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Re: 1994 Taurus GL Station Wagon. w/95 3.8L Engine. My previous post included the fact that when I start this car up for the first time in the a.m. it runs as good as anybody would want and then after the first stop and restart, I get no pickup and the temp goes up. Some have offered that the cats are clogged. The only question that I have concerning that is if the cats are clogged, wouldn't the car have a bad pickup and start heating up right off the bat and not after a 3-5 mile run. I only ask because a bad EGR Valve Position Sensor can create the same symptoms. Replacing the cats are a lot more expensive ($250-400) than about $75.00 for a new sensor. I value your input.
 

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QUOTE (zuko @ Jun 6 2010, 09:47 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809836
Re: 1994 Taurus GL Station Wagon. w/95 3.8L Engine. My previous post included the fact that when I start this car up for the first time in the a.m. it runs as good as anybody would want and then after the first stop and restart, I get no pickup and the temp goes up. Some have offered that the cats are clogged. The only question that I have concerning that is if the cats are clogged, wouldn't the car have a bad pickup and start heating up right off the bat and not after a 3-5 mile run. I only ask because a bad EGR Valve Position Sensor can create the same symptoms. Replacing the cats are a lot more expensive ($250-400) than about $75.00 for a new sensor. I value your input.[/b]
$250-$400 just to replace the cats? If you're gonna spend that much, you can replace the entire y-pipe. Cats by itself is $40-$70 per cat then you add how much you pay to get them welded.
 

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QUOTE (zuko @ Jun 6 2010, 12:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809836
Re: 1994 Taurus GL Station Wagon. w/95 3.8L Engine. My previous post included the fact that when I start this car up for the first time in the a.m. it runs as good as anybody would want and then after the first stop and restart, I get no pickup and the temp goes up. Some have offered that the cats are clogged. The only question that I have concerning that is if the cats are clogged, wouldn't the car have a bad pickup and start heating up right off the bat and not after a 3-5 mile run. I only ask because a bad EGR Valve Position Sensor can create the same symptoms. Replacing the cats are a lot more expensive ($250-400) than about $75.00 for a new sensor. I value your input.[/b]
You assume correct. If the cats are clogged, you will notice performance problems within seconds of startup, and may also hear rattling noises. Opening the throttle would not increase performance significantly, and the engine would bog down as the RPMs increase.

A bad EGR or a bad ECT sensor more closely matches your symptoms. You could also have a bad O2 sensor or a faulty MAF sensor.
 

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I just want to add, from my own experience, when a Cat starts to clog (and it can be just one of them) the ****** performance creeps in slowly, not all at once instantly. The partial back-pressure from a partially clogged Cat will star to play havoc with your EGR system, too. Eliminate the cheapest problems first before you replace your Y-pipe. Welding in just new Cats isn't worth the money, in my experience most of the welding work is fair at best, usually worse.
 

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QUOTE (drh1957 @ Jun 6 2010, 02:15 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809880
I just want to add, from my own experience, when a Cat starts to clog (and it can be just one of them) the ****** performance creeps in slowly, not all at once instantly. The partial back-pressure from a partially clogged Cat will star to play havoc with your EGR system, too. Eliminate the cheapest problems first before you replace your Y-pipe. Welding in just new Cats isn't worth the money, in my experience most of the welding work is fair at best, usually worse.[/b]
I've had my cats welded 2xs prior and it was fine. Then I put in the Magnflow high flow y-pipe.
 

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If you can get to the cats with a rod and then beat the crap out of them with the rod using a hammer on the rod... You'll unclog those cats. Guarantied. I unclogged the cats on a 1996 Windstar this way. Worked like a dream.
 

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there is a way to test to see if the cats are bad or starting to restrict it involves a vacuum gague and a haynes manual but can be done if looking to replace the y and cats check the price shosource.com i think it's . com but not sure they should cost less then $400 to do by your self and the ones sho source has are high flow cats. which will be better than oem there must be a reason there plugging up like bad egr or some thing similar. so i would look for a cause and go from there if you plan to replace them.
 

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QUOTE (2000Sable @ Jun 6 2010, 06:40 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809915
If you can get to the cats with a rod and then beat the crap out of them with the rod using a hammer on the rod... You'll unclog those cats. Guarantied. I unclogged the cats on a 1996 Windstar this way. Worked like a dream.[/b]
Which you shouldn't have had to do except the Windstar must have been running like crap to do that. The cats don't clog unless another tuning or severe oil leak, or blown head gasket happens first, unless you get unlucky and they hit with junk on the highway.

The ones on SHO source are ordinary cats with a 400 cell per inch ceramic substrate of roughly the same dimensions. They have similar flow characteristics and are the same sized tubing. They only way they will work better than the stock ones are if the original cats are plugged.

It is for that reason the EPA cracked down on the loose use of the term "high flow" when used in conjunction with converters. Under the new guidelines, "high flow" means the converter has to have a lower cell density or a greater cross section than the OEM converter.

Nothing personal against SHOsource. I look forward to buying lots of things from them. But I do a lot with converters and exhausts, and am an expert in the field. The units sold on SHOsource are ordinary converters that are roughly equivalent to OEM except the catalyst in them is not nearly as good. You will only notice an improvement in two areas. One, they will flow better than a plugged stock converter, which is a big duh. And they might be louder because the catalyst bricks inside are smaller, so they won't absorb as much sound.

I am having a company custom build some cats by my Duratec that actually will be high flow with mandrel bent tubing. They will use 200 cpi metallic substrate, which will flow about 50% better. They are also almost completely impervious to clogging even if something did go wrong with the tubing, and even if they were physically damaged, it would have virtually no effect on them.
 

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SHOSource doesn't have any y pipes for the 3.8 Essex. The Walker and Catco y pipes are what is it..stock replacement with near stock specs.

I do enjoy the Magnaflow high flow y pipe though.
 

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At least for us Vulcan owners, I was under the impression that the exhaust ports in the block are quite undersized to begin with. Unless you've already pulled the engine, ported it, polished it, and are able to retune the PCM, what possible benefit is there from replacing the Y-pipe?
 

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A simple test for clogged cats is to get under the car and see if the cats are glowing after running the car.

QUOTE (fdogg96 @ Jun 7 2010, 02:50 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=810062
SHOSource doesn't have any y pipes for the 3.8 Essex. The Walker and Catco y pipes are what is it..stock replacement with near stock specs.

I do enjoy the Magnaflow high flow y pipe though.[/b]
We can get them. We just dont list everything.
 

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Which you shouldn't have had to do except the Windstar must have been running like crap to do that. The cats don't clog unless another tuning or severe oil leak, or blown head gasket happens first, unless you get unlucky and they hit with junk on the highway.[/b]
The poor Windstar had seen better days when I beat the cores out of the cats, the 3.8 had some issues as a production engine but the one in my 96 Windstar went 200k without having a single major repair. She was traded in at 200k miles and she ran like a top as far as the car salesman knew. I got $700 for her. She just didn't have much for cats left at that point. So yes, a cat will clog over time. Nothing major has to occur, just time and miles. Lots and lots of miles.

PS. The transmission was a AXOD and she was untouched and original... She was a tank. God I loved that van. /sniff
 

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QUOTE (2000Sable @ Jun 7 2010, 05:02 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=810171
Which you shouldn't have had to do except the Windstar must have been running like crap to do that. The cats don't clog unless another tuning or severe oil leak, or blown head gasket happens first, unless you get unlucky and they hit with junk on the highway.[/b]
The poor Windstar had seen better days when I beat the cores out of the cats, the 3.8 had some issues as a production engine but the one in my 96 Windstar went 200k without having a single major repair. She was traded in at 200k miles and she ran like a top as far as the car salesman knew. I got $700 for her. She just didn't have much for cats left at that point. So yes, a cat will clog over time. Nothing major has to occur, just time and miles. Lots and lots of miles.

PS. The transmission was a AXOD and she was untouched and original... She was a tank. God I loved that van. /sniff
[/b][/quote]


Again cats do not clog over time. They clog when something goes wrong and it is left unfixed. None of my cats have ever clogged without something going wrong first. My Mazda was the only vehicle that ever had the cats clog up, it had a distributor go bad when my dad owned the truck. He was out of town and had to drive 500 miles with only two cylinders. The cats didn't like that very much, melted right down.

My dad's Ranger has 320,000 miles, original cats, his Dakota with 340,000 drove for 200,000 miles with low compression, but still has the original cat. My dad used to have a Chevy Prism, it went over 400,000 miles on the original cat. My Aerostar has 240,000 miles with the original cats. The cats that plug are on the vehicles that are not kept properly maintained. By properly maintained, that means keeping it to the factory specs as outlined in the owners manual, including replacing the O2 sensors at 80,000 miles. Most people forget that O2 sensors are maintenance items.

Again, back to the original topic, your symptoms are not consistent with a plugged converter. Furthermore, you will most likely get a P0420 or P0430 code before the cats plug anyway. If you do not have a converter code, then converters belong really low on your list. I have seen a weak fuel pump that closely matched your symptoms. The pump works fine when cold, but as the pump heats up, it loses power.
 

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KhanTyranitar we will just have to disagree. I like your take on things though. No gray in your world. ;)
 

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QUOTE (KhanTyranitar @ Jun 7 2010, 07:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=810198
Again cats do not clog over time. They clog when something goes wrong and it is left unfixed. None of my cats have ever clogged without something going wrong first.[/b]
V-6 Contours had problems with the upstream cats failing and getting clogged. The Contour.org boards are full of threads on how to diagnose and solve catalytic converter problems, but they never talk about doing anything illegal like gutting the cats, they simply refer to the 'mystery mod'. The cat also failed in the I-4 Contour that I still own. It simply dissintegrated, never had a problem with the car before that and it ran like a sewing machine after the mystery mod, so I simply bolted up a set of headers later on and enjoyed the extra power.
 

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Question for LoudSHO. My Cats are starting to rattle a little bit so I may be getting the magnaflow y-pipe from you. I looked into magnaflow's products and they do not offer a 50 state legal y-pipe for the vulcan, only 49, yet shosource calls it 50. Wassup wit dat!? Just sayin'.
 
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