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The battery looks weak from the git-go. Assuming you've cleaned all the connections thoroughly, I'd load test the battery. If you don't have a battery load tester, take it to and auto parts store and have them run a load test on the battery. Good chance it's not up to snuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I got my battery changed. I also did a voltage test for the new battery so that I could compare it to the old one.
Here are the results. I think it is safe to say the old one was indeed bad.

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Different rules for each of us as to when the battery is done. It is a wear item, like tires and brakes, but not so easy to measure.
I am concerned in my world to "reserve capacity". For me, how long can I drive with a failed charging system, or leaving things draining.
Chart same battery, new and 3.5 years later. Starting test, battery topped off with my automatic shutoff charger. Load 16A at the top but dropping off as volts drop, likely average 14A.
At 11.5V under load, can still start the car in mild weather. Time to when car quits driving ~11.0 volts on this load.
I have a circle on when you have reached no start, new battery 170 minutes, old battery 25 minutes. As the battery ages, the plates are used up and you have less and less surface area. Less reserve. I have no intention to run a battery to the limit of not cranking. NONE! I change my herd at 3 years. With 4 cars in my care, 5 drivers regular, I do not want to get the "CALL". again.
Exception: my Buick Lucerne which has not been the "have to go" car for quite a while until this Summer when I replaced the 9 year old battery, OE. However it is under the rear seat, not subject to the harsh use of heat and vibration, the battery killers. Special case, unlike Bulls.
-chart-
 

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I would check all cables and ends for rot any white or green color at any connection to battery fuse box or Ground cable can seem like a weak battery even with a perfect battery try cleaning all connections with a small wire brush and tighten ends
 
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