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Discussion Starter #1
I've been looking thru the forums and have found partial similar situations but not sure if any apply. My mom has a 2002 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC that recently started lurching forward when beginning from a stop. This last for a few seconds and then the car seems to accelerate correctly. At times between 2000 and 3000 rpms the tach will rev but you can tell the car doesn't seem to be in gear, when the tach comes down it will again "grab" and move forward. I've changed the air filters and transmission fluid recently, a check last night confirmed fluid level is still fine. When this began and she took it to the shop it had thrown a engine code indicating a camshaft synchronizer, the shop just printed off a webpage about what the code was and told her the transmission was likely dead. It has not thrown that code again and it doesn't make the chirping I read about in every other post about that item. What could be the issue? Is it the synchronzier?
 

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Tec cam syncro is a VR sensor that virtually never fails. Vulcan engine are the ones that have the syncro problems.

Are you 100% sure trans fluid was checked correctly...... fluid hot, engine running, car on level surface, put shifter in all gears, and check level.
 
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I'd have to say yes on the fluid, those are the steps I used to check. I've read possibly a VSS or OSS could cause this?? I'm just not sure which, if either, I have if I should consider that.
 

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^+1 with Jeff. The Duratec engine does not have a camshaft synchronizer. It does have a camshaft position sensor (cmp) on the forward end of the front bank (bank#2). That being said, I've never heard of one failing. Ever. Vss and oss are the same thing. Transaxle output sensor. Ford changed the name from vss to oss in 2000. Hover over bold print for definitions.
 

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So I think you're all confirming that it's probably not the synchronizer, which I was suspicious of since there was no chirping sound and the code has not come back. Any recommendations on what I should be looking at?
 

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^ Forget the cam sync. If you have the Duratec eng., you don't have a cam sync. P0341= cmp sensor circuit range/performance. May start by checking the cmp sensor elec. conn. and wiring. Check the sensor itself for obvious damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
does being a v6 dohc make it a Duratec engine or how do I tell which engine I have? I see a lot of post about a Vulcan engine?
 

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Yes the Tec is the DOHC, the Vulcan is OHV. Look at the 8th character of your VIN, if it's an S you have a Tec. If it is a U you have a Vulcan and if it is a number you have a flex fuel Vulcan.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm seeing 2 different types of camshaft sensors, 1 looks look to go overtop the camshaft synchronizer and 1 looks like it has a stick that goes into the engine. Both say they are exact fits??? Which should I attempt to replace on this issue?
 

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^ The cmp sensor that mounts atop the cam sync is for the Vulcan engine. Remember, if you have the Duratec as stated in your profile, you don't have a cam sync. You have the other cmp sensor that mounts on the forward end of the front bank.
 

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I wouldn't use durajunk electronics, might as well torch the car. You can get a Motorcraft sensor from rockauto for $18. It's unlikely the sensor itself is bad. The connector, wiring and wire routing causing interference are all more likely candidates. I wouldn't change the sensor until I ruled them out.
 

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I wouldn't use durajunk electronics, might as well torch the car. You can get a Motorcraft sensor from rockauto for $18. It's unlikely the sensor itself is bad. The connector, wiring and wire routing causing interference are all more likely candidates. I wouldn't change the sensor until I ruled them out.

I remember only one having a fail in our group, and as I remember it broke. Crank sensor. And be careful, crank and cam sensors they are different part no and look 99% the same but they do not interchange in how they work.
I traded with JY parts and it made no difference. So my old sensors are in my parts box and the JY parts have been in the car for several years. Since I have spares now, I will never need them. Murphy's LAW lives again. :D
-chart-
 

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While they do fail on occasion it is rare. Chart's point is well taken, with certain parts it's worth having working spares around for diagnostic purposes. I have (known good) spare used IAC, CKP. CMP, VSS, ABS sensors, relays, fan resistor and other parts simply because they make for a quick diagnosis. Of course that's more worthwhile to those of us (hello Chart, Sheila, Eric) who like myself are repeat offenders when it comes to repeatedly sticking with the devil we know rather than making the acquaintance of a new one.
 
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