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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is on a 98 duratec DOHC engine. My pulley is ticking. I tried to remove it with an impact gun that is good to 275 ft/lb. I am turning the appropriate clockwise direction, as is written right on the pulley. I need to use a breaker bar and I need to block the flywheel. The manual says this is what needs to be done, but I am not sure where to access the flywheel from. I am not sure how much longer this pulley will last. It was damaged when my a/c pulley crapped and the belt snapped. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 

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If you lay straight and parallel with the vehcile slide under it it.
There is a piece of black plastic stuff /inspection cover on the bottom where the engine and tranny bolt together.
Pop it out.
You can see the flywheel if you look from the engine side.

I couldn't hold the damn flywheel with a screwdriver while reaching around to loosen the pully.

I wound up buying a tool that cost around 80 dollars

It is a rectangular piece of tool steel.
Flat on three sides and machined to match the fly wheel on the top.

You put it in at the inspection cover and it locks the flywheel.

Be careful and don't turn the Duratec backwards because you can jack up the valves.

Another way of locking the engine is to feed bailers twin down the spark plug hole and then rotate the engine until it locks.

Mike
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I pulled off the starter and slid a small crowbar into the hole crossing through the teeth of the flywheel and with a wrench turned the crankshaft clockwise until the flywheel was tight on the crowbar. Then I hit it with my big torque gun and it spun off. It may take a few tries, the crowbar worked itself loose and popped out.
 

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If you have a helper and a prybar the helper can hold the prybar against the teeth of the flexplate. A block of wood may come in handy too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. I will not rotate the motor backwards. Although, I guess this is more important when putting the pulley back on. I do remember seeing a small piece of black plastic under there that may be what you are talking about.

Will I be able to put a small pry bar in that inspection hole. I think this would be easier than removing the starter, right?

Is the flexplate the same as the flywheel? Thanks guys.
 

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i used a little bit of heat on mine...

so why does spinning it backward mess up the valves?
 

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QUOTE (sable23 @ May 25 2010, 03:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806739
i used a little bit of heat on mine...

so why does spinning it backward mess up the valves?[/b]
Because the book says not to do it.

I forgot to mention it in the original post but the thread is left hand.

Mike
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QUOTE (sable23 @ May 25 2010, 04:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806739
i used a little bit of heat on mine...

so why does spinning it backward mess up the valves?[/b]
The timing chains are held under tension by a ratcheting tensioner.
If you rotate the engine in reverse the tensioner will compress just a little bit.
There will be just enough slack to cause the chains to snag on something, or bind up.
The cams won't be moving properly either, so as you crank back the valves might be opened and the piston moves up.
I hope that answers you question.
 

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Yes that is the plastic piece

Paint will put an arrow on it but I don't feel like downloading it then uploading it.

I think the pins are actually considered screws but I popped them out.

Mike
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah, they kind of looked like plastic screws. So, they just pull straight out, no need to unscrew? Thanks for your help Mike.
Jeff

QUOTE (mwt @ May 25 2010, 08:17 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806886
Yes that is the plastic piece

Paint will put an arrow on it but I don't feel like downloading it then uploading it.

I think the pins are actually considered screws but I popped them out.

Mike
B)[/b]
 

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QUOTE (clydesdale @ May 24 2010, 07:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806635
This is on a 98 duratec DOHC engine. My pulley is ticking. I tried to remove it with an impact gun that is good to 275 ft/lb. I am turning the appropriate clockwise direction, as is written right on the pulley. I need to use a breaker bar and I need to block the flywheel. The manual says this is what needs to be done, but I am not sure where to access the flywheel from. I am not sure how much longer this pulley will last. It was damaged when my a/c pulley crapped and the belt snapped. Any thoughts? Thanks.[/b]
OK here you go first image is where it is located under car go follow bell housing seam of trans. and you will find it. the area is around 3"x3"x3".
[attachment=33260:inspecti...er_small.jpg]
I found it very hard to get anything in there to block up the flywheel.
The second image is the flywheel as it is shown with the cover removed.
[attachment=33261:flywheel.jpg]

I still am in the camp of going thru the starter opening. No special tool to buy, if you need to buy a crowbar you can use it for so many other job around the house and car. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
But wouldn't it be a lot easier to just remove the inspection plate rather than removing the starter?



QUOTE (Whitespys @ May 25 2010, 09:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806922
QUOTE (clydesdale @ May 24 2010, 07:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806635
This is on a 98 duratec DOHC engine. My pulley is ticking. I tried to remove it with an impact gun that is good to 275 ft/lb. I am turning the appropriate clockwise direction, as is written right on the pulley. I need to use a breaker bar and I need to block the flywheel. The manual says this is what needs to be done, but I am not sure where to access the flywheel from. I am not sure how much longer this pulley will last. It was damaged when my a/c pulley crapped and the belt snapped. Any thoughts? Thanks.[/b]
OK here you go first image is where it is located under car go follow bell housing seam of trans. and you will find it. the area is around 3"x3"x3".
[attachment=33260:inspecti...er_small.jpg]
I found it very hard to get anything in there to block up the flywheel.
The second image is the flywheel as it is shown with the cover removed.
[attachment=33261:flywheel.jpg]

I still am in the camp of going thru the starter opening. No special tool to buy, if you need to buy a crowbar you can use it for so many other job around the house and car. :)
[/b][/quote]
 

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QUOTE (clydesdale @ May 25 2010, 10:10 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806925
But wouldn't it be a lot easier to just remove the inspection plate rather than removing the starter?[/b]
Yes it is. But not by much.
Also, the special tool that is used when you use the inspection plate is hard to find by me.
And ordering it online, I always fear I'll get some flimsy cheap tool that will break while I'm doing the job.
If you can find the tool and its good, do it that way.

The starter is held on by 2 bolts and 2 mollys. (one each top and bottom)
It can be removed from under the hood after removing the battery tray.
I had looped a wire around the solenoid and hung it from the cold start module. (No disconnecting wiring)
Thru the same space I inserted my crowbar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just snatched up a used Rotunda flywheel tool for our engines on ebay. It was $35.99 shipped to my door. It is the same part number that is referenced in my service manual. So, I probably won't get it for the weekend, but I will at least get the right tool. Thanks guys.

QUOTE (Whitespys @ May 25 2010, 11:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806938
QUOTE (clydesdale @ May 25 2010, 10:10 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=806925
But wouldn't it be a lot easier to just remove the inspection plate rather than removing the starter?[/b]
Yes it is. But not by much.
Also, the special tool that is used when you use the inspection plate is hard to find by me.
And ordering it online, I always fear I'll get some flimsy cheap tool that will break while I'm doing the job.
If you can find the tool and its good, do it that way.

The starter is held on by 2 bolts and 2 mollys. (one each top and bottom)
It can be removed from under the hood after removing the battery tray.
I had looped a wire around the solenoid and hung it from the cold start module. (No disconnecting wiring)
Thru the same space I inserted my crowbar.
[/b][/quote]
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I used the proper tool and it made the job very smooth. It required a lot of torque to remove the pulley. Without the tool, I would have been screwed. The car sounds awesomely quiet again.
 

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I use a Ridgid strap wrench to hold the crank pulley. Sold at Home Depot.
As the "family" wrench I've struggled with that problem before doing timing belts.
Easier than pulling the starter or inspection plates IMO
 

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No it's not.

You pull the inspection plate in about 3 seconds.
Slip the correct tool in there
Then unbolt the pulley and you are done.

Mike
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No it's not.

You pull the inspection plate in about 3 seconds.
Slip the correct tool in there
Then unbolt the pulley and you are done.

Mike
B)
Ha yea, that inspection plate is held on with plastic screws. Even the plate itself is plastic.
 

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i had to use a cast iron pipe wedged in to the pully to get mine off with a breaker bar a huge strap wrench will work if you can find one. just make sure there are no burs left from the pipe wrench if reinstalling the pully. that was just to get the main crank shaft bolt out on a aveo and other cars with the single center bolt. i had a instructor tell me to use a breaker bar and a pipe a long one on the car and crank the engine over. but that may help did not try it because if it rotates the wrong way it will smash ratiators etc... the instructor said. i tried the inspection plate method with a pair of vice grips was afraid i would damage the fly wheel. which is a bigger pain in the arse. this is why i used a adjutable pipe wrench. the jaw was parallel to the crank it self not around the rim of the crank pulley like a belt would be. if need be i maybe able to get a pic of a crank pulley the way it was inserted if needed. you will also need a crcnk pulley removel tool to get the pully off once you get the bolt out. any ways sorry for such a long post.
 
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