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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Taking advantage of the Monroe $150 rebate, I ordered four QuickStruts from Amazon for my bull last week. They arrived yesterday, in time for the long weekend.

So today after lunch I took out my tools and started working. After 4 hours, only the rear is done. More work for tomorrow.

To my disappointment, the new struts only raised the rear about 1/2 inches -- from 26 3/4 to 27 1/4.

When I inspected the old structs, a wave of buyer's remorse set in. After 157K, they looked to be in decent condition. Mind you, being a California car, my bull has never seen salt on the road.

Did I spend half grand on something I didn't really need?
 

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Keep in mind that just because the strut looks ok doesn't really mean that internally it is operating as it should. I usually see struts that are leaking fluids out in vehicles daily around 80 - 100k. So i believe you got more than enough life out of them, time to retire the poor things. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good point both of you.

Before I replaced the "poor thing", I knew they were not too bad. I was actually thinking "preventive" when I decided to change them. I was just surprised to see how good they looked. After more than 10 years and 157K miles, they still looked clean, no rust, no leak.

On the ground, the poor thing is a good two and half inches shorter than the new one, so I guess they are worn after all.
 

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HHU168, maybe you can help me out. I also picked up the Monroe Quick Struts from Amazon for the rear of my 01 sable. I had them in less than 24 hours...Amazon is amazing. :lol2: Anyway, I need help in getting to the top bolts. What all has to be removed to get to the top bolts on the rear struts. Pics or step by step instructions would be helpful.

THANKS!!!! :rolleyes2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
QUOTE (02suprcrue @ May 31 2010, 12:25 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808106
HHU168, maybe you can help me out. I also picked up the Monroe Quick Struts from Amazon for the rear of my 01 sable. I had them in less than 24 hours...Amazon is amazing. :lol2: Anyway, I need help in getting to the top bolts. What all has to be removed to get to the top bolts on the rear struts. Pics or step by step instructions would be helpful.

THANKS!!!! :rolleyes2:[/b]
Sorry I didn't take pictures.

There is a wiki howto article here:

http://www.taurusclub.com/wiki/index.php/S...bly_Replacement

If you have fold down back seats, then:

1. fold down the folding sections of the back seat;
2. you will see four screws behind the folding sections, remove the four screws;
3. remove the seat back or simply push them forward as if you were folding them down. You don't need to remove the seat;
4. remove two Christmas tree type clip on the parcel shelf. Remove parcel shelf carpet or simply push it up;
5. the top mount bolts are under the carpet.
 

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At 157K you needed new struts. Go ahead and do the strut tab mod and you should be satisfied with your ride height.

If you are keeping your car, you should be set for at least a 100K. I know the recommendation is 50K for struts but I always run at least a 100k.

You could do the strut tab mod on the front which will lower it.

Mike
B)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
QUOTE (mwt @ May 31 2010, 03:23 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808134
At 157K you needed new struts. Go ahead and do the strut tab mod and you should be satisfied with your ride height.

If you are keeping your car, you should be set for at least a 100K. I know the recommendation is 50K for struts but I always run at least a 100k.

You could do the strut tab mod on the front which will lower it.

Mike
B)[/b]
I think you are right, I needed new struts.

I was going to replace the front struts yesterday, but alas, the pair of 171615 are still on my garage floor. The wife wanted me to have some "quality time" -- as if working on the car isn't -- for the long weekend so I guess the front just has to wait another week.

I am still not sure about the tab mod though. I have read here some liked the "SUV-like" ride height the front QuickStruts are supposed to provide. I guess I will put them on as is and see how it goes. If I don't like the ride I can always do the mod later.

By the way, I cannot see any pics on any of the strut tab mod threads here or at the SHO forum. Perhaps you could point me to the right direction where I can see some pics?
 

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I cant find pics... but It sits up a bit higher where the ass isn't sagging and looking like your tire is being eaten by suspension components. And it makes the Taurus look normal.
 

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If you think the car sits too low, cut the tab that the pinch bolt goes through and adjust it to the ride height you want.

If you think it sits too low, the fix is easy and quick.

Mike
B)
 

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Rear Strut Replacement

Well the I got the right side completed with little trouble, good thing since the right side was the one that was bad.

The left side is a whole other story. The Pinch bolt broke leaving the entire threaded part in the housing.:angry: I've been trying for 2 days to get the bolt out with no luck. Heat, PB Blaster, ez out nothing has worked. I was able to drill completely thru the bolt with 1/4 in drill and still can't get the damn thing to budge.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to get it out and the correct name of the housing the pinch bolt, bolts into. My option at this time is to have it towed to a shop to get torch on it and as a insurance policy get a new or used housing to complete the job.

HHU168 did you buy new pinch bolts with the quick struts; if so does the new bolts have some type of locktite already on them?

Thanks is advance for your suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
did you buy new pinch bolts with the quick struts; if so does the new bolts have some type of locktite already on them?
I had no trouble getting any of the struts out. I live in California and there is no rust to speak of on the suspension components. I simply PB blastered the bolts/nuts and they came out easy. I am pretty sure I probably did not even need PB blaster.

And no I did not buy new pinch bolts. I reused them as they are in great shape.
 

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My 2 cents on a strut change

After reading about changing struts on several sites including this one I decided that I could do this with my knowledge of cars and having done some of my maintenance work myself (spark plugs, transmission filter, etc). Ordered the struts from Amazon, without springs so I got a spring compressor kit, after all I am saving money here I thought why not go all the way. Used penetrating oil on thursday for work to begin on fri night. Decided to start on the left rear because I thought it was the worst one. Removed rear seat and all the necessary trim to get to the strut mounting nuts, went ok. Removed bolt for brake line and began to loosen pinch bolt with a 14 inch breaker bar. It turned a little which was encouraging. after about an eigth inch it started creaking so out came more penetrating oil. Starting having to move the bolt forward and backward, more oil. More creaking , more oil. After I thought I was making progress, SNAP! Broken bolt! Freaking Out!. After some staring at the the whole mess like it would fix itself I decided to go to the right rear. Same procedure on the right. This bolt came out without breaking but it looked terrible, threads were flat. Srut is out after some time later (too long). Springs are compressed, cant get the top nut loose. Did not realize how much it would be rusted (Indiana salt roads i guess). OK next day (sat.), borrow a cut off wheel and grinder and git r done. Oh did I mention i cannot get the sway bar bolts to go all the way back in the right or left side, acts like the sway bar is in a bind even while using a jack to raise the suspension. ok leave them loose for now. Go to the right front, loosen all required bolts and remove all required hardware. This is going better! Hit a snag when i try to get the strut out. It is loose in the pinch area but I dont have enough room to get it all the way out at the bottom after I hit with rubber mallet, lower control arm kind of bounces. So I hold onto the hub to get a better hit on the lower caliper mounting ear. Instead I hit my pinky and say ouch. I look at my pinky, already bleeding alot. Hmmmm, I dab at it with a rag. Oh Oh, this looks bad, I dont see a finger nail and the end is split. Go tell my wife we have to make a trip to emergency room. Four hours later after the emergency room trip I return home at 6:30 with stitches, smashed pinky bone on the end and splints and bandages and decided my night was done. Next day (sun.) I finally get the strut out and the new one in. Finger hurts, but oh well cant leave the car on jack stands. Start on the left front. Going ok, until I get to the bottom pinch bolt. Nut comes off with no problem, but the bolt will not budge, use heat, oil, heat, more oil. Try taking pressure off the assembly, with a jack, no go. More heat, oil. Nothing. I say ok I am defeated. This is going to have to go to someone else. Quite depressing, money saved for tires is now gone with the emergency room and a mechanics bill. Note to self, stay away from rusty suspension work. Picture taken a day later. Picture says attached thumbnails, it should say detached pinky nail!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sorry to hear that. Guess I am lucky to be in California.

Did you lower the subframe for the front strut job?
 
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