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The other day, I started my car up and it squeaked really loud, almost threatened to shut down, then started up as usual. Today I just noticed the sound of the inevitable camshaft synchro. I read about the Dorman models and I'm trying to stay away from them. Is there any other brand besides OEM that I could get, and where could I find it? Every site I've looked at only has the Dorman.
I want to get this done ASAP, but I can only work on my car on the weekends seeing as I'm at college and I can't very well do this work in the dorm parking lot. So that means I have to drive home to KC (from Lawrence, 40min drive) to do the work. About how long do I have until it fails completely leaving my engine in one giant oil free block of iron?
 

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Many members say the Cardone brand is good. (But have a fun time finding them)

I say call all around for the best deal on the Motorcraft part. It is worth it.

**It would rarely totally fail and cause major damage. It is irritating more than anything.
 

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<strike>If you go to rockauto.com and search for say a 98' Taurus GL 3.0 182 CID V6 FI (U), then click ignition, then click crankshaft angle sensor, you can buy a cardone part. They give you two options....W/ STEP ON PLUG, and W/OUT STEP ON PLUG. I am not sure which one to use but Someone here should.

</strike>
Also you should be aware that if you decide to order from rockauto, there are 5% off Order codes in the Vendor/Group buy section.
 

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The Rebuilt Cardone units are good. I bought one for my 96 Taurus, and what I found in the box was a brand new Genuine Ford Part with the Ford part number ground off. I believe that Cardone is supplementing it's stock of Rebuilt CPS with new ones when they cannot get enough used cores for rebuilding to keep the inventory stocked.

DO NOT BUY THE NEW CARDONE UNIT. Believe it or Not, the New Cardone units are the actually the crappy Dorman parts. I don't believe the New Cardone CPS include the Lifetime Warranty.

Genuine Ford units are probably the best, but they are the most expensive, with the shortest warranty (i year, Cardone Rebuilt is Lifetime). If you decide on a Genuine Ford CPS, order it from FASTAUTOPARTS, or RockAuto.

Replace the CPS as soon as possible. The Syncroshaft drives the CPS, (depending on the Supplier, is sold with the CPS and also seperately) and the oil pump. When it wears, it does not drive the oil pump properly, and if you continue to drive without replacement, you will ruin your engine due to lack of lubrication.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So it just started making the noise more often. I probably won't be able to replace it for a few hundred miles of highway driving. I have to drive somewhere this weekend and won't be able to get to it before then. Will this cause a big problem?
 

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QUOTE (AgentMull @ Mar 3 2009, 07:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=705126
So it just started making the noise more often. I probably won't be able to replace it for a few hundred miles of highway driving. I have to drive somewhere this weekend and won't be able to get to it before then. Will this cause a big problem?[/b]
Mines been squeaking for about 2 months now. Too broke and too damn cold to change it yet. I know it should not be neglected and I plan to change it in the next 2 weeks or so. You'll most likely be fine for your drive. :thumb:
 

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I'll probably end up changing mine this spring. I dont have a job right now so the problem is convincing my parents to spend $145 on a motorcraft part or take a chance and use a $35 dorman part and ensure my oil pump works.


Also, In my previous post, I said to buy a cardone crankshaft synchronizer so you wouldn't have to buy a dorman. I have since found out that the 2 parts are not interchangeable.
 

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I say just do it in the parking lot, only need a few sockets screw drivers and some pliers. The only uncommon thing is the tiny little bolts holding the sensor on to the sync. Some stuff you can get away with aftermarket stuff, but I would really consider using the motorcraft synchro at a minimum, maybe reuse your sensor and save $25 or so. Better than listening to that horrible squeek and risk a oiling failure, lots more than $150 and a hour of your time to swap motors! Good luck!
 

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Those little tiny bolts are 5.5MM if you are curious. A lot of socket sets don't have the half MM sockets. I know because my friend who has every tool known to man didn't have one in his Craftsman set.
 

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Well a few weeks after this post, the noise has really gone away. Does that mean its not a problem any more, or should I still replace it?
 

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QUOTE (AgentMull @ Jun 10 2009, 07:32 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=731375
Well a few weeks after this post, the noise has really gone away. Does that mean its not a problem any more, or should I still replace it?[/b]
Myself, I would replace it just to try and avert possible issues with it in the future. I bought the motorcraft one on ebay for $40, still in the box. To me, its insurance against having that part fail later and catastrophically -- no matter how unlikely it is.
 

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When the squeek stops, you've worn the synchroshaft into the next step, which is shaft wobble. Soon the SES light is going to turn on, and that means the sensor has definitely been damaged by the shaft wobbling.

The next step after this is lubrication failure, because the oil pump is no-longer being driven properly.

It's your car, so go ahead and keeping driving it without fixing it because you're the one who will be paying the the replacement engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
QUOTE (gohim @ Jun 11 2009, 02:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=731551
When the squeek stops, you've worn the synchroshaft into the next step, which is shaft wobble. Soon the SES light is going to turn on, and that means the sensor has definitely been damaged by the shaft wobbling.

The next step after this is lubrication failure, because the oil pump is no-longer being driven properly.

It's your car, so go ahead and keeping driving it without fixing it because you're the one who will be paying the the replacement engine.[/b]
Well thank you very much for that sarcasm. Because I was totally going to keep doing that anyway. It wasn't like I was just asking a question.


I see this part on ebay and it has me confused: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-99-00-01...sQ5fAccessories
The picture has the motorcraft logo on it, the item specs says its a doorman, and the item description says its an OE part.
 

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QUOTE (AgentMull @ Jun 11 2009, 07:43 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=731568
QUOTE (gohim @ Jun 11 2009, 02:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=731551
When the squeek stops, you've worn the synchroshaft into the next step, which is shaft wobble. Soon the SES light is going to turn on, and that means the sensor has definitely been damaged by the shaft wobbling.

The next step after this is lubrication failure, because the oil pump is no-longer being driven properly.

It's your car, so go ahead and keeping driving it without fixing it because you're the one who will be paying the the replacement engine.[/b]
Well thank you very much for that sarcasm. Because I was totally going to keep doing that anyway. It wasn't like I was just asking a question.


I see this part on ebay and it has me confused: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-99-00-01...sQ5fAccessories
The picture has the motorcraft logo on it, the item specs says its a doorman, and the item description says its an OE part.
[/b][/quote]

It's probably the Dorman (crappy) part. Avoid at all costs.
 

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i thought i had a problem with my sycro but min dosnt sound like that i have a chirp after a shift or i let off the gas i have been gettin the crankshaft sensor code on a day off a day for like 2 months. i really wanna know whats going on with my car im just to broke
 
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