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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I was on my way to my god son's baptism today when the car decided to quit half way there. I was driving at 100km/h with cruise set. 45 minutes into the trip I noticed car loosing speed. I thought I may have somehow touched the cancel function on the wheel. I stepped on the throttle but it was to the floor, from the cruise. I looked at the gauges nothing was lit up, I was showing 2000rpm. I turned the stereo off and you could tell the engine was not running on it's own, the engine was turning because the car was traveling at highway speeds still. As I was slowing down to pull over the tach then dropped to 0 when I slowed to around 50km/h. Then all the dash lights came on. Anyhew, I tried re-starting, but it basically just cranked. It did try to fire up by sputtering, but now it just cranks over. I listened for the fuel pump while the wife turned the key and even tried cranking, nothing. Once I got the car home on a tow truck, I turned the key to the on position, no fuel pump, but the cooling fans are on slow speed running. Not the engine has been sitting off for over 2 hours. The engine temp is just above the "C" mark. The fans were coming on, when on the side of the road, but I put that off to the engine being hot then. But it's not now, so what gives there. And it's not the A/C, that's was off when we broke down and still off. I am thinking possibly the IIRC, but I was wondering if anyone may know themselves. I haven't looked at it yet, and won't get time to for a while. I need to pay off a few things before I can, starting with the $197.00 tow bill I dished out to get home.

Thanks.
 

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What, no AAA in Canada?

I know the fuel pump is pretty loud in my car when turning the key to on, so if you can't hear it, then that's probably an issue. Start by checking the fuse-engine comp. fuse10 20amp, then check the inertia switch. If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge it should have 37-43psi key on engine off.

Check for power at the pink and black wire coming out of the inertia switch when the key is turned to on. If the voltage goes up, pretty sure it should be 12volts, but the pump doesn't spin, then replace the pump.
 

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Did you try jumper cables from the tow truck, or other vehicle since you got it home? Check fuses related to the charging system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Charging system is fine. I have two batteries in the car, one under hood and in trunk, not to mention 5 minutes before this happened my volt gauge was showing 14.5V. Car cranks over strong and fast. I just want to know what the cause of the cooling fans coming on when then engine is cold and HVAC turned off.
 

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Not sure if this holds on OBDII Ford PCMs or not, but back in the "old days" of Ford EEC IV / OBDI, fans running continuously was an almost certain sign of internal PCM problems (fried PCM).
 

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mite be the fuel pump but try a fuel filter first got to replace the filter if you do the pump or test the presure. some times it is a simple fix like the filter for 15 bucks also how the spark on the engine is it still good and how is the engine heat before you pulled over high, low, mid ,etc... if the temp was high i would buy a compression gague and see if the head cracked. if not do not worry about this you only need a few thing to get the motor running and keep it running like compresion, spark ,air , fuel ,and timeing. with out those the car will not start or run. easy spark tester is at night try a philps screw driver in one of the spark plug wires to ground just do not tuch the metal screw driver blade when cranking the engine check for blue/ white spark not red or orange. any ways keep us up to date as thing go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Temp was fine just before it quitting. The gauge was showing right in the middle as it always does. As for spark, I haven't checked physically, but am certain I have spark as when I first cranked it over, it did attempt to fire up. It sputtered and kicked while cranking, just like it was starving for fuel. I am going to check fuel pressure this weekend, but by not hearing the fuel pump running I can guess the results. Also I am going to get a lend of a code reader, just to verify if there is any codes at all. There was no service light on, but I want to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
K slight update. During lunch today I went home and somewhat looked at the car. Tried using a code reader, no good. Kept getting "ERROR" when trying to read codes, fans run as I mentioned, and I found out that the fuel pump is running. I could hear the pump when I pulled the fuse for the fans and it was then quiet enough to hear. Problem is the pump doesn't shut off. I left the key ahead for about a minute and the pump was running steady. And I pulled the fuses for the ignition, computer, anything related and they all checked out good.
 

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I would go ahead and pull the fuel filter. It's easy ,cheap and free.

Have you ran on empty lately?

Mike
B)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Vehicle has never run below 1/4 tank. I always fill it up between 1/2 and 1/4 tank left. Fuel filter is only 2 years old with 25,000km on it at the most. Probably wouldn't hurt to look at, but with the other symptoms I believe it's something more then a fuel filter.
 

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QUOTE (the_intimidator_02 @ May 31 2010, 10:52 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808092
K slight update. During lunch today I went home and somewhat looked at the car. Tried using a code reader, no good. Kept getting "ERROR" when trying to read codes, fans run as I mentioned, and I found out that the fuel pump is running. I could hear the pump when I pulled the fuse for the fans and it was then quiet enough to hear. Problem is the pump doesn't shut off. I left the key ahead for about a minute and the pump was running steady. And I pulled the fuses for the ignition, computer, anything related and they all checked out good.[/b]

unless the pcm power relay is stuck on i think the fans and the fuel pump are ran threw it but would have to read the manual to be sure of it. do some checking i hear they fail now and then.
 

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if you got a haynes manual look on page 12-23 of the chassis wiring. there is a relay called constant control relay module it boxes in the fuel pump relay and the eeec relay meaning they are connected. this relay supplies power to the fuel pump and the engine coolant temp sensor and is power to the pcm vpower pin on page 12-25. most like is a short or some thing to do with this constant control relay module so some wiring and testing is needed there any ways good luck hope this helps. keep us posted
 

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QUOTE (the_intimidator_02 @ May 31 2010, 10:52 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808092
K slight update. During lunch today I went home and somewhat looked at the car. Tried using a code reader, no good. Kept getting "ERROR" when trying to read codes, fans run as I mentioned, and I found out that the fuel pump is running. I could hear the pump when I pulled the fuse for the fans and it was then quiet enough to hear. Problem is the pump doesn't shut off. I left the key ahead for about a minute and the pump was running steady. And I pulled the fuses for the ignition, computer, anything related and they all checked out good.[/b]

the fuel pump should shut off after 2 seconds after the key is turned on. which is a sign the constant control relay module is bad or the pcm that why i caught that the constant control relay module may be bad. there is a internal short circuit when it goes bad some time it will feed all the circuits such as vpower for the pcm and cooling fans and fuel pump. a little testing of it mite show it's bad or the pcm is bad.
 

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QUOTE (sadistic @ Jun 1 2010, 02:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808422
QUOTE (the_intimidator_02 @ May 31 2010, 10:52 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808092
K slight update. During lunch today I went home and somewhat looked at the car. Tried using a code reader, no good. Kept getting "ERROR" when trying to read codes, fans run as I mentioned, and I found out that the fuel pump is running. I could hear the pump when I pulled the fuse for the fans and it was then quiet enough to hear. Problem is the pump doesn't shut off. I left the key ahead for about a minute and the pump was running steady. And I pulled the fuses for the ignition, computer, anything related and they all checked out good.[/b]

the fuel pump should shut off after 2 seconds after the key is turned on. which is a sign the constant control relay module is bad or the pcm that why i caught that the constant control relay module may be bad. there is a internal short circuit when it goes bad some time it will feed all the circuits such as power for the pcm and cooling fans and fuel pump. a little testing of it mite show it's bad or the pcm is bad.
[/b][/quote]

Do the stupid check things first
clean ALL the under hood motor to chassis grounds. especially around the CCRM
pay close attention to the strapped one by the PCM. Remove C130- connector above the trannie
with a 10MM wrench, look at it and re install.

You might get lucky, but i am smelling bad PCM, CCRM or some strange wiring issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
^^^I am as well. Not really looking forward to this repair. I've spent $1400 into this car since last october. I've had a number of people tell me I should look at getting another car for the amount of problem in the last 6 months, but the problem is that the car is in too good of shape to just junk it, I can't get the the money back that I have put into it, plus I like the car and I know the history on it. Anyway this weekend, I'll be going carefully over my wiring and then I'm going to look at the CCRM and hope it's not the PCM. Either way it's not cheap....Murphy's law is hard at work
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Does anyone have specifications on the harness to the CCRM. I want to check to see what I am getting to the CCRM. I have the diagram for the CCRM itself.
 
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