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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, I have a 96 Taurus with a bad differential seal. Got the car up on stands, the tire off, disc and caliber off, but I can't get the control arm off. First I bought a junk control arm puller and that broke in half in short order. Then I bought the best I could find and that one is bending (just a bit) and still the C arm won't budge. I've sprayed it down with PB Buster. Put tention on it with the puller and beat the crap out of the C arm with a hammer and still.....nothing. To state the obvious, I did remove the nut:D

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers. Dennis.
 

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Have have not jacked up the arm by the arm have you? Is it free to move around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good thought and one I did not think of, but yes, it is free to move. I did have to take a small 10lbs sludge hammer to the roter to get it loosened up. Maybe this is the same issue.....just old and rusty.

There is no "C" clip holding it on the bottom or anything else I can see and the manual does not mention anything like that.
 

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To clear things up, you are trying to get it out of the balljoint, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think we are talking about the same thing. The lower control arm has a hole at the end and that slips up the threaded end of the ball joint. I have to disconect the control arm so it will fall away so I can pull the half shaft out to replace the diff. seal. I am use to working on 40, 50, and 60s cars and truck. This is very new fangled to me. Thanks.
 

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Okay, yeah same thing.

Well, I suppose you could always unbolt the control arm from the subframe and then try and pry it away from the ball join then, but that's asking a little too much I think.

What I have done, and others, is to get a pitman arm puller, a large one, and then put it around the end of the balljoint, like you tried before, and when it starts to bend, leave it, and then get a 10-lb sledge and start beating on the control arm. Some say the vibration will cause it to come loose, but I have never needed to do this.

I just did this a few months back on a car that has seen a lot of rust on the balljoints and the pitman arm puller popped it out no problem.

I would recommend a air gun if you have one.
 

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hi,after the balljoint nut is off,if there is a pinch bolt also remove it,then use a long prybar to pry the lower control arm down ,the balljoint stud will slip out of the spindle and its apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, progress report. NOTHING! I have beat on the LCA with the pitman puller on it, I have gone through 3 Pitman pullers. All have bent and they are the good ones. I've heated the ball joint bolt with the puller on it. From what I can see, there is no pinch bolt on the LCA holding the ball joint bolt in place. I am out of options. What should I do next? If I take a cut off saw to the ball joint bolt, can I have the ball joint replaced on this model or will I have to buy a new knuckle? Cheers.
 

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You can replace the ball joint. But you need a special removal tool for the Taurus. Most places should have them.

I too have one I can't get out. Busted the pitman arm puller. What the problem sees to be is the control arm does not have enough surface to grab for the jaws of the pitman arm puller and it starts to slip which causes uneven force applied to the jaws resulting in a sudden catastrophic failure of the cast iron puller.

That being said I did manage to get the axle out of the hub and strut off the car with the ball joint and control arm still in place on the drivers side.
 

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If i understand the issues, you cannot get the bottom of the ball joint out of the A arm.

I just did the CV shaft in my 98. I had a hell of a time getting the ball joint out, but i got it out. Used a Harbor freight puller set to pop it loose.

After i got it out and loose somehow, i could NOT get it to go back into the lower A arm. I tried a tire iron, and other sized pry bars. No Joy. i only needed a 1/2 inch or so. So close, but so far. Then, i went with the bigger hammer theory. I got a 5' pipe i had laying around and used it as a LONG lever pry bar. It bought me the extra space i needed to get it back into the lower A arm.
 

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Soak it with 50/50 ATF & acetone, then use a GOOD Pitman tool on it. I borrowed the front suspension tool kit from Advance when I did mine.
 

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I posted something similar in " balljoints wtf" ,post. Hope that helps
 

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This is what I did to get that control arm off. The spring and shock are pressing down on the arm. I put a jack under the hub and compressed the spring and shock up about 2 inches. Then I took a small sledge and hit the control arm down. Two good wacks freed it. Then I used a bar to pull the control arm down and move the bolt to the ball joint out of the way of the hole. Then I lowered the jack and it was free. The key point is getting the spring and shock compressed so they aren't pushing on the control arm. Hope this helps. I did it this last weekend on my 2002. I had to replace the pass. CV shaft. Total time to replace was about 1 hr. Good luck. Mike
 

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Bob...
I am having the same issue....
can't get ball joint stud lined back up with hole in lca.
I've pried down on the lca until it won't move but can't get the bottom end of the ball joint stud up high enough
I've even got the strut springs compressed and can't get it
ant suggestions?
 

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Bob...
I am having the same issue....
can't get ball joint stud lined back up with hole in lca.
I've pried down on the lca until it won't move but can't get the bottom end of the ball joint stud up high enough
I've even got the strut springs compressed and can't get it
ant suggestions?
So basically... what you are saying is that the balljoints stude is STILL not under the LCA with the lca pried all the way down and the strut fully compressed.. I don't believe you.

All you need to do is (if the ball joint is unable to be moved by hand) is get a hammer and just tap it lightly into place so the LCA will fit in it. Should be pretty simple... not sure where you are having problems. A picture does wonders.
 
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