difficult at times) but not hard. Will do a write up now including pics and the tools I needed.


I have completed the write up along with pictures, but apparently I can only add 20 kb per item, and since it is in excess of 600kb...I will send it to anyone who PMs me.
ABS MODULE REMOVAL 2003 Taurus SES (DOHC) is a .docx

Send PM or ask via e-mail to [email protected]
 

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OK, my ABS module is out and oh its way to Module Masters. Was not hard at all (difficult at times) but not hard. Will do a write up now including pics and the tools I needed.


I have completed the write up along with pictures, but apparently I can only add 20 kb per item, and since it is in excess of 600kb...I will send it to anyone who PMs me.
ABS MODULE REMOVAL 2003 Taurus SES (DOHC) is a .docx

Awesome, I just found this and it's been driving me nuts for a while now, sending you a PM hope you still have this .doc file!
 

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OK, my ABS module is out and oh its way to Module Masters. Was not hard at all (difficult at times) but not hard. Will do a write up now including pics and the tools I needed.


I have completed the write up along with pictures, but apparently I can only add 20 kb per item, and since it is in excess of 600kb...I will send it to anyone who PMs me.
ABS MODULE REMOVAL 2003 Taurus SES (DOHC) is a .docx
Hi saw your post - is it possible to get the write up on removing / replacing the ABS module. Ours is bad - I'm getting a B1342 ABS code.
 
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