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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey I got my Taurus, 1990 with 270,000kms on my 3L vulcan.

It rained alot the other night and it was quite humid when i went out side. I got in my car, turned it over to start and thats all it would do, spin and spin. no firing at all, were talking 0. So I gave up after 5 minutes or so, cuz i had to be at school.

Walked back to my car in the rain, got some gas put it in the car (just in case I was out) Same thing, just spun. So I turned the key off, put the pedal to the floor, and just let her keep spinning, did this at 15-20sec intervals for 3 or 4 minutes, finally started sputtering, then finally started running. Idle seemed normal, everything seemed OK.

On the way to school, the car uncharacteristically heisitaed from a stop. Got into the parking lot, played with the gas revving and such, just let it sit, and it eventually sputtered out. Went to start it back up, same thing it was flooded again and I had to floor it to air the engine out, then it eventually started.

When i went out two hours later, it started like normal, 1/2second of starter spin and it was running fine and idling fine.


Got back to the hotel, hooked my code reader up, and now this is the whacky part.
all I got were codes 25,74,52, Code 25 Represents the Knock Sensor not being sensed. 74, P/S Switch, and 52, The Brake witch.

Anyone have some clue as to why its being like that?
 

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Maybe you have a couple of leaky injectors. You say your getting code 25. Is your Taurus an SHO ? What is the 8th letter in your VIN ? Maybe the computer was changed before you got the car and now you have the wrong computer in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did an engine test.

Give it up with the computer, that is highly unlikely since I have been driving the car for the last 30,000 KM with no problems what so ever. It only failed to start once or twice in 30,000kms, I just drove accross the country with it, the car started when it was a-35C so I doubt it is the computer. Do you have any other ideas besides the comp?
 

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Hey Zep i got a 87 Vulcan that i modified to run as a 90 they are the same and i have to agree with you the computer on this car is quite simple. I wouldn't worry about the code 25 unless you get it more then once. I have scanned my taurus and have gotten that code twice and i know it is not bad. Given the ford product as the worse car to give codes and data EEC-IV is the hardest car to diagnose. I have had more troubles then anyone i can think of in the taurus (I Think) Before we begin this nasty diagnose. We have to determine if these code are KOEO or KOER codes. IM assuming these are KOEO codes.

Code 25 Ks signal not sensed during test
Code 52 PSPS always open or staying closed
Code 74 Brake Not activated during self test

Well after reading these codes I know that you did the KOER these are all self test engine running codes

When you didi the self test and have enter the self test you must rotate the steering wheel 180 degrees and press and release the brake pedal. If you don't 2 out of 3 of these codes will appear. try doing the test again and to see if these come up again. Try doing KOEO and the KOER tests and get the codes again.

I will help you as much as i can but like i said these computers are tough to figure out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No I didn't do the seering wheel thing and the brake thing. I Read that afterwards. Tomorrow I may go out and just pull the continuous memory codes and see if there is anything in there. Code 25 basically means that the comp will just use the default setting for it.
 

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The only thing the Knock sensor does it retard the engine when it is detonating. It will not keep it from running do you know a lot about taking the upper intake off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I can take my upper intake off completely in like 5 mins or less
. I am going to clean my IAC thingy soon. I don't have any money right now at all this sux so bad. Im afraid to drive my car anywhere
 

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I was going to say if you suspect leaky injectors take the upper intake off take the fuel rail off leaving the fuel lines connected and then zip tie the fuel injectors to the fuel rail so they wont come off the rail then cycle the key on off about 6 times letting the fuel pump turn off each time then look at injectors to see if they are leaking. it helps to have someone in front of the car watching and also make sure you disconnect the IGN coil to prevent any fires and such. Just becareful doing this loosing an injector will shoot gas everywhere. Make sure the injectors are dry with a paper towel before you begin and then when you done take a paper towel and make sure you don't wipe ANY gas from then if so thats the one leaking. Also you can take out the PLUGS and see if they are all burning properly and maybe swap out with some new ones maybe its not just burning the fuel. Maybe something as simple as wire cap and rotor with some plugs.
 

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86-90 do not have MAF sensors these are the most basic of all taurus motors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well the plugs are the only thing i haven't changed, but do you really think all of them would go and not get any fire at all? I think the ignition coil might have had something to do with it. I did clean the terminal off, but still thats a lot of voltage it should be able to jump it you know what i mean..
 

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If your wires are old and you get alot of moisture in the engine compartment, the spark will "leak" from the wires and arc to the nearest ground, usually somewhere on the engine. It's just a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Im thinking that it may be bad spark plug wires. I have changed the plugs, dist. cap and rotor, and maybe its the plug wires, later, I beleive the allowable resistance is 5.5kohm per foot right? i'll cehck them later

Car seemed to run fine on the way to school today, started right up like it normally does. I dunno.
 
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