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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After 132,000 miles on my 2000 Taurus Duratec, I am going to proactively replace both of these sensors. I'm looking at buying the Wells products at AutoZone. Has anyone had a bad experience with the Wells sensors? Does brand make any difference?
 

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If you are looking for an honest opinion, I would say get Motorcraft if it's not too expensive. The only thing I have bought at Autozone that didnt turn out to be complete **** was oil changes, and a battery.
 

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Waste of money to change them. Crank and cam sensors will very often outlast the car. They have no moving parts, and are basically just a coil of wire wound around a magnet (a variable reluctance sensor).

Wells isnt the best quality stuff out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I ended up buying BWD sensors, with a lifetime warranty, from Advance Auto Parts (40% off online prices).

I've replaced these on other people's cars before, where the situation was harrowing. Two months ago I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor on a 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5L, with only 55,000 miles on it. It left the lady stranded for several days. Texas is so big that cell phones don't always work. Who wants to be stranded in 103 degree weather?

Exposed to heat and vibration, the extremely thin coating of insulation on tightly wound coil wire can break, causing an internal electrical short. Heat can, also, crack the sensor's housing and even cause the coil windings to expand, leading to failure.

The trick is how to replace the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, due to the bracket being in the way. Here's how:

. Disconnect negative battery cable.

. Place front of vehicle on jack stands.

. Remove right front wheel.

. Remove fender liner (front half only).

. Remove alternator splash shield (two 5.5mm screws).

. Remove bottom alternator bolt (13mm) and shield.

. Remove bracket blocking CKP Sensor--remove three 13mm side bolts, loosen both 10mm bottom nuts, and slide bracket out.

. Remove serpentine belt.

. Remove top front alternator bolt (18mm) and rotate alternator clockwise enough to remove CKP Sensor.

. Remove and replace CKP Sensor (8mm).

<><
 

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Good choice! Ive had bad luck with the duralast (wells) dpfe sensors. I always try to source bwd from advance auto or oreilly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After installing the new Camshaft Position Sensor, the engine starts even easier and runs smoother. I was somewhat surprised, since nothing was wrong before.
 

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It is a possibility that you slighty missaligned it and now it has less spark advance at start-up... easy starts but maybe less power on high rev.
Or the old one was really bad (I didn't heard of that on a Duratec).
 

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Two months ago I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor on a 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5L, with only 55,000 miles on it. It left the lady stranded for several days. Texas is so big that cell phones don't always work. Who wants to be stranded in 103 degree weather?
That's very true...on late model Nissans. Ford doesn't really have problems with cam and crank sensors, though. What's done is done, but in the future save your money for Taurus-specific problems like oil leaks, front end parts, intake gaskets, IAC valves, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wells Vehicle Electronics informed me there is a failure issue with the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor on the 2000 Taurus, with the 3.0L Duratec engine. They also advised to stay very tuned to failure signs, for example, misfire, harder to start than normal and intermittent engine cut out.
 

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Interesting.... because my 1996 had no issues with those sensors.
I guess Ford went cheaper and cheaper from there.
 

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Where IS my camshaft sensor? 2004 3.0 Duratec

Can anyone tell me where the camshaft sensor is in my 2004 Taurus, 6cyl, 3.0 DOHC Duratec? I have a repair manual but it only shows the later model.
 

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After installing the new Camshaft Position Sensor, the engine starts even easier and runs smoother. I was somewhat surprised, since nothing was wrong before.
My Duratec idles a little rough, it's not too bad and not enough to illuminate the MIL but I'm thinking of replacing the camshaft sensor since it looks pretty easy. Did you notice a bigger improvement with the camshaft sensor or the crankshaft sensor?
 

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My duratec has had a slight rumble at idle lately. Ive replaced 2 vacuum elbows that were pretty deteriorated and that has seemed to help. Theres another 2 or 3 hoses that are brittle and dry rotted that i will be replacing. So definitely take a look at your hoses and pcv valve
 

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Thank you for the suggestions.

I replaced the PCV valve and associated hoses recently. The elbow I have is the one with the new reinforced design. I checked all the vacuum hoses for any visual damage and I don't see any.

This feels more like a misfire than a vacuum issue. My fuel trims are pretty normal and they increase slightly at higher RPMs, if there was a vacuum leak the fuel trims would most likely decrease at higher RPMs.

I thought I might have a small fuel delivery problem but I get between 38-43 PSI for fuel pressure. I recently replaced the fuel filter and the pressure was around 50 psi, but after awhile it went back to 38-43. Right after changing the filter I had pending P0302 and P0316 codes but I think that was from the initial start up after the filter change and the air that was in the line from that.

I've considered replacing the MAF sensor but I can see the flow rate increase and decrease with the throttle opening and closing plus it gives normal temperature readings.

So, I'm considering replacing the camshaft sensor if it's a timing issue. It seems to be more prevalent under load (A/C compressor on or in drive/reverse vs park/neutral) and only at low RPMs 650-800.
 

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Thank you for the suggestions.

I replaced the PCV valve and associated hoses recently. The elbow I have is the one with the new reinforced design. I checked all the vacuum hoses for any visual damage and I don't see any.

This feels more like a misfire than a vacuum issue. My fuel trims are pretty normal and they increase slightly at higher RPMs, if there was a vacuum leak the fuel trims would most likely decrease at higher RPMs.

I thought I might have a small fuel delivery problem but I get between 38-43 PSI for fuel pressure. I recently replaced the fuel filter and the pressure was around 50 psi, but after awhile it went back to 38-43. Right after changing the filter I had pending P0302 and P0316 codes but I think that was from the initial start up after the filter change and the air that was in the line from that.

I've considered replacing the MAF sensor but I can see the flow rate increase and decrease with the throttle opening and closing plus it gives normal temperature readings.

So, I'm considering replacing the camshaft sensor if it's a timing issue. It seems to be more prevalent under load (A/C compressor on or in drive/reverse vs park/neutral) and only at low RPMs 650-800.


http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227617
 

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Thank you for the suggestions.

I replaced the PCV valve and associated hoses recently. The elbow I have is the one with the new reinforced design. I checked all the vacuum hoses for any visual damage and I don't see any.

This feels more like a misfire than a vacuum issue. My fuel trims are pretty normal and they increase slightly at higher RPMs, if there was a vacuum leak the fuel trims would most likely decrease at higher RPMs.

I thought I might have a small fuel delivery problem but I get between 38-43 PSI for fuel pressure. I recently replaced the fuel filter and the pressure was around 50 psi, but after awhile it went back to 38-43. Right after changing the filter I had pending P0302 and P0316 codes but I think that was from the initial start up after the filter change and the air that was in the line from that.

I've considered replacing the MAF sensor but I can see the flow rate increase and decrease with the throttle opening and closing plus it gives normal temperature readings.

So, I'm considering replacing the camshaft sensor if it's a timing issue. It seems to be more prevalent under load (A/C compressor on or in drive/reverse vs park/neutral) and only at low RPMs 650-800.
I had this kind of issue on '03 DOHC and the pic shows the issue. Second time on this car. Frist time I could not diag it and had Ford garage check it out. Common issue, back bank, 2 plugs. They put on new wires but I knew the plugs had to be bad also so I replaced the plugs even through they were fairly new. Carbon tracking on the plugs on the two they said had bad wires so plug and wire share the damage. So, with new OEM wires and new Autolite plugs, the issue returned in a year. Never use Autolite plugs, some have mis shaped top electrode and it makes poor contact with the wire, and that is the prime source of arcing.

It is not a true misfire and does not mess up the fuel trims. According to Ford, the arcing inside the boot on the back bank messes up the PCM data and causes a gross miss timing issue. It just fires at the wrong time. Similar condition if you have a loose plug or get water in a plug well.

-chart-
 

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I had this kind of issue on '03 DOHC and the pic shows the issue. Second time on this car. Frist time I could not diag it and had Ford garage check it out. Common issue, back bank, 2 plugs. They put on new wires but I knew the plugs had to be bad also so I replaced the plugs even through they were fairly new. Carbon tracking on the plugs on the two they said had bad wires so plug and wire share the damage. So, with new OEM wires and new Autolite plugs, the issue returned in a year. Never use Autolite plugs, some have mis shaped top electrode and it makes poor contact with the wire, and that is the prime source of arcing.

It is not a true misfire and does not mess up the fuel trims. According to Ford, the arcing inside the boot on the back bank messes up the PCM data and causes a gross miss timing issue. It just fires at the wrong time. Similar condition if you have a loose plug or get water in a plug well.

-chart-
Ok, I replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum Iridium plugs and the wires with Bosch wires about 2.5 years ago. Are you saying there is a possibility that they are already bad? I guess I could try changing them, or at least inspecting them.
 
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