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1993 Ford taurus 3.8L V6 GL 4-door sedan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 93 taurus 3.8L V6 GL 4dr. sedan. Does this car have a camshaft position sensor and if so then where is it located on my car? I can't find one and don't know if it has one or not.
 

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2017 Ford Taurus
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I have a 93 taurus 3.8L V6 GL 4dr. sedan. Does this car have a camshaft position sensor and if so then where is it located on my car? I can't find one and don't know if it has one or not.
Rock auto believes you have one, or at least they will sell you one.
 

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Rock auto believes you have one, or at least they will sell you one.
Mind you, they will also sell me a MAF sensor for my 2017, 3.5 Taurus, which does not have one. So that may not be helpful advice.
 

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No specific cam position sensor like virtually all modern cars.

Cam position is done via what is called "signature PIP" inside the distributor. Distributor has a Hall Effect sensor inside the dist with a vertically slotted steel wheel that passed thru the Hall sensor as the dist shaft rotates. The Hall sensor sends base ignition timing and RPM info to the PCM via the TFI module. Required advance / retard is calculated by the PCM and the timing info is sent to the TFI. TFI then fires the coil.

For batch fire cars, all the slots on the steel wheel are the same width, as batch fire fires all injectors at the same time. For SEFI like your 3.8, one of the slots in the steel wheel is wider than the rest, resulting in a longer pulse being sent to the PCM. This longer pulse corresponds to cyl 1 so the PCM knows when to fire the injectors in the correct sequence.
 
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I have a 93 taurus 3.8L V6 GL 4dr. sedan. Does this car have a camshaft position sensor and if so then where is it located on my car? I can't find one and don't know if it has one or not.
Your car has a distributor. No sensor besides what is inside the dist. Starting in '96 with OBDII dist cannot work. Needs crank sensor, and cam sensor.
The 3.8 Dist is very reliable. Only issue I had was with oil getting up inside the Dist and rotting the rubber parts.
-chart-
 

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1993 Ford taurus 3.8L V6 GL 4-door sedan
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90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your car has a distributor. No sensor besides what is inside the dist. Starting in '96 with OBDII dist cannot work. Needs crank sensor, and cam sensor.
The 3.8 Dist is very reliable. Only issue I had was with oil getting up inside the Dist and rotting the rubber parts.
-chart-
I replaced the distributor and set the timing with a timing light at 10 degree BTDC but it seems the car is not right. How exact do you have to be when setting the timing? This car does not give you a clear window when setting it. You can barely see the timing marks and pointer when setting it. How off can you be? It seems the rpms are higher than normal.
 

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I replaced the distributor and set the timing with a timing light at 10 degree BTDC but it seems the car is not right. How exact do you have to be when setting the timing? This car does not give you a clear window when setting it. You can barely see the timing marks and pointer when setting it. How off can you be? It seems the rpms are higher than normal.
From under the car, use a paint market to mark the spec setting degree. Must be very plain, prefer white or yellow. I would put a circle on the TDC for reference. Remove the "SPOUT" connector to standardize the time for adjusting. Need low light so as to see. Helps to have a second helper to move the dist. Use a mirror on a handle, and a flashlight to align the mirror so as to see the timing mark. Replace the flash light with the timing light while keeping the mirror in alignment. Have helper start the car and adjust the dist.
Tip: mirror image makes logic not work in which way is which. Do not forget to replace the SPOUT. I prefer to put those things in my pocket. Now I know where it is, and will notice later if I forget.
Best of luck.
-chart-
 

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1993 Ford taurus 3.8L V6 GL 4-door sedan
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
From under the car, use a paint market to mark the spec setting degree. Must be very plain, prefer white or yellow. I would put a circle on the TDC for reference. Remove the "SPOUT" connector to standardize the time for adjusting. Need low light so as to see. Helps to have a second helper to move the dist. Use a mirror on a handle, and a flashlight to align the mirror so as to see the timing mark. Replace the flash light with the timing light while keeping the mirror in alignment. Have helper start the car and adjust the dist.
Tip: mirror image makes logic not work in which way is which. Do not forget to replace the SPOUT. I prefer to put those things in my pocket. Now I know where it is, and will notice later if I forget.
Best of luck.
-chart-
What is the correlation between rpm and setting the timing? When you set the timing to the right position should the rpm's be within specs? My idle rpm specs are 550. When I set the timing to the right mark should the idle rpm be within spec of 550? I have a timing light that reads rpm's. Does it matter?
 

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What is the correlation between rpm and setting the timing? When you set the timing to the right position should the rpm's be within specs? My idle rpm specs are 550. When I set the timing to the right mark should the idle rpm be within spec of 550? I have a timing light that reads rpm's. Does it matter?
When you remove the SPOUT connector, that disables all spark advance related to rpm. So rpm during timing does not matter. Adjusting timing will change rpm.
-chart-
 

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1993 Ford taurus 3.8L V6 GL 4-door sedan
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When you remove the SPOUT connector, that disables all spark advance related to rpm. So rpm during timing does not matter. Adjusting timing will change rpm.
-chart-
So after you remove the spout connector and set the timing and plug the spout connector back in then if you set the timing right then idle rpm should be within specs? Which in my case would be 550 rpm. Is that correct?
 
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