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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thread title says it all basically. Looking for the most cost effective way to lessen body roll. also wouldnt mind stiffer suspension. Lemme know what you can come up with toying with either Upgraded strut tower bars or if I decide to burn a hole in my bank account getting SARC Struts and attempting to install them myself. Which is more cost effective? Other options are welcome but try to keep it in the 2-3 hundred dollar range.
 

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Does your 99 tec have a rear sway bar? It depends on the build date. Early 99s had them, late ones didnt. Ive got 1 with, 1 w/o. They can be added. Some members have added strut tower bars, also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hm not sure... ill take a look next time im working on it.... but why would they change the design halfway through a model year?
 

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$$$! My early-build 99tec has the rear sway bar, dual exhaust and od off button on the shifter. My late-build 99tec has none of these things.
 

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During the 1999 year production, Ford turned more than half the machines off that built the Taurus. Nobody caught it because they were told "they're just rental cars".
 

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24mm/26mm front/rear sway bars from a Gen 1 SHO make a huge improvement. I just installed them on my 2000 and the difference in body roll is substantial. Using the 24mm/23mm set from a Gen 2 SHO is also a solid improvement and a little less aggressive in the rear. When pushed past the limit my car with the 26mm rear bar will actually over-steer now. The balance is perfect for my taste, but my performance driving experience is mainly in RWD vehicles. If you're used to a car that under-steers at the limit you may find yourself in trouble if you don't know how to handle it when the back end starts coming around. Replacing the old sway bar end-links with Moog parts also helps a lot.

The SARCs are a waste of money, and you're looking at almost $1,100 for a new set. Without the controller they stay stiff all of the time, and by stiff I don't mean sporty. We're talking bone jarring, rattle your fillings out stiff. Swapping in the controller is not an easy task. You'd need the ZF rack from an SHO as well as a lot of wiring. In my opinion, it's just not worth the cost and effort for the improvement. A strut tower brace is not much use on the Gen 3/Gen 4 cars either, the body is already very stiff.

I strongly recommend the sway bars with new end-links and bushings. If you score the bars from a junk yard you could come in well under budget. SHO Source also has them for $75 each. Throw in another $80 for good end-links and $35 for poly sway bar bushings. You will have a car that handles dramatically better and still rides like stock in a straight line for under $300.
 
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