[sr_ryan1]

its a 92 taurus 3.8, GL 158k miles on it. the engine will turn over fine, but it just want start, i checked the fuel at the rail, and is good, dont smell or see any coolant, all fusses where checked wiht a test light and are good, i pulled all spark plugs and replaced all new wires, and cap and its getting good fire, what could it be wrong with it?
also

i ran a code scanner on it and got a code 33 and a 133 but what does a code 133 mean? i dont see a 133 in the code reading manual? i know the code 33 means the EGR is not opening right but should not keep it from not starting, can anyone help me out? could it be water in the gas maybe? if so how do i check?


thanks
Ryan

 

[Riptaph]

This sounds like a similiar problem that my roommate has with his '92 cavalier, the engine will turn over but it won't start. So right now we are trying to figure out what is wrong with his car. He was just driving and he said that the engine turned off and it felt like the car was going in neutral. I know it's a GM, but any help would be appreciated.

 

[sundarpn]

compression??

 

[sr_ryan1]

how would i check the compression?

 

[Xee]

Found this on another forum regarding the 133 code; not sure if it applies

For an eccv the code translates to...

Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor circuit Slow Response - Bank No. 1

For an eec-iv it translates to....

EGR Valve 2 voltage high ( this is per Bosch codes for Ford ECUs )

 

[sr_ryan1]

Originally posted by Xee@May 5 2004, 04:07 PM
Found this on another forum regarding the 133 code; not sure if it applies

For an eccv the code translates to...

Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor circuit Slow Response - Bank No. 1

For an eec-iv it translates to....

EGR Valve 2 voltage high ( this is per Bosch codes for Ford ECUs )

i unpluged the EGR connections, but didnt make any diffrents, it dont seem to effect the engine starting up

 

[viper]

Timing belt. That second story with the roomate is exactly what happened to me in a 83 Fairmont years ago. Sat on the side of the road turning the key and the motor turned but wouldn't start.

 

[NateNBeckie]

The Caviler may be the timing belt, but the 3.8 Taurus wouldn't be. I had that same thing happen to me in my Escort about 8 years ago and the timing belt slipped.

I don't know what to say about the 3.8 Taurus. This is very, very, very rare but the timing chain could have jumped. I doubt that you have that much water in your tank. If you lost compression because of a bad cylendar, it would most likely be on only one cylendar and it would still at least try to run.

It's gotta be a timing thing. I just don't know where to start.

 

[J Rod]

check the inertia switch.

look in your manual for location mine is on the right side of the trunk.

push the button in if it is all the way in then it is in the right position.

 

[sr_ryan1]

that fuel pump switch was the first thing i checked, i still pushed down on it just to make suer it was all the way down, i will check the #1 piston for BTDC and see if timing is off

 

[gajuggalo]

I am having the same problem. The very same problem. Driving down the road and just died. I have replace the pump, filter and fuel pressure regulator. Not timing cause when I spray starter fluid in the intake the car will start then die when the starter fluid is used up. Was told to change the map sensor but can't locate it. If you solve your problem plus let me know been working on the car for 3 weeks now.

 

[sybermythh]

To chaeck compression, buy a compresion gauge at napa etc. (around $30, I think) or just remove your spark plug, stick your finger in the hole, and have someone crank it over. It should have enough compression to force your finger out.

 

[madness_spirit]

I doubt it would be compression problems, they dont come on suddenly, they usually only affect one cylinder at a time. Therefore your engine would have been starting badly and running rough for quite a while before quitting. Maybe timing chain slipping. Perhaps your injectors arent working, pull out a spark plug and smell for gas when you turn it over. If you smell it then maybe you just have bad gas. But this sounds more like a fuel delivery problem.

 

[Guest]

like the others said.. change your fuel filter, and check the switch, last but not least get the fuel pump tested.. or do it yourself just be carefull with sparks

 

[projectSHO89]

If your engine won't run due to a fuel delivery problem, check to see if the fuel pump energizes for 1-2 seconds when the ignition key is first turned to RUN from OFF. You should hear the whine of the pump when it energizes.

If you do not hear the pump, you have an electrical problem in the circuit that provides power to the pump or that turns on the drive power.

If checking the inertia switch does not bring the pump back online, diagnosic test will have to be performed to see where the power/function is being lost.

On a 93 with a 3.8, possible causes are: 50A fuse, PCM, CCRM, inertia switch, pump, or any or the associated wiring.

If your CEL illuminates when turning the key to RUN (it should), the 50 A fuse is okay. If no CEL check the 50A fuse and the IGN COIL fuse.

If the engine won't fire and there is no spark, check that 10A IGN COIL fuse first.

Steve

 

[eCarâ„¢]

Recent fuel problem that I fixed on an Explorer turned out to be a relay for the fuel pump.

Fuel pump was not running at all. But the owner was convinced that he did not have a fuel delivery problem because he cracked the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and got sprayed with fuel in the face. He was asking me to put a scope on the injectors to see if they were getting a signal. I hit the valve and saw a pretty good spray, but I was suspicious. Until you've seen what 40psi on that rail looks like when you crack the valve, it would be easy to be fooled into thinking you have good pressure, even if you only have 10psi. In fact, I must stress that you must be extremely careful if you are going to check for fuel pressure by just cracking the valve on the fuel rail! Sheild your face. Wear eye protection. You will be surpised at the blast of fuel that will come out. You really should use a guage though. Your car probably won't even try to start when you get down to about 20psi, and I don't think I could tell the difference between 20 and 40psi (reliably) by just guessing like that.

So, I turned the key and listened for the pump. Heard nothing. Skipped the inertia switch because it was an intermittent problem (had happened before and probably would start if the truck sat for several hours). Popped the hood and found the relay box that contained the fuel pump relay. Right next to it was a relay for ABS that was the same part number. I swapped them. The truck fired right up. So, we got him a new relay for the ABS, and he was all set. $5 fix in 5 minutes.